Red_Nic Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 and Poorboys is sold in sizes 16oz, 32oz, 128oz. Can anyone give me an idea how many car cleans these sizes do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baidan Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 and Poorboys is sold in sizes 16oz, 32oz, 128oz. Can anyone give me an idea how many car cleans these sizes do? Hi Red, going to be busy weekend then lol.. I washed and clayed mine last weekend (first time, suprised how much crap comes off) then started to use my new polisher/ toy, did my lads car first gave up gave up half way through on mine... bloody knackering.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 3. Remove tar spots and bug splats. Just in case you weren't aware, using a tar remover will also strip your wax/sealant, so whenever you de-tar you need to reapply your wax/sealant on those areas afterwards. do I need to shampoo wash again after clay or tar removal? You can but it's not essential providing you give the car a thorough rinse after either. 5. Polish (abrasive) if necessary for swirl removal. If not, use Glaze (non abrasive) I'd like to use Poorboys glaze but my car is Sunset/Orange so do I use Poorboys Black hole(for dark colours) or white diamond(for light colours)? Either would work, arguably equally as well depending on who you ask, but I'd opt for Black Hole myself. 6. Then use a Sealant or a Wax. I thought it was either or, but some use both? can you explain? I was going to use Poorboys Ex-P Sealant (for metallic colours). But i'm confused, do I need to wax after that? Wax on top isn't essential, no, but you can with EX-P. EX-P will provide good protection by itself, but by adding a wax on top you can alter the final look and obviously it's another layer of added protection. I have 5L of wash n wax (free and large quantity available) (how can it wash AND wax?) which I was going to use as the shampoo step. or is this combined product poor for the shampoo step? do I need a single shampoo product? If it cleans well enough, it's fine. Depending on what it is, it'll offer the benefit of topping up the protection of the sealant/wax during maintenance washes. The downside is that the cheaper, less engineered 'wash & wax' products tend to leave a streaky finish if you're not careful with them. In the context of your 6 steps above, both the tar remover and clay will remove the "wax" left by the shampoo anyway so it won't affect 5 or 6. and Poorboys is sold in sizes 16oz, 32oz, 128oz. Can anyone give me an idea how many car cleans these sizes do? The 16oz (500ml) bottle of EX-P should do a Z about 20 times as a (really) rough guestimate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Ah, just the reply i needed. Thank you very much ilogikal1. So after i have glazed and waxed the whole car, for example, then i get a bird poo splat. How do i remove it, what product do i use? because i'm thinking if i clean the localised poo off, i'm gonna ruin my wax layer and go right down to the shampoo stage.? Do i need to repeat all 6/7 steps on that localised area to 'repair' the bird poo area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) Ah, just the reply i needed. Thank you very much ilogikal1. So after i have glazed and waxed the whole car, for example, then i get a bird poo splat. How do i remove it, what product do i use? because i'm thinking if i clean the localised poo off, i'm gonna ruin my wax layer and go right down to the shampoo stage.? Do i need to repeat all 6/7 steps on that localised area to 'repair' the bird poo area? Easiest way is a warm (not hot) damp microfibre towel sat on offending gift for a few minutes to soften, it should then wipe up easily enough. Any kind of "wax safe" all purpose cleaner if it's a really stubborn one, but still do the warm cloth first to soften. Obviously do your best not to spread it around If you ware worried you can always mist some quick detailer over the area to make sure there's some protection left, and buff with a fresh cloth. Anything is better than leaving it there, a little spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of water and all purpose cleaner in the boot is always super useful. Remember to wash your hands Edited July 26, 2014 by SuperStu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 ah... so "quick detailer" is a very mild cleaner that you can use that wont take the wax layer off? I havent bought any quick detailer? what is quick detailer made from? is it necessary to buy a bottle or can i make my own with 50:50 water:all purpose cleaner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 ah... so "quick detailer" is a very mild cleaner that you can use that wont take the wax layer off? I havent bought any quick detailer? what is quick detailer made from? is it necessary to buy a bottle or can i make my own with 50:50 water:all purpose cleaner? Generally speaking quick detailer is just a spray layer of protection and can also be used for dust removal. I don't use it for a waterless wash, as I don't like the idea of that. I use it for the whole car after a quick wash, instead of the times when I do a proper wash and a wax. Some quick detailers are more focused on being cleansers but what I was saying above is; I you have some and want to top up protection, use it AFTER you're cleaned up the gift and the paint is clear, as it will