H5 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 IMO..... I would get another amp to run the sub. The main thing to remember about sub amp power is it is about consistency of delivery of the power and the amount of control it exercises over the speaker it drives. You are right in your assumption in that it is the way an amp delivers its power rather than the claimed power output or peak power output. People love to quote Jap amp peak power output - it is tosh. Quality amps deliver a steady feed and can cope with changes in draw on the system. For subs, I don't think you an go wrong with JL Audio from budget to world beater. Take a look at how many of the pros use JL Audio subs, it is usually 90%+.... As for rear speakers, you do not need them for a well rounded sound. At best, they help with a bit of rear fill but this can be run off the headunit at very low volume. Where do you stand at a concert? What way do you ears work most efficiently? From what angle is music recorded? All are in front of you and if you want to get the imaging and sound stage you get in your home world you need to spend time setting up the sound to feel as though it is coming from the front. Finally, as for the battery, it is an issue in the Zed - you can get good power distribution blocks that you can run your current power cable to and then distribute it to the amps. I have 850w RMS of ooomph and a good few amps of current draw when mine is on full chat. Ideally a split charge and a couple of yellow top batteries is the way to go but that gets pricey and heavy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 After this discussion on the forum I went home got in the car and had a listen and a play around. I can fully understand what you guys are saying with regard to where you stand at a concert etc and I must admit that if the stero is turned up to its optimum volume and set up at that volume then the front speakers will create enough fill and be perfectly fine. But I have to say that throughout the volume range - especially when starting low - the front speakers on their own do not wrap me in sound and give me the same feel as if I had the rear ones on. With the volume down low and my rear speakers turned off it just sounds pointless, as soon as I fade it back and the rears come in you can instantly hear how much nicer it sounds. Now yes I know I could set the audio up so that the fronts did sound nice at low volumes but then it would just sound poor when I crank it up. And why should I need to set up a great sounding system with front only speakers if my rears are sitting right there ready to be used? Im sure that someone with a top quality system could show me a front only speaker set up that sounds great so Im not disputing that Im just saying that I personally prefer having front and rear speakers so I can adjust the fade for different volumes and styles of music - having that adjustability is essential to me and in my opinion the rear speakers give me a much nicer sound and feel to the music at lower volumes then the fronts on their own do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 At a show or some other meet you are very welcome to listen to mine and see what you think. In fact, anyone is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Thanks for the offer mate, I think I may need to. Thats two of you now that think the fronts are adequate on their own to fill the car so I think I may be missing something You going to be at BBQ, Beer and Banter? Or the Bluewater meet on Sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 More likely to be at BBB, but might also do Bluewater just for the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Finally, as for the battery, it is an issue in the Zed - you can get good power distribution blocks that you can run your current power cable to and then distribute it to the amps. I have 850w RMS of ooomph and a good few amps of current draw when mine is on full chat. Ideally a split charge and a couple of yellow top batteries is the way to go but that gets pricey and heavy! IMO a split charge and extra batteries will do nothing if your car is on. They are only good for when you are sitting around without the engine. Unless you have a bigger alt then you will be giving even less to each battery. The thing that will get you the most gains is, The big 3. Get some 4 or 0awg wire and uprate battery to chassis, alternator to battery and alternator/engine to chassis. That will give you the best gains wise and minimize votlage drop. Also you already have a volt meter so IMO you wont need to upgrade the alt or more batteies unless your your going 2krms+ with class a/b amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Agreed, but deep cycle batteries do help with the general health of the system. The big three do help, especially with older cars. If you think about the current draw on even sub 1k RMS systems against a skinny Jap battery most systems can benefit from the upgrade. And the way the split charge works is to charge the main battery, system battery second, so the alternator isn't generally an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Agreed, but deep cycle batteries do help with the general health of the system. The big three do help, especially with older cars. If you think about the current draw on even sub 1k RMS systems against a skinny Jap battery most systems can benefit from the upgrade. And the way the split charge works is to charge the main battery, system battery second, so the alternator isn't generally an issue. Yeah your right the battery on my car is tiny. whats the biggest battery size you can get or is it a bodge job to fit normal batteries. I agree if your getting a new battery go for a deep cycle. I still personally think split charge is overkill but thats just IMO . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 So do I mate, I didn't have one on my competition car, a single yellow top did the job nicely. I am looking into maybe changing the Zed battery to a yellow top but haven't begun to size it up yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 So do I mate, I didn't have one on my competition car, a single yellow top did the job nicely. I am looking into maybe changing the Zed battery to a yellow top but haven't begun to size it up yet! Let me know when you do please mate as I would really like to know. did you sound deaden it any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 The car as a whole? Just a bit yep! One door..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Just out of interest did you guys run the amp wiring through the front doors to the speakers or did you splice into the original wiring for the door speakers inside the car? Ive heard of both ways so just wondering what other ICE enthusiasts have done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Just out of interest did you guys run the amp wiring through the front doors to the speakers or did you splice into the original wiring for the door speakers inside the car? Ive heard of both ways so just wondering what other ICE enthusiasts have done! I'd have thought that an enthusiast would be using new cable as a good quality speaker cable would be wasted spliced to standard stuff. Cable is only as good as it's weakest part generally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Yeah I thought the same when I was buying all the top quality cable for the car. I asked the guy in the Audio Store how much he would charge me to run it through the doors and he said "we never do that we splice inside the car". Thats why I went away and did it myself but thought Id see on here if that really was an acceptable method. Just goes to show you better ask what your ICE installers are planning to do before you part with your hard earned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Yeah I thought the same when I was buying all the top quality cable for the car. I asked the guy in the Audio Store how much he would charge me to run it through the doors and he said "we never do that we splice inside the car". Thats why I went away and did it myself but thought Id see on here if that really was an acceptable method. Just goes to show you better ask what your ICE installers are planning to do before you part with your hard earned. I could be wrong..... In my house I use quite good speaker cable and I wouldn't splice it to cheapo stuff to squeeze it through something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Id be inclined to agree with you though mate - as you said surely it would only be as good as the weakest point. Be interested to hear any other opinions on this method though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 As you can see from that door pic, the cable is completely re-run in mine. Splicing it adds a connection and introduces a weak link. You're right Bundus, check what you're paying for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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