Digsy Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Much as I hate to compliment a "blue", this is a top job mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prescience Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Much as I hate to compliment a "blue", this is a top job mate. As a red, your expertise lies in the removal of the wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toffeeman Posted August 26, 2008 Author Share Posted August 26, 2008 Much as I hate to compliment a "blue", this is a top job mate. It must have killed you to say that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Much as I hate to compliment a "blue", this is a top job mate. It must have killed you to say that!! We don't have a "gritted teeth" smiley.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarnie Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Don't forget this Toffeman: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toffeeman Posted August 26, 2008 Author Share Posted August 26, 2008 Don't forget this Toffeman: How could I forget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbie j Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 how long would it take a garage to do this? 2hours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmJak Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Just did this repair myself, and I started at 10am ie reversing car into garage and getting everything ready, finishing at just before 4pm ie tidying up and giving car a test drive. This guide was spot on, but I also referenced a guide on my350z.com and referred to the service manuals and TSB's for bits of extra info, and to clarify bits and bats. Car is not clicking anymore Also if attempting this yourself, make sure you have a torque wrench that goes up to 240nm. The biggest £90 one in Halfords was only up to 200nm, and I had to borrow one from a mechanic friend, that cost him £300! Interestingly (if that is a real word) I went into Nissan to see about buying replacment bolts as per the service manual. It seems that a TSB printed in 2005, which Nissan wouldn't let me have a copy of, gives a list of chassis numbers, if your car is between one set is is one fault, the other set a different fault. These 2 main faults which cause the clicky axle depend on which factory your car was made in. The Nissan fella said that there's a factory in Japan, and another which no-one is allowed to say. . .TELL ME. He didn't. Anyone know? I'm curious now. Anyway, the faults from one factory were to do with the bolts attaching the drive shaft to the LSD. If they are replaced then the fault is repaired. The other factory had faults to do with the CV joint, which mine fell into. This is probably why they recommend replacing the bolts each time in case they are the fault. I didn't and it's fine. Obviously this information coming from Nissan it could be total drivel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roneyk Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 On the 2nd picture in this repair, can anyone tell me what exactly the pipe at the bottom with the small bit of red tape is, and how can this be removed. Im replacing the rear wheel hub, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinmac Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Just to save everyone having to go back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 On the 2nd picture in this repair, can anyone tell me what exactly the pipe at the bottom with the small bit of red tape is, and how can this be removed. Im replacing the rear wheel hub, thanks. That is your handbrake cable mate and it does not require removing when removing the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aust350z Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 If I'm looking at my CV Joint per the 8th and 10th pictures on the 1st page is it an issue if that thin bit of metal the runs around the joint closest to the threaded area is bent? Does this make any difference to the function or fit of the piece? Ok or best to replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aust350z Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Bump. Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doris Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 cool post, just done mine yesterday, took 2 hours, no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harman350z Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 Very good guide here, and when i get some parts i will attempt this myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 After doing this job myself I thought it would be worth adding some more tips to help anyone else out. It's not a particularly difficult job at all. Worst part is whacking the old joint with hammer to release it and jacking the car up securely without damaging something! I think next time I'll use ramps and then replace one ramp with an axle stand under the sill/jacking point with a block of wood. What I'd give for the use of a workshop with a ramp. Make sure you have a long socket head lever bar to remove the hub nut. It's on tight and you will strain yourself with a short bar. 3ft should do it easily. Get a deep hub nut socket too. You can often hire these from local tool/car spares shops. Don't use your torque wrench - you'll screw it up! Here's the best tip. There's no need to remove the brake calipers at all. Instead, disconnect "both" stabilizer (ARB) drop links from the stabilizer (long 14mm socket needed) and then just rotate the stabilizer bar upwards. This will leave plenty of room for the driveshaft to be lowered out of the vehicle. I didn't even tie the drop links out of the way. Removing the inner cv joint nuts and bolts: put the hand brake on and stick it in first gear to help stop the drive shaft rotating whilst undoing the bolts. Take it out of gear and hand brake off to rotate for the next nut and bolt ;-) Use a spanner and ratched so that you don't completely load the gearbox when undoing the bolts. I used a black and decker work mate to hold the driveshaft whilst whacking the old cv joint off with a hammer. Make sure you hit the inner section rather than the outer section. When putting the new joint on, make certain that you hold the drive shaft in the work mate or vice. Do not stand the drive shaft on it's end and hit with hammer and block of wood - you will probably pop the cap off the end of the inner cv joint! Make sure you have located the outer cv joint onto the splines before hitting home with club hammer and block of wood. Put the hub nut onto the new joint to protect the threads even further before using the club hammer. I usually put the nut on reverse to protect the flats of the nut. Put it all back the way it came off and torque up according to workshop manual. I go for the mid way torque setting rather than the min or max. NOTE: one of the TSBs for this job state to torque the hub nut to 240 Nm. Any higher and the "incident" as they call it may reoccur. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Can be done in 2 to 3 hours per side. Hope that's informative. I couldn't see any difference between my old and new CV joints. I find it hard to believe the problem is the flange faces. It must be a problem with the joint itself. But then how come the problem clears for a while just by rotating the drive shaft 180 deg? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjones6699 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 can this be done under warranty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 The TSBs only offer rotation of the cv joint by 180 deg and greasing the flange and that's all the dealer is likely to offer you. It's not guaranteed to fix the problem and if it doesn't and you are still in warranty I'd push for replacement parts. The trouble is that the consensus on the board is that the dealers are not supplying/fitting the "uprated" CV joint so even a dealer replacement may fail at some point. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil354 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 can this be done under warranty? I tried to get this work done under my warrenty last week, but it wasn't covered as the part had not "failed". They said they do not replace parts when they are only worn. Im just going to put up with mine. There is no way I'm attempting to do it myself as I know i will get it horribly wrong no matter how simple it might be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbramble Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 Thanks for the guide. More than anything it gave me an idea how to go about it before I actually got under the car. I will say that for me there was absolutely no need to remove the brake caliper, just undoing the ARB drop link top mount gave me enough space to slide the drive shaft out. Very very easy job (thanks for a change Nissan) 30 mins to 1 hour tops, allow for an hour if you have never done it before. I am click free HOOORAYY!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aust350z Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 If I was installing Brembo brakes on my Touring and want to replace the dust shields (I like doing things right all the way) I take this would be the ideal time to install the replacement CV Joints given the dust sheilds have to be removed during this process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThyJones Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 does anyone know what nissan classify this problem as? Just because my warranty states they would only fix this unders warranty if nissan classify it as a "sudden mechanical failure" which seems a bit of a cop out really.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThyJones Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 i know the greasing doesnt actually fix the problem, but is the process pretty much the same? just remove, rotate, grease and wait til it happens again? I'm a little short of funds until I get married and am considering the cheap option to last a few months before doing it properly.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.