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What you need to upgrade your 350z Audio System


Rob_Quads

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I'm planning on upgrading my audio soon and I'd appreciate some advice. :)

 

I've got a UKDM GT with the Bose system fitted and I'm planning on swapping the head unit for my Pioneer DEH-P88RS II (single DIN) and the Bose amp for my Kenwood KAC-PS4D. For the moment I plan to keep the Bose speakers and sub although I do plan to upgrade them at some point, it depends how they perform with the new amp and HU really. Keeping the steering wheel controls is a must.

 

Here's what I think I need:

 

Facia Panel - ICT 50-229:

http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/facia_pa ... 0-229.html

 

ICT 29-674 - Nissan 350z Bose USC Loom:

http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/steering ... 9-674.html

 

ICT 29-007 - Pioneer head-unit lead:

http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/steering ... html?cat=0

 

Is this correct given I'm removing the Bose amp too? Also can I expect full functionality from the steering wheel controls or will they be a bit hit and miss?

 

I know that the amp will need to be fiddled with to get the speakers to the right volume and that I'll need to earth the HU but my mate who is fitting it all (does it for a living) is fine with that. I just thought I'd save him some effort by getting all the cables sorted first. Any advice would be much appreciated.

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Removing the BOSE amp should have no effect on the steering wheel controls working.

 

When you come to replacing the BOSE amp I would not try and cable up the amp using the existing cables, IMO you are much better removing the sound part of the adapter and running RCA cables from the pioneer head-unit to the amplifier.

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Thanks for the info Rob. :thumbs:

 

Removing the BOSE amp should have no effect on the steering wheel controls working.

 

Sorry I didn't mean to imply that! :doh: I just meant are those steering wheel control adapters a bit dodgy in general. Can I expect all of the functions to work as expected or is it a bit hit and miss depending on the model of HU?

 

When you come to replacing the BOSE amp I would not try and cable up the amp using the existing cables, IMO you are much better removing the sound part of the adapter and running RCA cables from the pioneer head-unit to the amplifier.

 

Why's that? Is the OEM wiring poor quaility or is it more of a technical issue?

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The signals passed through to the BOSE amp are not suitable for aftermarket amps. The voltages are above line level (Phonos) but less than speaker level. As a result of this you should not use the inputs to feed a replacement amp thus why I recommend running new RCAs to supply the new amp. This will also produce a better sound as you have less conversions going on.

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Thanks for this post....has been very useful. I had been using srobriens's guide (link below) for fitting my Pioneer AVIC-F900BT but this post mentions a problem that I'm having, the VOLUME!

 

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=19787

 

I have the ICT 29-672 Cable and the 29-007 Pioneer adaptor cable for the steering controls, shown below:

 

 

2. ICT 29-672 Cable (This allows a new headunit to be connected to the bose system whilst still retaining the steering wheel controls).

29-674.jpg

Available here: http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/ict/p~29-674.html?cat=0

 

3. 29-007 Cable (This is a Pioneer specific adapter for the above cable)

29-007.jpg

Available here: http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/29-007_ict-29-007---pioneer-head-unit-adapter.html

 

 

I'm just wandering what my options are as the volume just isn't loud enough. I don't like it blasting my head off or anything, but the max volume is about 50% of the original stereo, I need more!!

 

The initial setup was the Bose system, so with AMPS and Sub as standard. On the first page of this post Rob mentioned the 'Autoleads Line Level Booster (0-18db)', part number PC9-460 which I've found for £25.

 

I'm just wandering if this will solve my problem, will it boost the levels sufficiently? Also, it looks like there is only 2 channels so does that mean I can only boost the front or back speakers? Or will I need 2 of these things? Is the PAC OEM2 a better solution?

 

Just trying to work out if I should bother with this or just buy a new aftermarket AMP to power the rear speakers and sub. Like I said, I'm not looking to burst my ear drums, I'd just like the sound to be at least as good and as loud as it was with the Bose stereo.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated....Thanks!!

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Thanks for that Rob. I was just hoping someone had had experience with the line level booster. I've just ordered the Autoleads one anyway so I'll see how it goes.

