Vertakill Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14747 Continuing on from that thread above, my car lost all power today on the motorway. Firstly, speedo + all dials weren't working at the time of this incident. This problem has been fairly intermittent and I can't figure out the reason behind it. Got petrol last night and on driving to station the speedo/dials all died - no biggy I thought, considering it KEEPS happening, Drove to work this morning, still no speedo/dials. Go home for lunch to show my prev car to a possible buyer, and the Zed loses ALL power while on a motorway going 70mph. Tried dropping a gear or two and revving - nothing. This is literally pedal pushed all the way down and not a peep from engine. Free wheeled between a shitload of traffic cones (road works) and into a make-shift hard shoulder. Putting it into neutral meant I could rev to my hearts content, putting it into ANY gear and revving resulted in nothing. Eventually the car managed to move forward a little and reverse a little. Thought wahey it's back. Then was thinking about merging back onto busy motorway and realised I'd lost all power again. Thank god I didn't try to merge! Tried turning car off, left it sit for 20 seconds, turned on - wouldn't start. 2 hours later (sold other car wahoo) came back. Battery was at 14 volts (first time I was able to check voltage seeing as my speedo/computers were dead) according to a meter and it started first time. Was able to roll forward and back, but then it lost the ability to rev while in gear yet again. (Read that the hotter the starter, the more juice needed to turn the engine, hence why it worked when left to cool down) Left it idling for a while while we rang around for advice and when we came back the battery was at 8volts, then later 7 volts. So it would seem that the battery isn't getting a charge and is slowly being depleted. Turned car off and it wouldn't turn on again (voltage obviously too low), then the windows were stuck down and I couldn't get them back up which meant the alarm was constantly going off. I had my bro come out and his car was there but I didn't want to risk charging the battery to the max and chancing driving home because Im sure eventually it'd die again, assuming that was the problem. It's been towed away now is on it's way back to my house for further scrutiny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmJak Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Wouldn't like to be the person who cleans your grundies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 Lol. I love the car but I've had some awful luck since getting it a few months ago. Pretty much every fortnight I've had a problem so I'm convinced it's cursed. Planning on selling it when I sort everything out (seem to be finding more problems than I'm fixing though!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 In case anyone was interested, it looks likely that it's the alternator. Car is ok while running off jump leads and another car, but as soon as leads are disconnected and you start revving or putting on electrics, the voltage just shoots down. (Reading voltage from a meter, seeing as my speedo/dials are all dead..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Very scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixy Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 i once had exactly the same problem as that - however, it was a fiat uno not a Z! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 defo sounds like the alternator not giving a charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 Anyone got a rough price of an alternator, or if there's anything I should look out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 try Chris at JDMPerformance, he has access to Nissan catalogue but can get parts cheaper. Also BigPhil at ESR may be able to help. Evene cheaper if yoy can get a recon one but I wouldn't know where to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I would not be so quick to replace the alternator. While it is a wear item, I have never seen a Z use an alternator yet. The batteries though I find have an average life of about 40k miles or about 3.5 years when driven in mixed climates. Factory battery is quite inexpensive too. Assuming the battery is good, the next thing I would look at is a possible grounding issue, particularly to the alternator itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Cheers for that Adam. All the points indicated to an alternator going and everyone agreed to that BAR a guy that specialises in alternators nearby. He said that he'd never expect a 350z's alternator to go when only 60k miles have been done. He'd asked about any newly installed electrical items and I have a 2nd stereo in my car that was in it when I bought it, that has no power going to it. I've also got a mysterious DVD player (prev owner didnt tell me about it) underneath passenger seat that's wired up to something, and also a Harmon Kardon iPod connector too. Not to mention a REALLY annoying Clifford alarm (made a thread about it continuously going off on here b4) that could've been badly installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Most people I know that have had Clifford alarms have disconnected them for being noisy and rubbish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Cheers for that Adam. All the points indicated to an alternator going and everyone agreed to that BAR a guy that specialises in alternators nearby. He said that he'd never expect a 350z's alternator to go when only 60k miles have been done. He'd asked about any newly installed electrical items and I have a 2nd stereo in my car that was in it when I bought it, that has no power going to it. I've also got a mysterious DVD player (prev owner didnt tell me about it) underneath passenger seat that's wired up to something, and also a Harmon Kardon iPod connector too. Not to mention a REALLY annoying Clifford alarm (made a thread about it continuously going off on here b4) that could've been badly installed. Given what Adam has said and the host of electrical add-ons you have the poor battery has had a hard time and is perhaps calling it a day?? Way back (before ECU's and the like came along) I remember a frayed earthing strap (not broken) from the engine to the chassis being the culprit of cutting out. So Adam's other suggestion may also be worth thoroughly checking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Yeah it's getting to that point Stew. It auto-alarms after 40 seconds of the key being out of the ignition, but it doesn't put the snaps down (in case you've left your car in there).... so tell me this. Wtf is the point in alarming an unlocked car which has no immobiliser? So anytime I get petrol and someones in car and I, by habit, take the keys with me, the alarm goes off as there's someone inside. Anyways, my speedometer has been acting the maggot the past few weeks and 'The Alternator Guy' says that I should find the fault with the speedo first and then work through it. He mentioned that the battery is checked by something speedo related when the car is started and if my speedo was acting funny, it may