Wasso Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 The next level jets will cost me £12 to upgrade 25bhp or even 50bhp simples. The beauty of NOS. A donor engine will be some time next year although I wouldn't mind having any condition engine to work on the lower the value the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
showtime1 Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 mines nearly 5 yrs old and puts out nearly 300 at rs tuning , give it a good service mate that might help.bring out the hp Greeny: You recently posted your dyno report, I wouldn't be too upset about those figures mate. 5 years old - I guess is the 276bhp model - if you are producing 254 at the fly - surely that's only a loss of 22bhp. You will lose horses for sure - and the exhaust won't deliver a great deal. The torque figures are good - mine was 240 torque before my mods and I'm a 297bhp model, so I'd be pleased with that. It could be worse - some people lose barrell loads of power!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Hey Guys, got my Z on the rollers this week Only achieved 266bhp and mines the 296 bhp GT4 uprev version Mod's HKS panel filter and Japspeed K2 exhaust. Now i know im never going to achieve the manufacturers figures but hoped i would at least get 280 at the fly. They did struggle to keep it steady on the rollers and had to have a couple of attempts at tightening the belts , How much of an effect does the tension of the belts affect the figures ? Car has 32k on the clock , have i a duffer ?! i didnt even make non rev up figures ! I notice from looking at other peoples graphs their runs were done in 4th gear , mine was done in 3rd does it make a difference what gear is selected ? Any comments ? , i'm really sulking now ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 hmmm shouldnt be run on 3rd... might have been slipping mate same thing happened to me once, the cure is to take it to a hub dyno where they take of the wheels and stick the dyno straight onto the hubs How many runs did they run? You could always stick some further N/A mods on it or start saving for a FI kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 they did 3 runs , yeah i have some bits planned for it plenum spacer , lower collector , y pipe and remap but just a bit fed up that with all those bits fitted, going off these dyno figures i will be lucky to get stock bhp figures. I know its not all about pub figures , but the numbers bother me ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though. i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 they did 3 runs , yeah i have some bits planned for it plenum spacer , lower collector , y pipe and remap but just a bit fed up that with all those bits fitted, going off these dyno figures i will be lucky to get stock bhp figures. I know its not all about pub figures , but the numbers bother me ! call one of the tuners on here and they'll assist you with the best mods for your car.... what petrol where you using and I think i heard you'd be better pulling 4 times... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though.i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for sorry mate but why are you selling this utec again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Thanks for the comments guys always run on it on v power as shell is my nearest petrol station yeah still going ahead with the mods, will probably give abbey a shout in next couple of months as they have the hub dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 sorry mate but why are you selling this utec again? Andy, I have have till next summer to keep the zed and replace it with a and IMO the best mods that made the most peformance improvements for track use was the full suspension upgrade and BBK so for my last trackday season next summer i want to get the full bracing kit and upgraded bushes(mine have gone), engine /tranny mounts and possibly an LSD to optimise the handling for this last hourah. I hope to save 15sec off my Ring time and nail an 8mins BTG flat Though the 30+ hp gain i had with the UTEC and mods was nice i am quite happy to sell this and the mods to offset the cost to get the above as it makes no sense to spend more on a car that is going in about 8 months. I have already sold my HFC, MREV 2 and other bits. I will be putting the full catback exhaust system, plenum spacer and some other bits for sale soon when i get them off. My suspension and BBk have already got a firm buyer for next year so there you go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballistic Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though.i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for Hi there mate, (thanks again for the brake thread) Im interested in your statement about the utec unlocking the "true potential" of the car. I have a TT setup and was thinking whether i should take it out and go with uprev or retain it and find an authorised tuner to check it over for me etc. When you say 'unlock true potential' what do you mean exactly, can you quantify that, what exactly would the utec have over the uprev? Please dont take offence as thats not my intention, just trying to learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though.i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for Hi there mate, (thanks again for the brake thread) Im interested in your statement about the utec unlocking the "true potential" of the car. I have a TT setup and was thinking whether i should take it out and go with uprev or retain it and find an authorised tuner to check it over for me etc. If you have the stock APS TT setup and its running fine why would you want to change it? I