P15UL T Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 as per title, going to be changing over the rad hoses and wondered what the best method was and what i would need , do you need to drain the system ??? thats in advance for any help Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexx Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 There was a post about this just over a week ago.....I'll go hunt for it. EDIT: This was it. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=20964&hilit=coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15UL T Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 sweet dude thanks, dunno how i missed that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
From A to Zed Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Hey Paul, You should be fine mate. Before you start; Ensure you have the proper Samco clips for all the hoses. If not order them from demon tweeks (~ 19 pounds) or buy some good jubilee clips. Have a can of WD40 ready and a large bucket or container to catch the coolant. Have some old cloths ready to mop up any coolant. Buy a spare bottle of coolant. You might kick the bucket over in a rage! 1). Remove the radiator cap on the top right of the radiator (or you will have an air lock). 2). Get the car on axle stands. 3). Remove the plastic tray under the engine. 4). To drain the system you need to remove the plastic plug under the radiator. It's on the near side. Use a flat head to remove and be gentile with the thread. 5). Allow the Zed to relieve itself! 6). Move the coolant to one side, replace plug to prevent any left over spillage. 7). Remove the lower hose clips using mole grips or pliers. Watch those fingers and knuckles as the clips are under a lot of tension. The hoses can also be a bugger to get off. I gripped my hoses by wrapping them with an old cloth and tugging like mad. You could also try squirting some WD40 in there if you can - i.e wriggle a flat head under the hose and spray away. 8). Fit the lower hose and clamp it in place. At this stage you can replace the plastic under tray and lower the car back to the ground. It's easier to change the upper hoses with the car at ground level. 9). The hose on the top left of the radiator is easy. Tackle that one next and clamp it in place. 10). The longer thin hose is a bit of pain. You need to remove the plastic engine cover and it also helps to remove the induction kit / air box for easier access. I found this one even harder to get off and gashed a knuckle or two... A few four letter words helped at this stage. 11). Fit your new hose, give it a twist to ensure the logo's are on show and admire. 12). Replace the induction kit / air box. 13). Replace your engine cover. I managed this without removing the strut brace. 14). Check your radiator plug is in and slowly refill the system using a funnel. I'm not sure what the correct procedure is here, I slowly poured directly into the radiator and the expansion tank to ensure that no air is trapped. 15). Check your coolant level is ok. I ran the car for a bit and went for a spin... Once back I checked the temp and coolant level and all seemed well. 16). Take a final peep to check out your new hoses and grab a beer - drop me a PM if you get stuck. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin W Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 I read the above. NIssan specify a repeatable sequence of 3000 rpm and idles until you get rid of airlocks Read the Service Manual b4 u do this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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