be uncessarily draining power from battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Yep I think you guys are right. I'm just on here looking for some indication where the alternator fuse would be, and where the fuses for the interior would be. Anyone have any ideas, or even better, a diagram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 there are fuses located in the battery compartment (passenger side on US cars, might be drivers side on yours), as well as relays, but again, I've never once seen one go bad. Really quick test if the alternator is working is - get a voltmeter. With the car running, you should see roughly 13-14 volts at idle. There is a ground wire IIRC that goes from the alternator to the chassis, and also the main power lead for the alternator. Make sure those connections are tight, and free of any oxidation. Also check the battery terminals to make sure they are sufficiently tight as well. I'd almost bet in the end its a very very simple issue, but tracking it down might just take some legwork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 also fwiw I've had a Clifford in my car for years now, 0 issues. 9 times out of 10, it's in the install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdermonkey1978 Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 could just be the brush pack in the alternator with the zener diode arrangement in, used to replace loads of them in my last job , 9 times out of 10 with alternators its the brush pack that fails... failing that next port of call would be the fuse and relay , then i would consider an alternator, but would be a good idea to charge the battery up to full and take it to a garage to drop test it for you . might be worth finding what the ampage draw upon the battery is when ignition is fully of also and if there is something drawing your precious volts disconnecting the offending items one by one... electrical gremlins can be a nightmare and take time to sort out properly, but just stick with it, you can bet your life on it if it isnt the alternator it will only be a 5 min job IF you knew what it were .... all diagnosis im afraid .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Ok a little update, and some success. First, big thanks for the replies, I appreciate the help. Upon looking under the steering wheel for the fuse box we were confronted by a mass of wires that weren't properly tucked under. Looks like the previous owner was installing or uninstalling something and was sloppy. After reseating the wires the speedo came back and it turns out that anytime the speedo was off, the alternator wasn't charging the battery. So, normally the speedo problem was intermittent and a couple potholes later (Irish @*!# roads!) the speedo was back... so it never got to the stage it got on Monday. Reason it died on Monday was that I took a short trip to the petrol station on Sunday night when the speedo died, and I travelled into work and back home for lunch on Monday afternoon with no speedo (so running completely off the battery). We were actually able to cut the power to the engine at will, eventually, when we found the block of wires that was slightly lose. It was a block behind the main power box that was controlling all of this. So it just goes to show how important that everything is in order down there! Note: 'We' refers to my sister's boyfriend resolving all the problems and me standing with my hands in my pockets trying to learn from him! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 You mean you never even made him tea or coffee????? :scare: Glad you sorted it and (sort of) glad it was the previous owners dodgy exploits that caused it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 No lol, I'm such a knob. I owe him loads of @*!# after all the help he's given me over the last couple cars. Yeah, the prev owner(s) must've been doing some stupid crap over the years. And thanks again! So happy, I can stop driving my dads 02 Camry. Although I was beginning to enjoy the soft boat-like ride over the last couple days. It's a 2.4lr aswell, but it consistently get's in the high 40's for MPG. Oh well back to the Zed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vertakill Posted July 10, 2008 Author Share Posted July 10, 2008 Ohhh god here we go again... Left the car running for about 30 mins after we got it started yesterday. The battery only got to around 13.5 volts and wouldn't go any higher. So turned it off, gave it a quick wash and when I was finished I was going to go drive it around a bit to get the battery up as much as possible, but my mother had opened one of the doors for a few mins and the courtesy light + beeping (to tell you your door is open) was going off. Car wouldnt start, battery was at about 9volts. Jumped it again and took it for a drive, got it to about 14volts and then left it home. Went to go into work this morning and I was thinking this may or may not work.. and it didn't. Battery is down around the 9volt mark again. Since Monday, the battery has been killed twice or three times so I'm not overly surprised. Any battery spec requirements I should look into for a replacement? I only know about if it fits and it's the correct power outage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Ohhh god here we go again... Left the car running for about 30 mins after we got it started yesterday. The battery only got to around 13.5 volts and wouldn't go any higher. So turned it off, gave it a quick wash and when I was finished I was going to go drive it around a bit to get the battery up as much as possible, but my mother had opened one of the doors for a few mins and the courtesy light + beeping (to tell you your door is open) was going off. Car wouldnt start, battery was at about 9volts. Jumped it again and took it for a drive, got it to about 14volts and then left it home. Went to go into work this morning and I was thinking this may or may not work.. and it didn't. Battery is down around the 9volt mark again. Since Monday, the battery has been killed twice or three times so I'm not overly surprised. Any battery spec requirements I should look into for a replacement? I only know about if it fits and it's the correct power outage. I would suggest you do as powdermonkey has indicated and get a decent auto electrian to check things out. If your battery is draining as you have described you might find a new one does exactly the same and you might then have wasted money unnecessarily. At the very least see if you can borrow another battery (of the right spec) and see if the same happens to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 good result but as suggested with the battery being jumped a few times, it may be past it best now. I think some tyre places or halfords do a free battery check, perhaps worth checking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 good result but as suggested with the battery being jumped a few times, it may be past it best now. I think some tyre places or halfords do a free battery check, perhaps worth checking +1 Yep sounds like battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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