take it comes with the Unichip piggyback which is fine. It may not have the other capabilities of UTEC or other more sofisticated piggybacks but it works. However if you mean you actually have the UTEC with your APS TT and you want a fine tune because you have made some changes or plan some upgrades or to run more boost etc then any tuner can remap it. The software to do this is a free download from Turbo XS website. What i meant by unlocking the potential of the car is that putting mods without a remap (eg with Uprev or a piggyback eg UTEC or standalone ECu eg haltech for that matter) is that it does not realise the full gains possible because the factory ECU is self-learning and want to always revert to the OEM tune. With a reflash or an EMS you make the gains that these mods bring and safely. Both systems get you the same objectives in the hands of a good tuner. I mapped my UTEC at Thor racing and had no issues. Abbey is the guru with Uprev and tuning in general so i'm sure he can remap any ECU or piggyback if he has the software as the principles are the same. When you say 'unlock true potential' what do you mean exactly, can you quantify that, what exactly would the utec have over the uprev? As above there is no point comparing both systems as both can realise your tuning goals. the choice depends on you, cost, availability and good tuner. There are small differences how with how these system go about doing the job but it is really not that different in the grand scheme of things your gains will also depend on alot of factors and is too long to try and explain. the main thing is if tune correctly the car will be an improvement over standard and still be reliable. Please dont take offence as thats not my intention, just trying to learn no probs mate. i answered you last questions on the BBK btw is that ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though.i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for Hi there mate, (thanks again for the brake thread) Im interested in your statement about the utec unlocking the "true potential" of the car. I have a TT setup and was thinking whether i should take it out and go with uprev or retain it and find an authorised tuner to check it over for me etc. If you have the stock APS TT setup and its running fine why would you want to change it? I take it comes with the Unichip piggyback which is fine. It may not have the other capabilities of UTEC or other more sofisticated piggybacks but it works. However if you mean you actually have the UTEC with your APS TT and you want a fine tune because you have made some changes or plan some upgrades or to run more boost etc then any tuner can remap it. The software to do this is a free download from Turbo XS website. What i meant by unlocking the potential of the car is that putting mods without a remap (eg with Uprev or a piggyback eg UTEC or standalone ECu eg haltech for that matter) is that it does not realise the full gains possible because the factory ECU is self-learning and want to always revert to the OEM tune. With a reflash or an EMS you make the gains that these mods bring and safely. Both systems get you the same objectives in the hands of a good tuner. I mapped my UTEC at Thor racing and had no issues. Abbey is the guru with Uprev and tuning in general so i'm sure he can remap any ECU or piggyback if he has the software as the principles are the same. When you say 'unlock true potential' what do you mean exactly, can you quantify that, what exactly would the utec have over the uprev? As above there is no point comparing both systems as both can realise your tuning goals. the choice depends on you, cost, availability and good tuner. There are small differences how with how these system go about doing the job but it is really not that different in the grand scheme of things your gains will also depend on alot of factors and is too long to try and explain. the main thing is if tune correctly the car will be an improvement over standard and still be reliable. Please dont take offence as thats not my intention, just trying to learn no probs mate. i answered you last questions on the BBK btw is that ok? I find the discussions on whether a piggyback ECU is of any real benefit very interesting, from research and feedback from Mark at Abbey, it seems that the std ECU cannot be easily fooled, due to it having inbuilt comparator parameters, that should any tampering with the input or output signals via a piggyback, take these signals beyond certain limits, it then knows there is a problem and will either reset, or throw a CEL! Knowing just how some Piggyback ECUs achieve the signal fudging, i find it hard to except just how the Utec can achieve what the others cant? as there are certain way that a smart ECU can be fooled, but the precess is very involved, and unless the Utec can actually fudge lambda feedback, then i fail to see it happening. I was also pretty sure that the std ECU is pretty much the same with its timing feedback monitoring, so just how timing changes of more than + or - 3 degrees can be made without the ECU throwing a wobbler i am not sure, but i would like to find out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted November 7, 2010 Author Share Posted November 7, 2010 Hey Guys, got my Z on the rollers this week Only achieved 266bhp and mines the 296 bhp GT4 uprev version Mod's HKS panel filter and Japspeed K2 exhaust. Now i know im never going to achieve the manufacturers figures but hoped i would at least get 280 at the fly. They did struggle to keep it steady on the rollers and had to have a couple of attempts at tightening the belts , How much of an effect does the tension of the belts affect the figures ? Car has 32k on the clock , have i a duffer ?! i didnt even make non rev up figures ! I notice from looking at other peoples graphs their runs were done in 4th gear , mine was done in 3rd does it make a difference what gear is selected ? Any comments ? , i'm really sulking now ! 