dwj100uni Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hi all, Some of you helped me yesterday regarding fitting my brake discs, thanks for that! I fitted them all fine using the old pads as I said I was going to, but now it seems that when I brake at any speed over about 60 i get bad wheel wobble and the brake pedal vibrates. Could this be to do with the pads being not new, and if not, what else could it be? Thanks guys, David P.s. It is a non brembo model and they are new EBC Gold slotted and drilled discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 tightened up your wheels correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwj100uni Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hi, I used an electric impact wrench that I always use- could this be a problem? Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Coops Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Always, Always use a tourque wrench! The only reason Impact guns/wrenches have the forwards or 'do up' setting is not for that at all it is for left hand threads. Why would you want to Shock something while doing it up. Best peace of advice is spare the £20-£30 and buy a tourque wrech and as for your porblem, check everything is tightened up correctly inc the little locating screw on the front disc and ensure it is fitting flush, the problem could also be the pads i guess did you reface them before installing them and what discs have you fitted? Coops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 could be your hoses. did you upgrade to braided hoses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwj100uni Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Always, Always use a tourque wrench! The only reason Impact guns/wrenches have the forwards or 'do up' setting is not for that at all it is for left hand threads. Why would you want to Shock something while doing it up. Best peace of advice is spare the £20-£30 and buy a tourque wrech and as for your porblem, check everything is tightened up correctly inc the little locating screw on the front disc and ensure it is fitting flush, the problem could also be the pads i guess did you reface them before installing them and what discs have you fitted? Coops Hi- OK, right Ill buy a tourque wrench, but for now Ill go to tyre place across the road and use theirs! The locating screw was done up tight, it was a bolt rather than a screw! I didn't re-surface the pads- how is this done??? I used EBC GD7120 discs. Thanks for help!! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwj100uni Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 could be your hoses. did you upgrade to braided hoses? Nope, didn't touch hoses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Coops Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 to reface you just need a nice flat surface and a sheet of sandpaper medium to harsh grade then with a figure 8 type motion rub the face of the pad on it, keep checking to ensure you dont remove too much just enought to have a nice even finish over the whole pad. Did you use anything to clean the discs before installing them and how many miles you done on them so far?? Also did you bed them in i.e. doing some nice gradual stops builing up in speed as too many people just jump on the brake pedal and warp their discs. cheers coops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 could be your hoses. did you upgrade to braided hoses? Nope, didn't touch hoses! Worth while doing them at the same time, give Hose Solutions a shout as they have a HEL system that has been redesigned by a 350z owner called Dan and it works very well!! Oh and do the clutch line whilst your at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 you used old pads on new rotors...so now you need to bed the pads in properly From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot. If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatalus Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Adam for the rescue one more time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwj100uni Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hi guys, thanks so much for the post- one question though- doing what Adam has suggested- will this not damage the disc?? Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 How would it damage the disc buddy? They are designed to deal with stopping the car and the process just makes sure the two surfaces are matched up and ready to work together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwj100uni Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Sorry, I just thought that it might score the disk or cause the disc to warp if the pad was uneven. So are you saying I can do this process instead of taking the pads off and grinding down?? Thanks again, DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Coops Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Prob best to give the pads a slight re-face first to get the most from them! coops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunset350z Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Did you make sure the mating surfaces of the hub and disc where clean before refitting? Any crap on the hub will cause problems. As i said in a previous post, i have Goodridge braided brake lines for your non-brembo set up, and they are available for 50 quid delivered. An excellent upgrade for the non brembo's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Sorry, I just thought that it might score the disk or cause the disc to warp if the pad was uneven. So are you saying I can do this process instead of taking the pads off and grinding down?? Thanks again, DJ In an ideal world you would grind them down a bit but there's nothing wrong with doing what Adam suggests to see if it cures the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwj100uni Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hi all, Just want to let you know that I ended up sanding down the pads till they were flat and re-installing. This cured 90% of the problem, however I still didn't like the shake so bought new pads and fitted them and that seems to have completely cured the problem. Thanks for your help! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MITZ@CougarStore Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Thanks for the update, David... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Glad it is sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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