 

If I were to go down the aftermarket AMP route, would a 3 channel AMP be ok? I'm thinking 2 to power the rear speakers and one for the sub (I've seen some with a more powerful 3rd channel), or perhaps a 4 channel and bridge 2 of them for the sub. I'm assuming the stereo will be fine to power the front speakers.

 

I stripped the boot a while back to put some sound proofing in and noticed there is an AMP in the rear of the boot as well as the one under the centre console (by the hand brake). Do you think it would be best to wire in a new AMP with RCA's and then run new speaker wire directly to the speakers, or would it be ok to use the existing speaker wires? I'm just thinking that the speakers look like they'll be a pain to get to.

 

Also, does anyone know which AMP powers which speakers? I wonder if one of the lads down Halfrauds will know :headhurt:

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I would not recomend amping the rear speakers, leave them on the old BOSE amp or just disconnect them.

 

Not sure which box you are talking about under the center console as there is no amp there. There are two amps as part of the BOSE - one inside the sub box (for the sub) and one in the boot for the front and rear speakers.

 

Ideally you should run new speaker cables to the speakers BUT unless your running big power then you should be fine to use the existing harness

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*snip* ...or perhaps a 4 channel and bridge 2 of them for the sub. I'm assuming the stereo will be fine to power the front speakers.

 

My Kenwood amp is a 4 channel and I was planning on doing the same - 1 channel for the fronts, 1 channel for the rears and then bridge the other two for the Sub. That's only because I had a 4 channel left over from my old car though. Ideally I'd want a 5 channel with one channel for each speaker and one left over for the sub to satisfy my OCD! ;)

 

I would not recomend amping the rear speakers, leave them on the old BOSE amp or just disconnect them.

 

Why's that, it seems like a bit of a waste?! I've come from an MX-5 so I was enjoying the luxury of having 4 speakers again! :lol:

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I would never recommend bridging the front speakers together and running them off a single channel. Unless its a very good amp it will not be designed to run two speakers, specially if wired in parallel (would work in series but then its a waste)

 

1 channel PER speaker not set of speakers. If you have a 4 channel amp 2 for the front and 2 bridged for the sub or just powering the speakers.

 

The reason I would say don't bother with the rears because if you start amping the front you will not really notice them. The only time they really add something is if you have 5.1. Save the money on amping/upgrading the rears and spend the money on a better front stage / sub

 

If you had a listen to a really well setup 2+1 system you would be amazed what it can sound like and won't even notice there are no front speakers.

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If you had a listen to a really well setup 2+1 system you would be amazed what it can sound like and won't even notice there are no front speakers.

 

Totally agree with that. In my MX-5 I just had a set of Boston Acoustics components in the front with a small sub in the boot powered by the same Kenwood digital amp I mentioned previously. 1 channel for each speaker, 2 for the sub and it sounded great, much better than the Bose setup in my Z. :) And the MX-5 is pretty poo acoustically compared to the 350Z due to the amount of road noise in the cabin.

 

I would never recommend bridging the front speakers together and running them off a single channel. Unless its a very good amp it will not be designed to run two speakers, specially if wired in parallel (would work in series but then its a waste)

 

1 channel PER speaker not set of speakers. If you have a 4 channel amp 2 for the front and 2 bridged for the sub or just powering the speakers.

 

Well my mate reckons my Kenwood should be up to it as it's one of the new breed of digital amps ( http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/pr ... D/details/ ). I will ask him though if he thinks it would be better to disable the rears and concentrate on the fronts instead.

 

What's your view on the stock Bose speakers Rob? Do you think I should look to upgrade them whilst we've got the car in bits or are they generally fine? I mean this both in terms of sound quality and standing up to the abuse of a more powerful amp and HU setup. Bear in mind they're over 5 years old already.

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Well my mate reckons my Kenwood should be up to it as it's one of the new breed of digital amps ( http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/pr ... D/details/ ). I will ask him though if he thinks it would be better to disable the rears and concentrate on the fronts instead.

