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Fitting spacers - help!


marzman

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Hey.

 

I got some 20mm Eibach hubcentric spacers a few week ago and fitted the rears today.

 

Can anyone tell me how im supposed to fit them? Yes, i know this is a :doh: question - but im stuck :lol:

 

Rear wheel off - put the spacer on, tighten all 5 nuts by hand, and then torque them up with a wheel brace. However 2 questions...

 

1. The socket of my wheel brace only just fits inside the hole where im tightening the nut... when i try to tighten, it gets stuck and i have to kick the brace to get it out...! So i cant get the nuts as tight as i want them.

 

2. Probably an easier answer... when im tightening the nuts, the wheels want to turn... so di i just need someone in the car to press the brakes??

 

So, i've got the spacers as tight as i could get them with this wheel brace, and after a short 3 mile drive i could hear a knocking noise from the left rear - so somethings not right :scare:

 

Im off work tomorrow to do a full detail, so hopefully i can get all 4 spacers fitted CORRECTLY too...

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Morning :lol:

 

When I fitted mine I used a socket set with an extension on it - might be worth investing in one mate. The rear wheels shouldn't turn when fitting the spacers as your handbrake should stop them - unless you didn't have the handbrake on. Otherwise you will have to get somebody to press the brake pedal.

 

And....you will have the same problem with the wheels moving on the front and there's no other way around this, the only thing to do is have somebody else press the brake pedal when tightening them up - like I did.

 

You must make sure the spacer nuts are tight! They need to be torqued up to the same nm as the wheel nuts (I think 105 nm is the setting). There's a link on here somewhere. Might also be wise to invest in a torque wrench - get cheap ones for £20.

 

Remember, those hubcentric spacers are now officially the only link to your tyres so you need to make sure they're tight and flush.

 

And it's also wise to recheck them 500 miles after as the brakes get hot and might be safe to check the spacer nuts. But don't panic when I rechecked mine they were all torqued up nicely.

 

I've had no knocking & no problems fitting mine so if you follow the above you should be OK!

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The above advice is all good. A torque wrench is a worthy investment imo! You may also have to invest in a slimline socket to use with the torque wrench if you are having trouble fitting your current one in the hole. These are only a couple of quid from Halfords but again, well worth it.

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Cheers guys.

 

My handbrake is just for show - it doesn't do anything - but it normally doesnt matter as i have an auto!

 

I have a nice big torque wrench - i just havent used it yet. Will have to read the instructions :lol:

 

I've just driven my girlfriend to work - at 25mph holding up traffic! it was knocking like mad!

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Defo get that wheel off and worse case take them spacers off.

 

Might be easier just to take then to a garage and get them fitted shouldn't cost more than £20.

 

I'd be worried about the handbrake especially as your jacking it up - it could roll forward!!! And I'm not gonna patronise you mate but I am sure the handbrake is part of the MOT check isnt it? I've just checked and it is "An assistant operates the handbrake while the condition of the linkages and/or cables is checked"

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Defo get that wheel off and worse case take them spacers off.

 

Might be easier just to take then to a garage and get them fitted shouldn't cost more than £20.

 

I'd be worried about the handbrake especially as your jacking it up - it could roll forward!!! And I'm not gonna patronise you mate but I am sure the handbrake is part of the MOT check isnt it? I've just checked and it is "An assistant operates the handbrake while the condition of the linkages and/or cables is checked"

 

 

Sorted the spacers i think - no problem.

 

Got out my shiny new Torque wrench and a regular socket fits in the hole perfectly, so i torqued them up to 105nm (am assuming this is right btw... couldn't find anything in it when searching).

 

My handbrake has always been crap - but it got through the MOT no problem - so maybe its not that bad... but the car moves a lot when im torquing the wheel nuts :lol:

 

Cheers for the help guys...!

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Here ya go bud:- viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12328&p=168909&hilit=what+are+the+wheel+torque+settings#p168909

 

somewhere between 85 - 110 will do the job, I set mine at 105 and no probs.

 

And what he said above - check them 100 miles or so, bit of a pain to do it all again but gives you peace of mind.

 

Enjoy your kerb hunters :lol:

 

It does make the Zed look a lot better though doesn't it!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've just bought a set of spacers too and Im hoping not to run into any difficulties when fitting mine.

 

I only have the standard tools for removing the lug bolts that came in the car's toolkit. If this doesnt fit I'll need to move onto the socket set, but im not sure if I have the right attachment.

 

If need to get an adaptor for my socket set to get the eibachs to tighten properly what size do I need - is it 21mm?

 

Sorry for the basic question just Im at work and wanted to go to the local Motorworld on my lunch to get the appropriate bit

 

Cheers

Ross

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I used a thick screw driver on each corner once the wheel was off and put it between/inside the slots on the disc and that stopped them from moving.

As for using a torque wrench i never bothered even though i have one. With a good socket set they were not coming off but as others have said after so many miles just double check everything. :thumbs:

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I used a thick screw driver on each corner once the wheel was off and put it between/inside the slots on the disc and that stopped them from moving.

As for using a torque wrench i never bothered even though i have one. With a good socket set they were not coming off but as others have said after so many miles just double check everything. :thumbs:

Why would you not use a torque wrench if you have one? :headhurt: Overtorquing can be just as bad as under! You want to make sure they are all equal.

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I used a thick screw driver on each corner once the wheel was off and put it between/inside the slots on the disc and that stopped them from moving.

As for using a torque wrench i never bothered even though i have one. With a good socket set they were not coming off but as others have said after so many miles just double check everything. :thumbs:

Why would you not use a torque wrench if you have one? :headhurt: Overtorquing can be just as bad as under! You want to make sure they are all equal.

 

I do not torque up when i put my wheels on, i just give them a good turn and the spacers i done the same and never have any problems, others use lock tite on there spacers but again why because they do not use that when putting there wheels on. Same difference if you ask me :thumbs:

On engine parts i have used a torque wrench everytime as things can be broken if over tighened or fall undo if not tight enough.

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I would strongly advise anyone who removes there own wheels to spend the £30 on a torque wrench, Why do you think Nissan spend there time testing and printing correct tightening torques for wheels etc ??

I have seen a few occasions where customers etc have over tightened there wheel bolts which has led to the wheel bolts shearing! Imagine that going round a bend. :drive1

 

 

It makes no sense if you have one USE IT! it takes seconds to tighten wheels correctly and could save you a lot of money. Each time you over tighten your wheel bolts you will stretch the bolt and threads a fraction and if you do this every time you remove and re-fit your wheels, joint with the cornering forces and heat its an accident waiting to happen!

 

This is by no means meaning to scare anyone but to own these cars and to be a member of this forum shows you are an enthusiast to some degree, so surely £30 and a few extra mins of time is worth the peace of mind

:bangin:

 

Spacers look good tho after some of these myself as funds are tight and cant afford new wheels at the min. :D

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