srobrien Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Right folks, I have been struggling a bit with this install as I have NEVER had to touch any ICE in my life so for those on the same boat I thought I would begin drawing up exactly what I have done so far. Please understand this is was "I" have done and should under no circumstance be used as a guide for you own project (incase something blows up ) Im sure im doing somethings wrong so please feel free to let me know im an idiot. Anyway lets start with the unit in question: Pioneer AVIC-F900BT. I am installing this in my 2005 350z GT With a Bose system already in place. For this install I required. 1. New Headunit (obviously) 2. ICT 29-672 Cable (This allows a new headunit to be connected to the bose system whilst still retaining the steering wheel controls). Available here: http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/ict/p~29-674.html?cat=0 3. 29-007 Cable (This is a Pioneer specific adapter for the above cable) Available here: http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/29-007_ict-29-007---pioneer-head-unit-adapter.html 4. Head unit fittings kit (I bought METRA CAR INSTALL KIT 99-7402 NISSAN 350Z 2003-2005†from Ebay USA...it has STILL NOT ARRIVED AFTER 2 WEEKS). 5. Soldering equipment 6. Length of spare grounding wire 7. Various tools From what I have read and discovered, the bose unit grounds itself through the chasis bolts, therefore any aftermarket headunit will require extra sufficient grounding in order to function correctly. In other words if its not grounded properly you wont get any power to the unit. I decided it would be best if I earthed the ICT cable and the Headunit ISO cable together to the chassis in order to get a decent grounding. Here is the ICT cable in question: There are two grounding wires on the ICT cable, one exposed and one running into the iso adapter. I stripped back the insulation, joined them tegether along with another open ended length of grounding wire, soldered and insulated. Now for the grounding on the Pioneer ISO Power cable. I have cut down and exposed the end of the DVD Handbrake detector wire, this is the wire you would usually connect to the handbrake to stop you watching DVD's whilst the car is in motion. I spliced this into the grounding to bypass this function (DONT DO THIS). The two wires were soldered together along with another open ended length of grounding wire. I now join the Headunit ISO connector to the ICT Cable. I then connect the two open ended grounding wires together and attach a eyelet at the end so it can be screwed onto the chassis. I have just had this out in the car and tested. The unit fires up perfectly now it is all correctly grounded. Im STILL waiting for my fittings kit for the headunit. Once it had arrived I will continue with the write up. Cheers R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1 HNK Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Wow thats confusing! I have ordered a pioneer head unit also and all the bits above but i was hoping the adaptors would mean its all plugs in to each other without having to cut / splice / solder anything!!?? Maybe i'll get someone else to fit it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Hey Its just a case of splicing in a grounding wire, everything else should be pretty straight forward....i hope. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Quads Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 yeah its just the grounding wire that causes all the problems. Life would be much easier if Nissan just put the bloody ground cable into the loom grrrrrrr. For the sake of 0.001p when it was made Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neodc Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 its not as confusing as it looks, if you follow the guide and do it cable at a time i takes about 20 minutes from takeapart to back together, shame the headunit is a disapointment though, no voice activation in the UK, the patches have improved it loads, but still quite buggy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Hey guys, the blue/white wire on the ICT marked as Amp on, needs to be connected before i get audio but im not sure where to.....would it be the "system remote" by any chance? Cheers R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 looks like a bomb... are you a terrorist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 looks like a bomb... are you a terrorist? Shhhhhhh.........haha thats what my girlfriend said, she thinks im secretly working for al qaeda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunset350z Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Hey guys, the blue/white wire on the ICT marked as Amp on, needs to be connected before i get audio but im not sure where to.....would it be the "system remote" by any chance? Cheers R I would say that is the cable to connect to, otherwise the amp wont fire up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Part 2. From the ICT Cable there is a spare blue/white wire which is unconnected. This is the wire that sends the signal to power the amp. I simply crimmped on a spade connector to the end of this wire and insulated with some black tape. The audio loom from the back of the head unit had a corresponding blue/white wire which is labelled as "system remote control". The spade connector I made up from the ICT cable plugs in to this and is secured and insulated with black tape. This should now be enough to have power and audio to the system. Next is to get the facia installed and to run the ipod adapter and gps wiring. