stanski Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 (Updated 2012 - sorry but looks like my picture share site went bust and have lost my pics! - Have reloaded the guide pictures here for you) Doh! excuse the picture order is back to front - you will suss it , any questions please PM me. Hello folks Everyone keeps saying how easy it is to replace the rear pads on Brembos well I couldn't find specific guide /pictures for doing this (or just rubbish at searching the forum) so decided to do my own a simple guide with lots of pictures. Hope it will be of use. Thanks to ireynolds for advice as he did these the other week. Please note - if you have never done brakes or are not confident doing this please seek expert advice /help - we dont want any 350Z's in ditches due to sloppy brakes do we! Be careful and take your time rememeber its only a bit of rubber and these brakes stopping you from an early appointment with God! The pictures follow the sequence but here is a summary and extra info. What you will need: New set of pads (I got boggo Mintex from Brakes International) Copper grease Few rags Latex gloves 2x small screwdrivers Pliers WD-40 can or similar Few blocks of wood Axle stand 1. Park up on firm level ground. 2. Chock the wheels on the opposite side you are working on with blocks (Do one side at a time) 3. Handbrake on and put in 1st gear 4. Wrap some electrical insulation tape or similar around the wheel nuts - to stop it scratching the wheel 5. Loosen the wheel nuts a little 6. Jack up the rear side of the car using the proper jack in the correct location on the sills as shown in your handbook or sticker on the jack. 7. Place axle stand with a small block of wood on top of it - under the rear spring mount (cupped piece) 8. Lower the car onto the stand gently 9. Remove the wheel 10.Release the handbrake gently (be careful and watch if car starts to move at all). 11.Open the bonnet, pop open the brake master cyclinder cover and undo the cap on the cylinder. Put a rag (old socks are good!) around it and put the top back on. 12.Return to wheel hub. Place cardboard on the edge and use a screwdriver to prise the clips out that hold the pins. 13.Slide out the pins one at a time and make sure the big spring that presses the pads down doesn't fly off somewhere. 14.Remove the inner pads first - push them back against the cylinder to free them. 15.Remove the stainless backing plate, clean with WD-40, smear with some copper grease and stick to the new pad. Grease back of new pad also leading and following edge - DO NOT get any grease on the lining. 16.Slide the new pad back in again. 17.Pull the outer pads towards you against the cylinder to push it back same as the inner. Clean the stainless plate and grease as before. Notice the direction of the arrow on the plate (towards the ground) 18.Refit the outer pads. 19.Clean and grease the pins and small locking clips and the big spring that locks under the pins. 20.Refit the pins one at a time, you may need to push the spring down a little to help it slide in. 21.Ensure the pins have the hole facing up (outwards) as you need to refit the locking clips into them. 22.Smear with a little copper grease. 23.If your really sad like me - apply some Poorboys wheel wax to the Brembo cylinder to keep it cleaner for longer. 24.Last check everything is back in position.Refit the wheel and wheel nuts hand tight only. 25.Apply hand brake -Jack up the car - remove Axle stand, lower car. Tighten wheel nuts properly - recheck after 200 miles. 26.Repeat on the opposite wheel. 26.Remove rag around Brake Master Cylinder and screw cap back on securely.Close the cover and shut bonnet. 27.Dab the brakes 2-3 time quite hard this should reset the pads against the discs. Thats it - you just saved a fortune on garage bills! Note the pictures have been moved round to make it easy to see the innards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Nice guide, very helpful for those who are doing this themselves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Thanks for this Stan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanS16 Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Great guide Stan - Will be very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Nice one bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Quads Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Nice guide - Althought one step missed off. While wheel is off get some brake/alloy cleaner and give the brake caliper a nice good clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanski Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 thanks gents Nice guide - Althought one step missed off. While wheel is off get some brake/alloy cleaner and give the brake caliper a nice good clean Yes well spotted matey - I was in a hurry so I just gave it a quite wipe round with my oily rag (sock!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddcboyle Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 completely off topic, but ur engine cover, where can you get the top part? or is that a newer 350z thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 completely off topic, but ur engine cover, where can you get the top part? or is that a newer 350z thing? It's a newer Zed thing It's the engine cover the newer HR engine has Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddcboyle Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 completely off topic, but ur engine cover, where can you get the top part? or is that a newer 350z thing? It's a newer Zed thing It's the engine cover the newer HR engine has ah okay looks pretty funky. ill just get my old rusty plenum polished i guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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