Davox01 Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 (edited) My Cars failed its MOT on corroded rear and front sub frames. What am I looking at parts and labour, have been advised the parts needed to be new but they can be aftermarket. Having a problem even finding them only place i can find is ebay. I've had advisory's on the rear W brace, kidney brackets before so i know its pretty rusty underneath. Thanks for any help. Edited September 30 by Davox01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 Get a second opinion from an indy 350Z specialist as the rear sub frame on the 350 is aluminium so can not rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 (edited) Just my two penny worth... new to Zs but not new to mechanics.... Parts don't have to be new, they have to be in a suitable condition to pass an MOT. Something like this looks okay (assuming its the right one) degrease it, wire brush on a drill, rust convertor paint, a couple of coats of chassis black / wax spray in the box, and its ready to be fitted NISSAN 350Z MK1 Z33 2003 - 2009 FRONT SUBFRAME 76386 | eBay Depends on your experience / tools / work area if you could DIY a swap. I reckon it would take me a long weekend for the front if I did it myself Rear is aluminium, as post above and this clearly shows, your MOT inspector has had a mare with that one 2005 NISSAN 350Z V6 Z33 3.5 PETROL MK1 3DRS COUPE REAR SUBFRAME (VQ35DE) | eBay W brace and kidney brackets are very easy swaps, it would take me no more than a couple of hours if I did it myself My best guess a garage would want maybe 2 days? Edited September 30 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted September 30 Author Share Posted September 30 Garage said it was a newish regulation, can't remember his exact words but something along the lines of critical structural components have to be new. I've changed garages as I've moved to the other side of town, didn't realise when i booked the MOT that the new garage don't actually do the MOT, they send it off somewhere local, so they haven't looked at it themselves. Going to take it back to the other garage, last year they told them the W brace and kidneys would need replacing soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 There are 2 front sub frames so you will have to identify which one. There is the engine cross member that Keith D has mentioned and there is this one below: The engine cross member can be a mare if the bolts are rusted and seized. The one below is an hour's work on a ramp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 (edited) As I say I've never heard of the new regulation that parts must be new, its worth having a read of the MOT regulation yourself to check. Subframes are covered by Appendix A so section 10 Acceptable Methods of Repair applies MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) We know the inspector has made one error already, personally I'd take it somewhere else for a retest, and I'd ask them if they can take me under the car and show me exactly what parts have failed. Take a photo and maybe experienced owners on here can advise further. Edited October 1 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 Absolutely I'm going back to my old my place, they do the MOT, they don't outsource so it should all be good, they've got me through before. Also had this failure. Going to go out tonight and find a brick wall to test the lights. Not sure what they mean by rear headlamp though. The rear lights don't auto level do they? Nearside Rear Headlamp levelling device inoperative levelling device broken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 They mean that the front headlamp levelling device is situated at the rear of the car. It is located on the end of the rear anti-roll bar on the NSR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 garage advised me it would be the motor in the headlight thats gone. would that be the probably cause, so just get a nearside headight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 Best to get clarity from the garage. The headlight levelling system on the rear of the car is a common failure and is visible when carrying out the MOT I have never come across a failed "motor" inside a Xenon headlight, and anyway, how would the garage know if the motor in the headlamp was faulty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 Think most of my understating issues are due to the garage outsourcing the MOT to another garage. Think they are just reading back to me what the MOT certificate states and making assumptions. 