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new rear tyres


albo

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Not had the car long and need 2 new rear tyres (had my fun now) :teeth:

 

They have standard potenzas all round atm. I have heard a lot of people not rating them and would like to try a different tyre. I know it's not really advised to run different tyres back and front so does this mean I have to get EXACTLY the same tyre as the front, or is it OK to go for RE050s not RE040s (I understand these are better in the wet) as they're the same compound?

 

Cheers :thumbs:

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Not had the car long and need 2 new rear tyres (had my fun now) :teeth:

 

They have standard potenzas all round atm. I have heard a lot of people not rating them and would like to try a different tyre. I know it's not really advised to run different tyres back and front so does this mean I have to get EXACTLY the same tyre as the front, or is it OK to go for RE050s not RE040s (I understand these are better in the wet) as they're the same compound?

 

Cheers :thumbs:

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I ran 050s at the front and 040s at the rear with no issue until I changed for T1Rs all round

 

It seems to be hit or miss whether or not running different tyres sets the ESP mental or not.

 

Ideally you don't run different tyres and if you do you should budget to changes the other axle just in case the TC goes mad in my opinion.

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I ran 050s at the front and 040s at the rear with no issue until I changed for T1Rs all round

 

It seems to be hit or miss whether or not running different tyres sets the ESP mental or not.

 

Ideally you don't run different tyres and if you do you should budget to changes the other axle just in case the TC goes mad in my opinion.

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different tyres use different compounds, treads, rubber, different strength sidewalls; so will react differently.

 

if you balance your axles with different tyres front and back you'll have 2 different grip characteristics. you run the risk of unnatural sliding. or spinning the car out.

 

theroetically if one tyre needed replacing you should do both on that axle as running different tread depths on the same axle can have the same effect.

 

if you want to do all 4 but money is an object then you have several options.

 

neil on the forum sells tyres and offers a range but most interestingly is a budget tyre (can't remember the brand for about £60 a corner.

 

alot of users on here run a mid range tyre like the falken 452s or the toyo proxies i think your looking at around £400-£450 for all 4.

 

if you want to head into ultra high performance tyres some members are running Vredestein ultrac ssantas meant to be very good (got rated second place by evo mag, first place was the Michelin pilot sports i think) £510

 

if money is more available then the tyre of choice is apparently the michelin pilot sport 2. but i think your looking at about £750

 

hope that helps

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different tyres use different compounds, treads, rubber, different strength sidewalls; so will react differently.

 

if you balance your axles with different tyres front and back you'll have 2 different grip characteristics. you run the risk of unnatural sliding. or spinning the car out.

 

theroetically if one tyre needed replacing you should do both on that axle as running different tread depths on the same axle can have the same effect.

 

if you want to do all 4 but money is an object then you have several options.

 

neil on the forum sells tyres and offers a range but most interestingly is a budget tyre (can't remember the brand for about £60 a corner.

 

alot of users on here run a mid range tyre like the falken 452s or the toyo proxies i think your looking at around £400-£450 for all 4.

 

if you want to head into ultra high performance tyres some members are running Vredestein ultrac ssantas meant to be very good (got rated second place by evo mag, first place was the Michelin pilot sports i think) £510

 

if money is more available then the tyre of choice is apparently the michelin pilot sport 2. but i think your looking at about £750

 

hope that helps

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What rtbiscuit says is theoretically correct. However most of us are governed by the depth of our pockets as to how many and which tyre we purchase. If money is no object to you then buy a set of 'posh' ones. If you have to think about it then go for the Falkens or if necessary buy the budget tyre.

 

There aren't many places on todays roads where you will come unstuck if you are driving properly but if you are going to play about then you should be aware of your tyres performance capabilities.

 

Everyone has their tyre preferences and will advise you accordingly. I should imagine if you search the forum there are pages and pages of such advice. At the end of the day be guided by what is available and how much you want to spend.

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What rtbiscuit says is theoretically correct. However most of us are governed by the depth of our pockets as to how many and which tyre we purchase. If money is no object to you then buy a set of 'posh' ones. If you have to think about it then go for the Falkens or if necessary buy the budget tyre.

 

There aren't many places on todays roads where you will come unstuck if you are driving properly but if you are going to play about then you should be aware of your tyres performance capabilities.

 

Everyone has their tyre preferences and will advise you accordingly. I should imagine if you search the forum there are pages and pages of such advice. At the end of the day be guided by what is available and how much you want to spend.

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IMO tyres are everything where any performance car is concerned. Its an area heavily overlooked on VXRO. with people running Stage 3 cars on Falks or other mid range brands.

 

Stay with Bridgestone or better and keep your car on the top level, regardless of cost!!

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IMO tyres are everything where any performance car is concerned. Its an area heavily overlooked on VXRO. with people running Stage 3 cars on Falks or other mid range brands.

 

Stay with Bridgestone or better and keep your car on the top level, regardless of cost!!

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Coming from PS2s on my Rays to Falkens on my Rotas, I cant say there is a massive difference in dry grip levels. Sure the PS2s are quieter, last longer and have more wet weather grip and behave a little better on the limit, but for me Falks win every time for the cost. I think for most peoples driving PS2s are overkill, as if you need that extra advantage on the road, you are driving far to quickly.

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Coming from PS2s on my Rays to Falkens on my Rotas, I cant say there is a massive difference in dry grip levels. Sure the PS2s are quieter, last longer and have more wet weather grip and behave a little better on the limit, but for me Falks win every time for the cost. I think for most peoples driving PS2s are overkill, as if you need that extra advantage on the road, you are driving far to quickly.

 

That's a nice point of view you have there. Yes PS2's are a bit overkill BUT I'm one of these people who thinks that a classy car like a Zed deserves classy tyres.

 

Theres the pshycology side to it too. If you have the best tyres then you have more confidence in the ability of your car. But then back to your side of the arguement is where can you use such confidence and capability on the road.

 

Each to there own but for me it has to be the best when it comes to tyres. It's the one component/s that sit between your car and going off the black and narrow stuff

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