 

That amp will handle 2Ohm but I would strongly recommend against it. You will also loose left to right control and stereo. Just lots of mono speakers.

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BOSE speakers? Take them out and take a look for yourself. You'll soon replace them!

 

I suspected as much! Ok, I might as well swap those out too! :teeth:

 

That amp will handle 2Ohm but I would strongly recommend against it. You will also loose left to right control and stereo. Just lots of mono speakers.

 

Ah, didn't realise that! :doh: That would do my head in so it's either go for a 2+1 setup or get a 5 channel amp.

 

Ok so I need new speakers (6.5" I believe) and I might as well get a new 10" sub too. ;) Any recommendations anyone? I'm also open to recommendations for a 5 channel amp so I can weigh up whether or not it's worth it over sticking with the 4 channel.

 

Think I might get one of these for the sub:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-3 ... Enclosures

 

:)

 

Thanks for all the info!

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Out of curiosity (and the fact I'm changing my Bose out in the next few weeks), is there any particular make of head unit that only gives half volume when connected to the Bose amp + speakers? Or is it really down to the individual specs of each particular head unit?

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Hi Dan,

 

I'm not entirely sure but I have read a lot of audio posts and noticed that the Pioneer and Alpine units generally suffer from decreased volume. I have recently fitted an Alpine unit and the volume is noticeably lower.

 

I have decent equipment lying around from previous builds so I'm planning to change the door speakers and subwoofer and run an aftermarket amplifier to power them. I will probably disconnect the rear speakers behind the seats.

 

Matt

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Out of curiosity (and the fact I'm changing my Bose out in the next few weeks), is there any particular make of head unit that only gives half volume when connected to the Bose amp + speakers? Or is it really down to the individual specs of each particular head unit?

 

Dan,

I fitted a Kenwood headunit last week (retaining all Bose speakers and Amp) and it goes loud as hell. ;)

 

Not exactly conclusive I know but it seems from other peoples experience that a lot of Pioneers have the volume drop issue.

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Hey Simon,

 

Did you use the signal booster? Strange that yours worked (at full volume) and mine didn't.... I'm quite jealous!!!

 

Also, did you use the RCA's from your new headunit or highlevel output (i.e. did you run the highlevel speaker output into the Bose amp)?

 

Cheers,

Matt

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Hey Simon,

 

Did you use the signal booster? Strange that yours worked (at full volume) and mine didn't.... I'm quite jealous!!!

 

Also, did you use the RCA's from your new headunit or highlevel output (i.e. did you run the highlevel speaker output into the Bose amp)?

 

Cheers,

Matt

 

Matt,

erm, I just plugged it all in and it worked. :p

 

Seriously, no signal booster used. I used the rear pre-outs from the headunit in conjunction with the ICT loom.

Red/White from the ICT connector to the RCA fronts (Headunit), Yellow/Black on the ICT connector to the Rear/Sub RCA (Headunit).

 

Made sure I turned off the internal amp in the headunit and told it to use the RCA outputs for rear speakers and not subwoofer.

 

The headunit is a DPX 503U for reference, so its nothing fancy really.

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Thanks buddy,

 

I done exactly the same, it works perfectly and the fader / balance controls all work as expected, I just lost some volume. My other half can't tell the difference but I can!

 

Oh well, I can be arsed to pull it all out again at this weekend :lol:

 

Btw, did your ariel jack slot into the Alpine ok? The Nissan ariel jack is too wide for my (Alpine) head unit so I need to get a little adaptor. My other half was well impressed. So you've lost the bluetooth control for the phone? yep. so you've lost the radio? Yep, but only for now....

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Hi Dan,

 

I'm not entirely sure but I have read a lot of audio posts and noticed that the Pioneer and Alpine units generally suffer from decreased volume. I have recently fitted an Alpine unit and the volume is noticeably lower.

Bugger, I'm changing to an Alpine unit! :lol:

 

Ah well, I'll just order up one of those boosters and fit that at the same time. Cheers for that Matt, much appreciated.

 

 

*EDIT* Ah, will need an aerial adaptor too, more good info!

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