Wolf24h Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 As a proud Z owner now I'd like to install an oil pressure sensor to monitor the engine and worry less about the gallery gaskets or to know if(when?) it's time to fix them just to be safe and avoid running the engine with the pressure below the spec. I chose to install a tee to NPT adapter and install it where the OEM pressure switch is located right next to the oil filter. The Nissan switch is 1/8 BSPT, the new sensor I'm going to install is 1/8 NPT so I bought something like this: According to the picture it should all work. I tried to test fit the sensor to the adapter while I'm still waiting for other things I ordered to arrive and I'm not sure if it's right because it doesn't feel like it. I know the NPT thread shouldn't go all the way in as it is a tapered thread but it literally feels like I'm forcing it in, could only make 0.5 turn with my hand and 1.5 turn after placing the adapter in my vice, applied some oil and a big ratchet wrench until I decided to stop just in case I was going to break it. I also ordered some teflon tape to seal the NPT thread but if it only goes in a few millimetres I'm not sure if it's even applicable. I never worked with such threads so maybe that's how it's supposed to be. All the parts had good feedback on eBay so I guessed it'll work but I feel I'm missing something obvious or I received a wrong item. I didn't try and install it into the engine with the OEM sensor yet so I'm not sure about that, I only heard that the BSPT thread shouldn't be so hard to turn and to be careful as it's really easy to mess the upper oil pan up, 15Nm with a torque wrench recommended? I'm sure at least a few people did this before so I guess it's better to ask before I regret doing it Some extra pictures: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 These tapered threaded components should not be forced, especially when you are screwing the adaptor into the aluminium engine sump because if you do then the sump will definitely crack. The switch should not be forced when fitting to the adaptor so you have an issue there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 (edited) Have you checked the thread size is right on the adaptor and sender? It might be the supplier has got stock mixed up? National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart (figures are imperial, so multiple by 25.4) I've ordered an a pillar trim and some gauge housings I can fix-fill-trim to mount an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge, so interested in reading how you get on with this mod. What sender did you buy? Edited January 1 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 (edited) L1 for a 1/8 NPT is 0.1615". Multiply by 25.4 = 4.1. So you should be able to screw the sender in to a depth of 4.1 mm by hand. The pitch of 1/8 NPT is 0.03". So multiply by 25.4 = 0.762. 4. 1 / 0.762 = 5.3. So hand tight the sender should be engaged 5.3 pitches. If you have it use some engineers blue in the thread then hand tighten and remove and measure the witness marks. Edited January 2 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf24h Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 I'm going to leave it for now and do some more research, don't want to rush it just to regret it and cry after I crack the upper oil pan, saw that it happens quite often. I learn something new about it everyday, the weather now isn't so great anyway so I'll wait it out so I don't have to roll around in the mud under the car I contacted the seller on eBay and they'll send me a new adapter, the sensor and gauge is some cheap set for like £15 so nothing too crazy, but could argue that it's not some advanced tech to justify sets going for like 10x more. Someone on Reddit just informed me that the OEM switch seen on the photo by the oil filter isn't needed and can just be unplugged, so I'm thinking about buying an adapter without a tee like this: Would make things simpler although the OE switch could function as a fail-safe (switches if it goes below 8psi?) in case the extra sensor fails. I decided to go with a sealant paste instead of the teflon tape too to avoid excessive pressure in the thread inside the aluminium pan. This feels way more complex than one would think, there are tons of posts on the Internet about cracking the pan while screwing the sender in, makes me think if I should really do this myself Damned if I do, damned if I don't, without the sensor I'll wonder if I'm killing the engine unknowingly every time I drive it, I can't believe Nissan decided to ditch the pressure gauge for a clock. In the end I might get someone to do it for me although I enjoy doing things myself, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Paying 1/2 hours of labour is cheaper than the upper oil pan swap 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 (edited) I'd guess the existing OE oil sender will power the cluster warning light, and also be an input for reduced power / limp home logic (the IPDM). Low risk approach you could always buy an oil filter sandwich plate and put the sender in that and blank off the other ports. Edited January 2 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf24h Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Thanks for suggesting the sandwich plate, I think that's what I'll go with (D1 Spec). Doing the research I also found that filters suitable for the GT-R fit 370Z and are longer so that might benefit the engine by bigger filtration surface (was going to get Bosch P7001/1 but will get P2041 instead). I just hope it's all going to fit as I'm expecting to find the OEM oil cooler once I crawl under a car. It's a pre-facelift but 63 plate so there's a chance it has revised gallery gaskets anyway 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf24h Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 It is a tight squeeze in there! Barely could slide under the car with the small ramps but managed, couldn't even fit a torque wrench to fasten the sandwich plate with the factory cooler in place, had to trust the feeling and thread lock to do the job but so far so good. After warming up the engine no leaks found and shows over 20 psi at idle and 50 psi at 2k RPM which is satisfactory. Took it for a test drive, going to check for leaks again tomorrow and put the undertray back. Pulled the cable around the back of the engine and through the cabin filter behind the glovebox, the cable length was just enough, still have to power it but for now putting bare cables into a lighter socket works 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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