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Looking good so far, deffo keeping my eye on this one I'll prolly cut the grounding wires tho and then solder the wires together, followed by neatly putting it into heatshrink for a more tidy appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Looking good so far, deffo keeping my eye on this one I'll prolly cut the grounding wires tho and then solder the wires together, followed by neatly putting it into heatshrink for a more tidy appearance. What you trying to say like? cant say im too worried about how it looks. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 It's a personal choice for me to use heatshrink. Plus removal will be less messy should I need to and with tape there is always the chance of snagging and condensation maybe getting in, whereas the heatshrink will cut down on those risks. I also use a gas powered soldering iron, mainly cos it looks so cool. Gets hot real fast, and being gaspowered, it's cordless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Kenny Williams has been informed not to let you help him! :lol::lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Kenny Williams has been informed not to let you help him! :lol::lol: Ha ha, It was the rig sparkies that tought me the "plenty of solder and black tape" method anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Careful when you are tidying the wires and "wrapping" them up, its tight as a gnats chuff at the back of the HU when you put it in and you will need to be hiding wires, clips and boxs in any space available! There are a couple of "holes" to the left and right of the back of the HU that you can "stuff" the cables and loom clips into, careful on the one to the right of the hu as there is an airbag clip and also where the cup holder retracts, I couldnt get the cup holded back in due to cables! The one on the left goes into a big void under the steering wheel so thats a pretty good side to aim for... Good luch when your putting it together! Its a tad frustrating but worth it in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Cheers 3Fiddy, im looking forward to it, i just wish they would hurry up and deliver my facia!!!!!!!!! Does anyone know of any guides on how to remove the dashboard a bit so i can route the handsfree mic to the sun visor. I also need to route the ipod connector to the arm rest cubby. Cheers R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/ for dash removal. Run the mic cable up the drivers side (just unclips) and into the roof liner, no need to remove just push in. IPOD connector to rear cubby is the least of your issues! Easiest job of them all!! 5 screws and loads of space! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Cheers 3Fiddy, thats some good info there. PS. Your install is looking mighty good so far. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Ok folks, my facia FINALLY arrived after a stonking £16 import/handling charges! on a £10 item!! what? Anyway I just got stuck in and removed the centre console as per the wiki guide. Here you can see the new facia and the new stereo fitted. The fitment is still crap, there is a small gap at the bottom, its not too noticable in daylight but looks terrible under flashlight. Then it was simly a case of taking it out to the car and plugging it in. (Exscuse the mess there is still a fair amount of grit outside) The Sat nav sensor was placed under the dials at the top out of sight. I routed the handsfree mic to the sun visor. And finally i routed the ipod cable to the armrest cubby. There is also an adapter for a usb deviced there too. Done....for now R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1 HNK Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 looks good mate, so what was the final cost for the fascia? Also was it fairly simple to route the mic and the usb cable to the central cubby? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Now I know where you live! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Looking really good there. Let us know how you get on with the steering wheel controls, i.e. what still works, if at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 looks good mate, so what was the final cost for the fascia? Also was it fairly simple to route the mic and the usb cable to the central cubby? The fittings kit was around £30 inc p&p from the states, then another £16 to pick it up from parcel force. After all that I found you can get in from sextons direct for £14.99 http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/ict/p~50-256.html?cat=0 The USB was easy, just a screw either side of the arm rest and it lifts up so you can slip the cable underneith. the mic was also easy you can just push it under the trim. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srobrien Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Looking really good there.Let us know how you get on with the steering wheel controls, i.e. what still works, if at all. The controls work fine the wires on the ict cable just need to be snaploked to the corresponding wires on the control loom. Its a serious tight squeeze behind there though...very little room to work. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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