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Bamboozled - Kuro isn't metallic, is it...?


stevie_350z

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Advice required from my learned Z-heads:

 

Should I "touch up" my Kuro with the Halford's Nissan Kuro kit - grey primer, kuro paint - but NO LACQUER - I'm pretty sure I need lacquer right?

 

I have a small multi-point (4) stone-stab mark in the middle of the door, and a blatent half-cm flake missing off the bonet. Let's not talk about the bumper.

 

I took it to the "stealer" and he said I'd be better touching it up, because all he could do was a re-spray. Needless to say I was hoping for more love as I'm not a bodyshop person, I don't have the tools/skills, and I want someone professional to do it for me.

 

I spoke with a good friend of mine who is _much_ more knowledgeable than me and he knows someone local who can do a respray for a few hundred. I'm thinking this is the best option, so I can then get the Armourfend (or similar) on top of a good job. But if I do that, then why not do the touch up anyway, as even if I balls it up it will get sorted with a spray.

 

Back to the lacquer tho - in Halfords they only say to use it on metallic or pearlescent... I must confess that I'm now confuddled as to what the Kuro is. It certainly does look like it has lacquer on it (it's like glass after I've given it some good lovin' :p ).

 

So: does the Kuro need the lacquer... and what do the experts think?

 

Cheers in advance,

Steve

:surrender:

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Advice required from my learned Z-heads:

 

Should I "touch up" my Kuro with the Halford's Nissan Kuro kit - grey primer, kuro paint - but NO LACQUER - I'm pretty sure I need lacquer right?

 

I have a small multi-point (4) stone-stab mark in the middle of the door, and a blatent half-cm flake missing off the bonet. Let's not talk about the bumper.

 

I took it to the "stealer" and he said I'd be better touching it up, because all he could do was a re-spray. Needless to say I was hoping for more love as I'm not a bodyshop person, I don't have the tools/skills, and I want someone professional to do it for me. B) kuro just a solid black, no lacquer

 

I spoke with a good friend of mine who is _much_ more knowledgeable than me and he knows someone local who can do a respray for a few hundred. I'm thinking this is the best option, so I can then get the Armourfend (or similar) on top of a good job. But if I do that, then why not do the touch up anyway, as even if I balls it up it will get sorted with a spray.

 

Back to the lacquer tho - in Halfords they only say to use it on metallic or pearlescent... I must confess that I'm now confuddled as to what the Kuro is. It certainly does look like it has lacquer on it (it's like glass after I've given it some good lovin' :p ).

 

So: does the Kuro need the lacquer... and what do the experts think?

 

Cheers in advance,

Steve

:surrender:

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So is it true that lacquer only applies to metallics/pearlescent? If so, then why would the dealer-guy tell me about the lacquer (human error maybe :( ). If it isn't true that ONLY metallics/pearlescents use lacquer, then why does the halfords/nissan kuro kit come without (and recommends that ONLY metallics/pearls need it).

 

I'm sure this is a n00b situation and it's all very simple really :) As for chips away, I did call them some time ago but I travel a lot and we kept missing. I will add them on my list of alternatives.

 

Cheers m8

Steve

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I think flat colours don't have lacquer. If you are attempting to fix the stone chips yourself, the best advice seems to be for flat colours:

 

- apply with a toothpick, slightly proud of the rest of the paintwork

- use very fine wet & dry to remove excess paint after leaving for 24 hours

- polish, then wax.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone got any before/after pics of this langka stuff in action on the Z? Looks pretty impressive, but remain to be convinced.

 

If it is as good as the site makes out, given the "slight" stone chip issues experienced by the Z's, it may be something we could look at possibly securing a discount on.

 

Is this the answer to our prayers for non protected bumpers and bonnet chips?

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Has anyone got any before/after pics of this langka stuff in action on the Z? Looks pretty impressive, but remain to be convinced.

 

If it is as good as the site makes out, given the "slight" stone chip issues experienced by the Z's, it may be something we could look at possibly securing a discount on.

 

Is this the answer to our prayers for non protected bumpers and bonnet chips?

 

Believe me it's good stuff, unfortunately got no before and after pics!!!

 

On very small chips it's excellent. Bigger chips do take longer to heal. It's a case of building up the layers of paint!

 

My car is never off the road for less than 12 hours without getting covered in crap, so that's the difficult part...

 

Oh the other thing, you will sh*t yourself once you use it cos the paint work will look faded... Don't worry all's it needs now is a good polish :thumbs:

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easyest way to cut in paints is washing it with solvents (solvent baised paint only)

 

what you do.

 

Rub back the area using 1500 sandpaper then 2000

clean the area

spray it - no need for primer

Then laquer it with lots of solvent mixed in (thes blends the old and new)

Flatten the laquer with wet 2000 sand paper then polish it B)

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  • 4 weeks later...

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