jim Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I am keen to try out the HDR photo technique, but am not sure which software is best. I use a Mac, and have Photoshop Elements for editing etc. However, PSE does not do HDR, and I don't want to have to go for the full program. I have heard about two software packages which might allow this to be done - Photomatix and Dynamic Photo. Does anyone have any experience with either of these, or are there other packages for the Mac which would fit the bill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Been using CS3 for HDR but ir dosnt seem to give the same effects as Photomatrix. You can download a demo copy to try. You can also get "Plug-Ins" for programs like Photoshop CS3 or Elements like http://www.mediachance.com/plugins/redynamix.html Hope this helps a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chippy Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I always use Photomatix mate. Works a treat but I paid for the full version, but worth the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixy Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Louis is pretty good at this he might be able to help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I always use Photomatix mate. Works a treat but I paid for the full version, but worth the money. Nice Pic Looks like your a bit of a pro (just checked out your website!! Understand where the forum name comes from too!) Any tips to taking great HDR pics? Does ISO, apature, speed, lens choice etc come into play? I understand the basics but cant seem to get it right even with a number of shots at different exposures.... Only really used CS3 for the HDR merge but noticed its set up at 16bit.. do I need to use the 8bit settings? Thanks in advance for your help Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 I always use Photomatix mate. Works a treat but I paid for the full version, but worth the money. Wow - if I could get even close to that I'd be over the moon! Looks like it's Photomatix, then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chippy Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 ISO, aperture, shutter speed etc makes no difference, other than the usual exposure / effects (such as blurry water, etc). The best tip I can give you, is not to go too mad with the spread of your exposures. +1 / -1 will still give you plenty more dynamic range and will be easier to tone map without it looking hideously un-natural. If your not 100% sure of the correct exposure, then shoot a spread of -3 to +3 stops either side of the metered exposure at 1/2 stop gaps, then once you've got home, pick the best exposure as your middle one and then +1 and -1 either side of it. That'll effectively give you + or - 2 stops of safety margin from metered. You can also slip the 1/2 stop images in there as well for good measure and merge the 5 images (-1, -1/2, 0 (0 being correctly metered /exposed) +1/2, +1). Also set your camera onto motordrive (i.e. not one shot) and use the exposure bracketing function and the self timer. You should find that the camera will take the whole series of shots without the need to press the shutter release for each individual shot. Much better than taking each individual shot then adjusting the camera, potentially moving it slightly which will soften the final image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 One thing a lot of people forget about HDR is you are trying to adjust the dynamic range back to what the human eye can see. Camera's dont have as good a dynamic range as the human eye, but using exposure bracketing and HDR you can get that back, but equally, you can go well over it, which is when you get those un-natural looking images. As Chippy says, dont go mad with the spread of the bracketing otherwise the range is too great. You want it to look how it does through the human eye Just a shame I cant do this underwater as you can get some amazing shots down there when diving, but a case for my SLR costs over £1000 then you need lense extension tubes and stobes, far too expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chippy Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Too right....did you have a look at my underwater section Chris? A you say bl**dy expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Too right....did you have a look at my underwater section Chris? A you say bl**dy expensive! Must resist looking while at work...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Many thanks to both of you - all of that is very helpful. Now I just need to find the time to get out on a good day and start taking some suitable shots for treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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