2 problems I can see from what you've said. Firstly they did the run in 3rd gear. You are correct in thinking that it should be done in 4th, and doing it in 3rd has let to inconsistent and under read numbers. Secondly, at the top end, your car seems to drop torque quite rapidly, more than I would expect. For a rev up engine, it should be producing power for longer, and if you follow the graph trend up another 500 revs or so, it would have put you in the right power range. This could be because of how they strapped it down, or because they did it in 3rd gear. When in the car, does it pull hard right up the redline? If so, I wouldnt worry about it, its probably dyno operator error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 yep mine pulls hard to the redline , i assumed it was because he let off before the 7000rpm redline ? I think hub dynos are the way to go next time ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballistic Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though.i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for Thanks for your reply mate. I think i misunderstood your initial statement above, I read it to mean that you can remap with Uprev or to unlock the true potential use UTEC, thus i was interested to know why you thought the UTEC would do more to unlock the potential than the uprev. But i think you ment that to unlock the true potential of the car's mod's you need to map it. Which i completely understand. Regarding the brakes i saw your reply, thanks . I also read about them over at the Evo forum, they seem to rate them in general. Sorry to go off topic! To OP: I would agree that that your would be better to run in the gear closest to 1:1 ratio, which i think is 4th or 5th? And a remap will help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though.i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for Thanks for your reply mate. I think i misunderstood your initial statement above, I read it to mean that you can remap with Uprev or to unlock the true potential use UTEC, thus i was interested to know why you thought the UTEC would do more to unlock the potential than the uprev. But i think you ment that to unlock the true potential of the car's mod's you need to map it. Which i completely understand. Regarding the brakes i saw your reply, thanks . I also read about them over at the Evo forum, they seem to rate them in general. Sorry to go off topic! To OP: I would agree that that your would be better to run in the gear closest to 1:1 ratio, which i think is 4th or 5th? And a remap will help too. Dude are you still around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhys1344 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 what kind of output can I expect from a 2002 import model. Completely standard engine with 61,000 miles??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 what kind of output can I expect from a 2002 import model. Completely standard engine with 61,000 miles??? 265hp that's what I got with mine although end can's where ZEES (not sure they did any difference), thats not on a hub dyno where it probably will be lower. There is an upgrade path to increase breathing mods and then get an uprev tune. Normal for NA applications. If you're planning on getting any decent power (increase) then your best bet is to land around the 380-400 mark with a SC kit (Vortech or HKS) They come up from time to time second hand which is a bargin considering the power increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 From results thread: 2004 UK GT 66k miles Popcharger, plenum spacer, Berk HFCs, Stillen Y-pipe, scorpion exhaust. Dynapack at Abbey Motorsport V-power super unleaded 259.9 HP @ wheels Good gains you got there buddy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoopR Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Does anyone think mine is running a bit rich? I had a broken exhaust for a long time and just had the miltek fitted last week, seemed a lot lower AFR than the other HR that was at the same day and thetranquilbass's graph in the post above mine. viewtopic.php?p=906627#p906627 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 No clue mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jez @ H-Dev Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thats very rich. The 2nd (red) run is richer than I'd run on a high boost turbo engine. A remap would sort it out and probably get you a few bhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoopR Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thanks Jez, will deffo investigate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Model: V35 Skyline 350GT 2005 rev up Mods: 5/16th plenum spacer, Mrev2 plenum, z-tube, hks panel filter, CC lightweight flywheel, AMS Lightweight Pulleys, Earthing kit, Shell v-power nitro+ Dyno: Dastek BHP: 276.5bhp fly, 239.5 whp Torque: 222.8 lbft Im kind of confused, it feels like im really down on power and torque, with standard spec saying I should be 298bhp and 256lbft of torque, does anyone that knows how to read this able to give me some advice? As car only has 30,000 on the clock i wouldnt have expected this much loss. Also all sorts of lights cut in when testing, my slip light and abs light came on. Could i be losing compression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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