MrLizard Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Anyone any idea's of how to force the fans to cut in earlier? no matter what combination of ac/no ac/full force etc doesnt appear to make any difference, i know it cuts in on heat and that once remapped it will be told to cut in on a lower temp but any advice in the meantime? ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Anyone any idea's of how to force the fans to cut in earlier? no matter what combination of ac/no ac/full force etc doesnt appear to make any difference, i know it cuts in on heat and that once remapped it will be told to cut in on a lower temp but any advice in the meantime? ta Steve, as discussed with you previously the only way that I was able to change the settings to achieve fans kicking in earlier and switching off later was with a remap. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Anyone any idea's of how to force the fans to cut in earlier? no matter what combination of ac/no ac/full force etc doesnt appear to make any difference, i know it cuts in on heat and that once remapped it will be told to cut in on a lower temp but any advice in the meantime? ta Sorry double post, was supposed to be an edit Steve, as discused with you previously the only way that I was able to change the settings to achieve fans kicking in earlier and switching off later was with a remap. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrLizard Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 just a bit frustrating cause although i always run down the car for a few miles before switching the engine off the heat coming from the engine bay is enough to, and im contemplating it, cook a few sausages on... still if theres only one way of doing this then thats it, ta for the confirmation alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev-the-Rev Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Is there any reason why they could'nt be independantly switched from say a hard feed through a switch into the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Is there any reason why they could'nt be independantly switched from say a hard feed through a switch into the car? I wondered about that. It's a rather agricultural solution though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 There are quite a few mods that you can do to reduce heat soak in the engine bay. You could be a plumber for the day and repipe the water works and also alter the air flow to and from the engine bay. I am swapping out my KOYO R2577 Race Radiator within the next couple of weeks and replacing it with a bespoke home made one. If I dont fit it to the other car then you are welcome to it if you decide to go down that route. I assume you are running Nismo cap and race stat. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Can I ask the obvious? What are you trying to accomplish by having the fans on earlier? They are set up from the factory to turn on and off at prescribed times. There is nothing to be gained by having them turn on earlier. Even on my own full NA car, my only mod to the coolant system is Samco hoses (look nicer!) and a Koyo radiator (lighter). I even removed my NISMO thermostat as I found it to be utterly useless, even for track days in the dead of summer....and in winter time, it caused numerous check engine lights which I grew tired of. Even that won't help the car run significantly cooler - all it does is open earlier. Remember everything is aluminum - not like the old cast iron blocks of old where cooling them was essential. Aluminum heats and cools at a far more rapid pace on its own. Having the fans run prior to you shutting the car down is not going to cool the engine bay down any quicker, nor will a larger radiator, nor will a lower temp thermostat. Your 2 main options are: 1. ceramic coat everything in the engine bay - all piping, heads, block, manifold, etc etc (or alternatively, use the foil adhesive, expensive, but very effective 2. fit a hood with a well thought out reversed hood scoop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrLizard Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 i am driving it hard on the track and i want to try and modify the car in order to cope with enlonged periods on the track, so the brakes etc are fine and having done one cool down lap could have taken much more punishment, the problem i have is lack of knowledge really, i am doing maybe 4 or 5 quick laps and coming in because that seems to be fine, i dont know how many laps i could do before i start to destroy the clutch or over heat the diff/oil/power steering fluid and just want to make sure im doing what i can to cool the car down. I have spoken to RJN about a hood with a sort of reverse scoop etc to take the hot air from the rad out the top of the hood etc... any advice welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Can I ask the obvious? What are you trying to accomplish by having the fans on earlier? They are set up from the factory to turn on and off at prescribed times. There is nothing to be gained by having them turn on earlier. Even on my own full NA car, my only mod to the coolant system is Samco hoses (look nicer!) and a Koyo radiator (lighter). I even removed my NISMO thermostat as I found it to be utterly useless, even for track days in the dead of summer....and in winter time, it caused numerous check engine lights which I grew tired of. Even that won't help the car run significantly cooler - all it does is open earlier. Remember everything is aluminum - not like the old cast iron blocks of old where cooling them was essential. Aluminum heats and cools at a far more rapid pace on its own. Having the fans run prior to you shutting the car down is not going to cool the engine bay down any quicker, nor will a larger radiator, nor will a lower temp thermostat. Your 2 main options are: 1. ceramic coat everything in the engine bay - all piping, heads, block, manifold, etc etc (or alternatively, use the foil adhesive, expensive, but very effective 2. fit a hood with a well thought out reversed hood scoop Must be something in the air or the water over there as the Nismo cap, stat and Koyo rad works well over here with no issues. Not any huge differences to be had granted, but every little helps as every degree is a prisoner. I also experienced a reduction in engine bay heat soak with my fans coming on earlier and switching off later as cold air was sucked into the engine bay for a longer period. Channeling all the cold air to and from the rad directly into the engine bay by filling in the sides also helped, as did a proper vented/scooped bonnet allowing cold air in and hot air out. Also removing some of the plastic at the bulkhead also helped by creating a larger gap to allow the hot air out or if you are feeling flush then a raised Du Luck bonnet works very well. Serious modification of the front bumper also helps, but that is a story for an other day Normally, you should not experience heat soak or running hot issues with a na car. I run 600 bhp and it is a constant battle keeping the car cool on serious track days and I am continually making subtle changes to try and improve the situation but I am slowly getting there. Mapped to run a bit more fuel through on the overrun also helps quite a bit by helping to keep the Turbos cooler. I could go on forever but I don't want to give all my secrets away Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 In all honesty Steve you really have nothing to worry about with a NA car and the heat soak that you are generating will pale into significance compared to what I experience. You will only be able to do about 10 - 15 laps depending on what track you are on before your brakes and tyres start to go off anyway. That really is the most you should be doing in any one session as your concentration levels will also start to drop off. A cool down lap and then ten minutes back in the pit lane and you will be good to go again. If your track day consists of a 4 hour open pit lane then you will find that you will have ample track time. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 With respect to the thermostat, peak temps won't drop by any meaningful amount, just the temp. at which the thermostat opens. On my own car, the ecu didn't like it whatsoever in the winter months, and I got tired of clearing codes. I went back to stock, which is what I have to this day, and there are zero issues. The rad cap is basically a dress up item, and while in theory they improve cooling system efficiency, in reality, they look nice. The Koyo rad does help a bit as the larger unit has much more coolant capacity vs stock, and being all aluminum, dissipates heat at a faster rate vs the factory plastic tanked unit. The Koyo also allow for alot more airflow through the core vs stock by the fin design. It's not the best unit out there, but it's a fantastic piece for the money. An NA and an FI car are apples to oranges. Unless the car is making ~ 2 x the hp of stock, these things are just not a concern whatsoever. I've done track days, up to 1 hour stints on full r compounds, in 100 degree heat, without any overheating issues whatsoever, and with coolant remaining at a steady 200-212F the entire time. My only coolant related mod for this year will be a new shroud and new electric fans I have literally hours and hours datalogging my car at track days with a very fancy unit I picked up while doing the development work on the ITB setup I'm going to be running. The single biggest improvement was switching between a stock hood and my C West unit in terms of underhood temps while both at rest and at motion. My logger showed nearly a 40 degree temp differential vs the stock hood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrLizard Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 thanks for the info guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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