Husky Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Does anyone know how to or have a guide for changing the drop links? i had a fiddle on search but couldnt see one. cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinmac Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Have a look on 350ztech. I am busy for a little while but will have a look soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Like Martin says may be in here http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Index http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Service:Index Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Quads Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Well I am in the middle of this. I am going to be taking photos when I do it so that will help in the future. Here is a good start 1) Jack up back of car 2) Look under the rear on either side - you should see the drop links (look at the new ones and find something that looks the same) 3) Undo the nuts on them (2 on each side) - Note the upper nuts are not the easiest to get to - a spanner is easier than a socket/ratchet. 4) Put the new ones on and do the nuts up 5) Lower the car Nice and simple BUT if yours are line mine (04 plate) then each day for 2/3 days before hand give them a good covering of WD40. Last night I spent a while trying to undo them, 2 loosened off after a good soaking in WD40 but the upper 2 are still stuck. Will be giving it another go soon hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 +1... or a guide to regreasing! I attempted to take mine off the other day with the car just jacked up - but they wouldn't budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 doesnt seem to be a guide in the tutorial section and i cant download a file that big at work for the servicing section. Right, im going to buy the new ones at the weekend hopefully. if its just a case of some bolts then it should be fine, any torque settings for putting the new ones on? will give the old ones an advanced soaking on sunday methinks! i think its best to properly get the car on axle stands with the wheels chocked as a jack may be unstable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Guys, you usually have to heat up the nuts to get them off. It is much easier this way with no skint knuckles and no swearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunset350z Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Make sure you get new nuts with them, as more than likely you will destroy 1 or 2 of them as i did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Alex - can this be done with a regular blow torch - as i nearly went out and bought one last week for this purpose. Something like on of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BLOW-TORCH-AUTO-PROF-PUSH-BUTTON-2-LIGHT-WITH-GAS-1600c_W0QQitemZ220414465484QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item3351b9d5cc&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Quads Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Take a look in B&Q if you need a blow torch - i got a refil from there and was supprised at how cheap they were - pretty sure cheaper than that ebay link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Yes mate that should do the trick providing it has a decent flame control. On most of these you will find that the flame is rather wide so the applied heat is a tad spread. The idea is to only heat the nut up so that it expands on the bolt so a commercial oxy/accy gun is always best but a regular blow torch should be up to the task. Remember that you will also require a 14mm, 19mm and grips to stop the knuckle from turning when loosening the seized outer nuts. Also please remember and take the necessary fire prevention precautions. Good luck Cheers, Alex. Alex - can this be done with a regular blow torch - as i nearly went out and bought one last week for this purpose. Something like on of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BLOW-TORCH-AUTO-PROF-PUSH-BUTTON-2-LIGHT-WITH-GAS-1600c_W0QQitemZ220414465484QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item3351b9d5cc&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Quads Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Remember that you will also require a 14mm, 19mm and grips to stop the knuckle from turning when loosening the seized outer nuts. The standard joints on mine only require 14mm i.e. two 14mm, one on either side and the one on the ball joint side is part of the threaded bit so as long as you hold it still the ball joint does not move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 i have a powerfull gas soldering iron/blowtorch im sure its like a few thousand degrees with an accurate flame, could do the trick? however really its a choice: wd40 or flame, NOT BOTH! kabooom. im going to crawl under tomorrow i think and take a look what tools i'll need, i just moved house leaving my old toolset and so must buy a whole new set have to know exactly what i need before i start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pimm Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 +1... or a guide to regreasing! I attempted to take mine off the other day with the car just jacked up - but they wouldn't budge. Yes they will Get yourself 2 jacks and they will come off easy... i jacked the car up and yes they are on tight but using the second jack just under were the rear spring sits i found it easier once i took it up a little and they came out with ease. Happy days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 as im doing this at the weekend i was wondering if anyone had any more detailed information such as torque settings of the bolts etc. A workshop manual guide or something of that nature? im sure its probably simple, i just like to be prepared to save me screwing it up (no pun intended) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanski Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Husky as with so much in life - make sure your nuts are good and tight but not so much they break and fall off I use the vein-ometer - i.e if your veins are popping out of your arm - that tight enough! No seriously get a torque wrench if your worried - think the techie american forum has the values listed and some guides on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 you havent seen my forearms if i do that i'll rip half the car off (rock climber) i assume the torque settings 'll be in the service section i cant get into at work. will check at home, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanski Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 you havent seen my forearms if i do that i'll rip half the car off (rock climber)i assume the torque settings 'll be in the service section i cant get into at work. will check at home, cheers Yeah well in that case balance a custard pie on your head while doing it - that will focus your mind and stop the threads getting broken! think there is a section on that forum with all this in yes - I sometimes have problems on that site though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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