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Sound Deadening


Eneah

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Bought some damplifier pro to do my doors along with my sound system install but when I took them apart I noticed how tight the fit is. Just wondering if anyone has done any work with sound deadening in the 350z.

 

Where are the best places to stick it?

 

Any tips on doing the doors so that the panel will fit again afterwards?

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The thing is with sound deadning is you dont actually need to apply a lot of the material. Ive never used Damplifier pro before so cant comment on what its like. I always use dynamat and suspect its probably exactly the same. I suggest Taking the door speaker out and placing a small square of it behind the speaker, on the actual outside part of the door. That should be sufficient for that panel, then place another couple of small squares in areas under the door card. In my experince you dont need to use huge amounts of this sort of stuff to get results well not unless your running some huge SPL system.

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I have Damplifier in my car (and yes its the same as Dynamat Extreme, just loads cheaper). I havent done the doors though. Thats a project for this summer. As per my usual answers, if you search on www.my350z.com there are loads of pics of installs in there. Some cover it entirely, some only small bits. One of the best bits I did to mine (with reducing tyre noise as the aim) was to sound deaden the huge expanse behind the sub. Takes quite a bit of dismantling of interior plastic, but well worth it :)

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im trying to remove my sound deadening at the moment, horrible job, using a heat gun and a paint scraper :(

 

black stuff is like tarmac

 

How come you're removing it?

 

Chris

 

 

All in the name of weight saving, plus it produces unbreathable black smoke should it set on fire on track, 12kg in all, so far i have 1 kg off and it took about 1 hour :(

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im trying to remove my sound deadening at the moment, horrible job, using a heat gun and a paint scraper :(

 

black stuff is like tarmac

 

How come you're removing it?

 

Chris

 

 

All in the name of weight saving, plus it produces unbreathable black smoke should it set on fire on track, 12kg in all, so far i have 1 kg off and it took about 1 hour :(

Most likely butyl which is nasty tar like stuff. I can imaging it isnt nice when its burnt :scare:

 

I know Dynamat Xtreme is meant to be the dogs danglies, but have any of the competitors ever tried something like Second Skin? I have heard (on forums and the like) of people swapping to Second Skin from Dynamat, but not the other way around. Like most things you can hear what you like (ie I'm not saying people havent swapped from SS to DM), just wondering if anyone on her knows someone whos used both? For me SS worked a treat and cost way less than DM Xtreme. :)

 

This was taken from the following report (OK, its all subjective and back in 2005, but I doubt things have moved on much) and could be from a SS fan boy, but hey...

 

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Second Skin's products live up to their "Over Engineered to Over Perform" motto. They are clearly a higher quality alternative to Dynamat Xtreme - designed for greater heat tolerance, with higher quality materials.

 

If quality is your most important requirement, Second Skin Damplifier or Damplifier Pro are the obvious choices. Dynamat Xtreme is close, but being more expensive and not as good isn't a winning combination. I congradulate Second Skin Audio for their obvious dedication to providing the best product possible.

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im trying to remove my sound deadening at the moment, horrible job, using a heat gun and a paint scraper :(

 

black stuff is like tarmac

 

How come you're removing it?

 

Chris

 

 

All in the name of weight saving, plus it produces unbreathable black smoke should it set on fire on track, 12kg in all, so far i have 1 kg off and it took about 1 hour :(

Most likely butyl which is nasty tar like stuff. I can imaging it isnt nice when its burnt :scare:

 

I know Dynamat Xtreme is meant to be the dogs danglies, but have any of the competitors ever tried something like Second Skin? I have heard (on forums and the like) of people swapping to Second Skin from Dynamat, but not the other way around. Like most things you can hear what you like (ie I'm not saying people havent swapped from SS to DM), just wondering if anyone on her knows someone whos used both? For me SS worked a treat and cost way less than DM Xtreme. :)

 

A few have used second skin, but the guys that do this day in day out tend to swear by Dynamat. Not sure if you've seen the test with a cymbal? One inch square on a cymbal of each of the products and then hit them. The Dynamat one is like a brick, no resonance at all. I think there are tests on You Tube....

 

Typically, a lot of people on forums (Talkaudio and the like) tend to want everything for a quid, and so will argue black is white if it is cheaper... :blush:

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A few have used second skin, but the guys that do this day in day out tend to swear by Dynamat. Not sure if you've seen the test with a cymbal? One inch square on a cymbal of each of the products and then hit them. The Dynamat one is like a brick, no resonance at all. I think there are tests on You Tube....

 

Typically, a lot of people on forums (Talkaudio and the like) tend to want everything for a quid, and so will argue black is white if it is cheaper... :blush:

Nope not seen it. I did compare some DM Xtreme in Halfrauds with my SS and there wasnt much difference to what I could see and feel. But I guess those in the know know better than me :blush: Still cost me less than half what DM would have cost and it did the job, and I still run the stock BOSE speakers so you can tell I'm not into my car audio that much ;) One thing that made a big difference to mine was adding closed cell foam (aka camp mat) all over the SS. Helps stop that nasty airbourne higher frequency noise that the SS cant stop.

 

Whichever you chose, remember to get a roller and a good knife. Having a good bond between the material and the car is key :thumbs:

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A few have used second skin, but the guys that do this day in day out tend to swear by Dynamat. Not sure if you've seen the test with a cymbal? One inch square on a cymbal of each of the products and then hit them. The Dynamat one is like a brick, no resonance at all. I think there are tests on You Tube....

 

Typically, a lot of people on forums (Talkaudio and the like) tend to want everything for a quid, and so will argue black is white if it is cheaper... :blush:

Nope not seen it. I did compare some DM Xtreme in Halfrauds with my SS and there wasnt much difference to what I could see and feel. But I guess those in the know know better than me :blush: Still cost me less than half what DM would have cost and it did the job, and I still run the stock BOSE speakers so you can tell I'm not into my car audio that much ;) One thing that made a big difference to mine was adding closed cell foam (aka camp mat) all over the SS. Helps stop that nasty airbourne higher frequency noise that the SS cant stop.

 

Whichever you chose, remember to get a roller and a good knife. Having a good bond between the material and the car is key :thumbs:

 

At the end of the day, anything is an improvement and SS and DM are good products. With DM Xtreme IMO you get the best but you are into the law of diminishing returns for the price. Is it twice as good? No. But if you've got £3k of kit in the car, it's worth the extra to get the most out of them.

 

And roller and knife are essential as Chris says.

In answer to the question, the ideal is to 'seal' the door skin, and sound deaden it. With DM Xtreme, you can cut it to shape pretty easily and with a roller get it into all sorts of places and contours. The door panel should be tight when you put it back on to get the best chamber. The advantage with DM Xtreme is how thin it is, so there is plenty of room to get it in the doors. If you're not going mad, I would suggest 4 or 5 decent strips of it on the outer skin of the car and around the mounting area of the actual speaker. :)

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I've used a range of products depending on what its in etc. If weight is not a maasive problem I have used some of the cheaper tar based products to cover the boot floors etc.

Anywhere that involves moving bits like windows etc I always use the more expensive products and make sure any metal I attach it to is nice and clean. The last thing you want is tarry stuff going onto the window.

 

As for doing the doors. You will notice a big difference doing it. Try and ge sound round behind the speaker. An easy way to tell if you need doing it give the panel a knock, if you find bits still sounding very tinny you need to try and get to them.

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