🤨 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 19 Author Share Posted October 19 Got it up on a ramp with my old garage. Head light leveller was disconnected so that should be simple. Front subframe isn't the engine one. Failed points highlighted in yellow chalk. The reason for failing the rear is I think the board assembly rear floor? First picture, yellow chalk shows where it failed. https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/12520-350z-nissan-oem-board-assembly-rear-floor.html The garages main concern with fixing this is that so many other rusted parts need to come out to access it, its going to take a lot of work (snapped bolts etc) and the other components may break, so I might be looking at a couple of grand in parts and labour I was going to sell next year and had ~£5k in my head (90k 03 plate), so at this point i'm thinking of trying to get a quick cheap sale in to someone who can fix it themselves as it seems borderline uneconomical to save with labour . MOT runs out on Sunday 27th so its still drivable it someone want to get it back with out a trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 Why all the drama? As I have said, the front subframe is an easy and cheap fix. The rear is even cheaper, and as it is not structural, just remove that corroded panel as it is not required, it will fall apart without having to dismantle any other parts. job done, now go and enjoy your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 (edited) It all looks easily fixable to me, although if you get a garage to do it the labour will be high. At the rear it wants kidney brackets and the flimsy cross panel (or just chuck that away), and at the front the subframe (earlier post from Alex) Honestly a weekend at home on jack stands will do it. The rest of it looks like it just needs a jet wash down, wire brush, coat of rust convertor, and spray wax. If you do it yourself spray WD40 over every nut bolt and screw your touching at least twice over 24 hours before starting, and don't gun them off use a breaker bar gently to break the corrosion first. JMHO Edited October 19 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 19 Author Share Posted October 19 (edited) I can't do the work i live in the city don't have a drive way or garage and I'm in the middle of home renovation so I've got enough on my plate. 2 garages have now failed the car on the rear portion. If it doesn't get fixed then I'll be going through this every year. I don't think there are any 350z specialists near me (Brighton). Edited October 19 by Davox01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith D Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 (edited) So what outcome are you looking for? Repair, sell, scrap? All 3 are easy (sorry if this sounds blunt) Edited October 19 by Keith D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 You will not have to go through this every year. Simply replace the front x/member with a rust free second hand one (which I have in stock) and dispose of the rear panel. Job done, simple. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 19 Author Share Posted October 19 its disposing of the rear one that's the problem, 2 garages have failed it on that piece so I'd need to a convince them its not structural before asking them to remove it. Are there any technical drawings I could refer them to? and if it is just ripped out rather than removed properly, then i'd imagine it won't be a very clean job and there will be remnants of its that could be failed in the future. In terms of repair sell/ scrap, thats the question isn't it. It feel like repairing is going to be 1-2 grand at this point, but things can escalate. I already have £600 worth of braces/brakets to go on + i'll need the front one. And there is always the risk of overuns Its weighing up the cost of that v's the cost of selling it without an MOT compared to with an MOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 To remove the rear corroded panel cleanly and to fit a rust free front brace, In my shop I would charge a total of £150.00 inclusive. Best to get a garage to remove the panel who is not carrying out the MOT test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dipper Posted October 20 Share Posted October 20 Yeah I'm in northern ireland so slightly different mot set up here. But I failed mine on the rear cross member mentioned. I bought a new one. But seen that it would be a mare to fit. So I just ripped the old one out and never replaced it. Fitted new kidney brackets and a whiteline w brace. And took it to a different mot test center. They have a look. They see shiny new parts. It's passes. Even if they've mentioned "rear cross member" most mechanics are not familiar with 350z. They can just see if it's rusty or not. If it ain't present. It ain't rusty. And it won't fail. Every 350z owner bins them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davox01 Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 On 19/10/2024 at 12:22, ZMANALEX said: To remove the rear corroded panel cleanly and to fit a rust free front brace, In my shop I would charge a total of £150.00 inclusive. Best to get a garage to remove the panel who is not carrying out the MOT test. A question on removing it, the Torqen page says of the rear floor assembly 'This the panel that the member stays bolt on to.' I've brought replacement Rear Suspension Member Stay Brackets can these still be used and bolted to the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 4 minutes ago, Davox01 said: A question on removing it, the Torqen page says of the rear floor assembly 'This the panel that the member stays bolt on to.' I've brought replacement Rear Suspension Member Stay Brackets can these still be used and bolted to the car YES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 And B4 you ask: https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=how+to+replace+kidney+brackets+on+350Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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