leave a layer of protection on the cleaned area in case you were a bit aggressive in the clean up and lifted any wax. It's not necessary to have a quick detailer, but they are handy. You can spend loads or a little. I'm currently trying eco touch quick wax, but there's loads to try and you don't have to blow the budget either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 6. Then use a Sealant or a Wax. I thought it was either or, but some use both? can you explain? I was going to use Poorboys Ex-P Sealant (for metallic colours). But i'm confused, do I need to wax after that? Wax on top isn't essential, no, but you can with EX-P. EX-P will provide good protection by itself, but by adding a wax on top you can alter the final look and obviously it's another layer of added protection. So, if i've polished, and then glazed (with poorboys black hole), which next 1 step would you do? sealant (poorboys EX-P) or wax (poorboys natty paste) ? and why? because i'm not sure i NEED to do both, but i understand i need to put something over the glaze to keep it on. and how would i decide between Natty Paste Wax, Natty Paste Wax Blue, and Natty Paste Wax Red? for my Sunset Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 You could do both happily. Sealant to seal the paint, then a wax to give the shine. I usually only do one or other though due to the law of diminishing returns, and I prefer the finish of a good wax over the length of protection of a good sealant. Personally I would use some DJSN on your car, but out of the ones you mention the Red would be my choice. Easier to work with, and a good finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscopervis Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 I would experiment with both and see which you prefer. If you do both, sealant first, then leave it a week, then add wax after the next wash. The wash wax product doesn't wax the car but is meant to try and top up any protection there may be. I don't like these products usually as they can interfere with the properties of the last stage product (wax or sealant) on the car and make the water behaviour or shine actually worse. Don't worry too much about colour specific waxes, 97% of the final look comes from the polishing and prep stages. The wax is for protection of those stages and colour charging is a gimmick. They will all look good, though I suppose the red would be the one that they would suggest for your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 So, if i've polished, and then glazed (with poorboys black hole), which next 1 step would you do? sealant (poorboys EX-P) or wax (poorboys natty paste) ? and why? because i'm not sure i NEED to do both, but i understand i need to put something over the glaze to keep it on. and how would i decide between Natty Paste Wax, Natty Paste Wax Blue, and Natty Paste Wax Red? for my Sunset Z. After the glaze, I'd go for EX-P. You don't need to use a wax at all after that but if you do chose to use both sealant and wax then the sealant should go down first. Why? In this case, EX-P will bond better to Black Hole than it will to the wax, so the protection will last longer. Just to confuse matters, you could go straight to a wax over the glaze and not use EX-P at all (but there's no real benefit to that in this case) or you could use both EX-P and then top-up the protection with a wax as well - I'm currently running a long term test of LSP's on my car which includes a panel of EX-P with Natty's wax on top to compare the durability to just the wax on it's own (although I haven't done EX-P on it's own). As to which Natty's wax to go for, Red gives a nice deep wetlook finish, White is a slightly more glassy finish and Blue sits between the two. To be honest, there's not a huge amount between them but I have some places add a premium to the price of Red. I would recommend Blue... for absolutely no real reason at all actually All three are just as easy to use as the others so you can't really go wrong with any of them. I will note both Blue and Red smell lovely, White's a bit 'meh' on smell though. As noted above, colour charged waxes are very much a gimmick, unless you're adding multiple layers (4+ I think it was) to a white car, you'll never notice any difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 cool ok. thanks for that info. I've read on here that some people leave the wax on for an hour or more, to "soak" in, before they buff it off. I have noticed that once you let wax dry on a panel, it is much harder to buff off. Is leaving products on for over an hour something that you would recommend to get the most out of a product? and which products would you leave on for an hour compared to buffing off after 2minutes? so I now understand that polish is the most important prep stage. can u point me in the direction of reviews of best polishes to use. (I have minor swirl scratches in places) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 All waxes are different, some need buffing after 30 seconds others you can leave for days before buffing (although I'm not sure why you would, but the possibility is there). The instructions will often give a fair indication of curing time but I'm not aware of any that advise an hour before buffing (often it's advised to leave between 1-24 hours between layers though), but as a general rule the "swipe test" will indicate