mick43 Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Having posted previously this problem (and searched) I was pointed to US forum for a possible solution as this was experienced by a US owner Unfortunately the fix wasn't posted so I've pm'd the chap directly and posted asking for an update - but haven't recd a response so far. As I'm not very patient and want a fix asap, here is the elegant summary of problem as posted over there:- Hey Im having a similar problem that you are having. Except for the fact that when im driving in traffic my clutch seems to go down to about half way and stay there. And it stays like that until the car cools down. Im guessing it might be my master cylinder going bad. Any help/advice greatly appreciated. My first approah is to bleed slave cylinder. Is this possible without major surgery ? and then replacement of master or slave (latter means gearbox out) so would really like an accurate diagnosis if possible. much coffee and/or beer for good advice when we meet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJsickboy Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Having posted previously this problem (and searched) I was pointed to US forum for a possible solution as this was experienced by a US owner Unfortunately the fix wasn't posted so I've pm'd the chap directly and posted asking for an update - but haven't recd a response so far. As I'm not very patient and want a fix asap, here is the elegant summary of problem as posted over there:- Hey Im having a similar problem that you are having. Except for the fact that when im driving in traffic my clutch seems to go down to about half way and stay there. And it stays like that until the car cools down. Im guessing it might be my master cylinder going bad. Any help/advice greatly appreciated. My first approah is to bleed slave cylinder. Is this possible without major surgery ? and then replacement of master or slave (latter means gearbox out) so would really like an accurate diagnosis if possible. much coffee and/or beer for good advice when we meet I have heard this is related to the release bearing??? Un doubtedly someone will be able to give you a definitive answer. Does the bite move with the problem or is it just off the top or bottom when this happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I heard of this happening before and it was the slave cylinder, basically the inner seal had blown and the dust seal was retaining the fluid but because the fluid had moved to the dust seal the pedal was less efficient if that makes sense it does to me no doubt you have your checked your fluid level the problem is its expensive because if you take the box off to repair it, you might aswell put a new clutch in get underneath and pull the dust seal on the slave cylinder off, if fluid comes out, then thats your prob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 possible causes slave cylinder seal damaged or broken fork(or the lug the fork holds on to in the gearbox) damaged clutch plates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 thanks to all... - checked fluid and level is ok and clean - when problem occurs clutch works ok, but pedal movement is immediately on clutch biting point. I'm also suspecting seal/fluid as problem only occurs after 45-60mins driving, and then disappears after 30mins if car not used. So heat impacting contaminated fluid - or is this just wishful (ie. cheap fix) diagnosis ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 have you checked the fluid when the clutch does this ? not after ? when it does it, does it try to creep forward if you are in gear with the clutch down and rev the car (no brakes) ? this would suggest sticking plates on the clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Not a big problem mate, Normally a bleed and replace the fluid with some track spec stuff does the trick! A bit of heat wrap would help too! GIXXER sounds like the problems ive had ! hahaha. when you open the salve boot up, watch out as clutch fluid in the eyes hurts! And being trapped under a low car is not fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 good idea to check fluid movement when fault occurs so far when this has happened and then with the clutch down, there is no creep (ie. clutch working ok) and driven for another 30-40 mins without problem except that there isn't any free movement of clutch pedal and it remains just off the floor (this gives very quick gear changes...). I can lift clutch pedal with foot and it then remains in position until I use clutch again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 cheers again.... will bleed system at weekend... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Not a big problem mate, Normally a bleed and replace the fluid with some track spec stuff does the trick! A bit of heat wrap would help too! GIXXER sounds like the problems ive had ! hahaha. when you open the salve boot up, watch out as clutch fluid in the eyes hurts! And being trapped under a low car is not fun! Thats what i was thinking tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 ok - last question for now... is slave cylinder position obvious once you get under car and bleed nipple on slave cylinder ? (last time I did this it was on a Mk 1 Cortina !!) cheers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 ok - last question for now... is slave cylinder position obvious once you get under car and bleed nipple on slave cylinder ? (last time I did this it was on a Mk 1 Cortina !!) cheers... somwhere under here d/l a manual http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 many thanks Gixxer for your patience and advise - I realise it's hard work looking after newbies on car forums... too many questions (that have probably been asked before you're a credit to this club thanks to others as well........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 many thanks Gixxer for your patience and advise - I realise it's hard work looking after newbies on car forums... too many questions (that have probably been asked before you're a credit to this club thanks to others as well........ NO PROBLEM MATE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 The slave is on the out side of the gear box on the passenger side. Bleed nipple is obvious when you down there mate! Word of caution mate, when bleeding the clutch the master tank empty's alot fast than you think! keep it topped up becasue if you suck air in its a long job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 gixxer is pretty much spot on with where to start if the car is an 02-06, the master and slave are very easy to see. Slave is right on the driver side lower frame rail, right adjacent to the trans. If the car is an 07 +, then it is inside the transmission housing itself...much more involved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 Just to let everyone know. My problem was fixed by following this advice, ie. bleeding/changing clutch fluid. From others experiencing this problem as well I'm assuming it's not a service item ? This should be the case as my fluid was old and contaminated - hence it broke down with heat. Did a 350 mile round trip after fix and all ok Note. Bleeding was a bit tricky... once pressure was released on slave cylinder clutch pedal went to the floor and then stayed there !! you have to lift pedal back up and pump gently back down (in fact it goes down by itself !). Releasing bleed nipple and working up and down, with someone else keeping master cyl full soon had all old fluid removed and working perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunGodRA Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 The slave is on the out side of the gear box on the passenger side. Bleed nipple is obvious when you down there mate! Word of caution mate, when bleeding the clutch the master tank empty's alot fast than you think! keep it topped up becasue if you suck air in its a long job. if the car is an 02-06, the master and slave are very easy to see. Slave is right on the driver side lower frame rail, right adjacent to the trans. I am bleeding my clutch this weekend - gonna be tricky getting under there with only a trolly jack and axel stands etc - but is the bleeder on the passenger or driver side (as above quotes conflict)? And is it more towards the front of the car or the midddle (only have 2x axel stands - do i use on both front wheels or 1xfront 1xrear on the appropriate side) Many thanks for any help - Dave ps 02 model JDM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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