when a wax is ready to be buffed - the swipe test is simply run your finger over a small section of the cured wax, if it comes away cleanly then it's ready to buff off but if just smears or spreads more then it needs longer. If you're sticking with Poorboys Natty's waxes and working in the shade, you can apply to the whole car then go back to the start and buff. If you're working in the sun though I'd say only do one or two panels at a time - you want to avoid the wax baking on because then it's gong to be a nightmare to remove. Natty's waxes are actually very forgiving though, it suggests leaving it 5-10 minutes before buffing but it can be left much longer in the shade. EX-P is slightly different in that it needs to be left for 15-30 minutes buffing, but again in the shade it can be left for much longer. There's no real benefit to leaving it any longer though (other than potentially being more convenient I suppose). As for polishes, if you're working by hand you'll only get limited results, however by Black Hole you'll be filling a lot of the swirls anyway. I'd recommend Menz 203S &/or 85RE (either by hand or machine) with a suitable pad (either tangerine or crimson depending on how much correction is needed). GTechniq P1 is also good by hand. This is a good read if you have the time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Red_Nic generally speaking, it's easy to get caught up in the 'do this' and 'do that' but don't worry too much at first, once you've done it a couple of times you'll get a feel for the products and you'll quickly pick up your own ideas. If you're applying by hand you can't really do anything too wrong, so get stuck in and see what suits you're technique and the conditions you have for detailing. You'll learn fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little74 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I just went and picked up the mags Claybar kit and 3 stage polish time to get it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little74 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Claybared the bonnet lol but now think it's going to rain 😢 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraziekatz1 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 It's just heavy cloud...it'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little74 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Well fingers crossed it holds off I will only do the bonnet today as it is the roughest part by far. 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraziekatz1 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 How does it look? I have the Meguiars Clay bar but not used it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little74 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Just after the bar I was shocked 😃 that was rough as sand paper now she smooth how can I put pic up of my phone? Having a tea the stage one on the go 😃 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraziekatz1 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Just after the bar I was shocked í ½í¸ƒ that was rough as sand paper now she smooth how can I put pic up of my phone? Having a tea the stage one on the go í ½í¸ƒ Have no idea what you just said there .......but I'm definitely not the person to advise on posting photos lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little74 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Haha I was trying to say after I used the clay bar it was so much better the bonnet was so rough but now super smooth 😃 Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banz Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I'm a bit stuck on the 3 stages of paint cleaner, polish and wax. Paint cleaner- apply and remove immediately with microfibre towel Polish- some video guide says to leave it until it hazes and then wipe off. Other video says to keep polishing it with a polish pad until it disappears. Then wipe it off with microfibre towel. Wax- leave it on for an hour or depending on the temperature / type of wax. Presumably you also don't apply too much force when you're polishing / waxing? I tend to have to scrub it really hard with a microfiber towel afterwards to get the residue off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 You're leaving it on too long in the case of the wax, and not working it hard enough in the case of the polish. Waxing requires no force, polishing requires some force but I'm not talking about putting your entire weight behind it. That Megs polish really is crap though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banz Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Yeah I saw you mentioning how crap they are on many threads If I can get it right, and not give up on making my car shine then I'll try a different product next time. I bought it at halfords 3 for 2. £20 for all 3 bottles isn't so bad! My friend tried the polish and he said it was amazing compared to his, not sure what he is using. But he only polishes the car. No paint cleaner or wax. His car also looks much better than mine. So I must be doing it wrong. I was applying lots of force on all 3 stages. I was worn out before I even got to polish. But that's also because I work in IT and I don't do much exercise.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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