Red Zed Redemption

[Dipper]

So I bought an ALMOST set of coilovers. A set of BCs for the 350z. They were going really cheap. But are missing some parts. Ie. the rear dampers! (Lol) I've got the adjustable rear springs and seats.

Now I contacted bc to see if i could buy separately and they were looking  well over 500 pound just for the rear damper assy (non true coilovers)

So I was exploring other options, For rear damping. The Tein enduro pro plus seem to have a a rear damper that you can adjust too. And I can get a pair for like 300 euro. So I might go down this route. Any thoughts? Unless some random is breaking a set of BCs. ?

Edited October 27, 2024 by Dipper

[davey_83]

Not sure about the coilover situation, might be a waiting game until you come across a rear set of dampers. 

 

I copied you with the JDM heater controls for my 05' and love them, matches the ally gear knob and vent surrounds also.

 

[Dipper]

On 01/11/2024 at 12:20, davey_83 said:

Not sure about the coilover situation, might be a waiting game until you come across a rear set of dampers. 

 

I copied you with the JDM heater controls for my 05' and love them, matches the ally gear knob and vent surrounds also.

 

Looking sweet my man!

[Dipper]

I realise I'm jumping around a bit. A few half finished jobs on the go But currently the car is on axle stands with a few plans for winter fixes. So i picked up the ultraracing front brace and I'm halfway through removing the old rusty one. It was going ok untill I rounded a bolt. (Despite being really carefull, using 6 point sockets and a gently gently approach)

Anyway, I had some extractor sockets from when I was doing the kidney brackets.(didn't end up using them there) and with out much expectations I hammered one on. Have to say I am soooo impressed.  Hanging off it with the breaker bar. It held fast and removed the bolt. 100% my new favourite tool.

[Zalas]

Nice work! What brand were they? Irwin? 

Normally I end up snapping the bolt shaft before rounding the head Chinesium much?

 

Mine's been on axle stands for the last three weeks waiting for the droplinks to be adjusted under load and the outer tierods tightened ... give it another 2 months and I might get around to it X5 arms and e92 subframes are first jobs. Sad.

Edited November 22, 2024 by Zalas

[Keith D]

Bolt extractors are one of those tools you don't use for years and then for one rounded rusted bolt they are worth every penny.  Mine are Minotaur brand.  Never heard of the brand before I bought them but have found them unbreakable.

Edited November 22, 2024 by Keith D

[Dipper]

On 22/11/2024 at 10:34, Zalas said:

Nice work! What brand were they? Irwin? 

Normally I end up snapping the bolt shaft before rounding the head Chinesium much?

 

Mine's been on axle stands for the last three weeks waiting for the droplinks to be adjusted under load and the outer tierods tightened ... give it another 2 months and I might get around to it X5 arms and e92 subframes are first jobs. Sad.

Just a cheap brand off amazon. I think they are "Gunpla" so even more surprised they worked. But even if they are cheap. Couldn't fault them in this instance. 

I've had to order a blow torch as the big 19mm nuts are well stuck. 

I've heard about a few people breaking the captive threaded studs these attach to. So not taking any risks. Heat required....

[Dipper]

A few steps closer today. I managed to get the big m14 nuts off the front sub frame. Without breaking the captive studs.  (They were really on there) required the blow torch and the big breaker bar to get them moving. The rest of the m10 bolts came off without too much bother. 

So front subframe is now off. The ultra racing one ready to go on.

I bought new hardware too. 

For reference. You need:

-two m14 nuts. 1.5 fine thread. 

-six m10 bolts with 1.25 fine thread. (25mm long)

I've mocked up the new brace. But I'm going to brush up and go over some areas with rust converter and a touch of paint before full reassembly.

Also I've ordered new inner and outer tie rods before anyone mentions the state they are in!(shocking really, how did they pass mot?)

 

 

[Zalas]

Looking good! Massive difference. How were the bushes in the banana arms? It's a never ending saga isn't it - I started with that brace ended up replacing the bearings, outer/inner rods, multiple patches of rusted component and still not done 

[Dipper]

Oh 100%. Most all moving parts down there need a refresh. Banana arms bushing seem ok. I think at least one has been replaced, before my ownership. The lower control arm bushing on one side looks a bit worse for wear mind you. It's probably going to be added to the list. (The list that never stops growing)

Edited December 4, 2024 by Dipper

[Dipper]

So In my standard fashion I'm still bouncing around a loada jobs. 

Finally got round to cleaning up some of the front  subframe before final fit. Rust converter on. And while waiting for it to work and later painting it. I gave the inner and outer tie rods a change. The old ones were looking pretty rusty and not inspiring confidence. I had to saw the old ones in half to get the rubber boots off too. As they were so seized together as one. Once all the parts are on it get a propper alignment too. Just gauged length of them off the old ones for now.

Edited December 29, 2024 by Dipper

[MONKEYSOCKS]

Are they oem mate?

[Dipper]

2 hours ago, MONKEYSOCKS said:

Are they oem mate?

A mixture of Moog and Tarmac sportz brand. Moog for the inners. Tarmacsportz for the outers.

[Dipper]

A few more bits done today. Still working on the front end. Suspension. Old drop links and anti roll bar off. New Whiteline ones on. Bit of rust converter painted on here and there too. And a lick of paint to the front subframe. Once it's dry the new ultra racing subframe going back on. 

Edited December 30, 2024 by Dipper

[Dipper]

While it was up in the air. I treated the car to a quick oil change and filter change. Never ceases to amaze me how small the oil filter is.

Added a red magnetic drain plug while I was at it.

Edited January 5 by Dipper

[Dipper]

Next up was the front coilovers. All these Jobs by the way, I've never done them before. I'm just flying ahead here with a mixture of youtube videos, naivety and misplaced confidence.  But so far things are going well. Electrics unclipped from the strut brace,

Strut brace off. Disconnect drop link. Unbolt the old shock/spring tower from the top and the big bolt on the bottom. Not forgetting to disconnect the brake lines and sensor wires from the old shock.

And lean on the hub to get it out. Installation was straightforward.  But adjusting to the correct height. Oh my God. What a seige. Took about 4 times wheel off and on to get it near correct. At least I can measure now and just match it to the other side. As for the damper settings. I just set it to 16 of 32 (halfway) and will adjust as required. 

Edited January 5 by Dipper

[davey_83]

All very lovely updates, I bet she sat nice and high at that setting for the coilovers. Nice bit of weight saving too upgrading to the BC's over stock springs and dampers.

 

Yep these VQ35 have a wee oil filter, same size as the Micra and Almera 

[Dipper]

2 hours ago, davey_83 said:

All very lovely updates, I bet she sat nice and high at that setting for the coilovers. Nice bit of weight saving too upgrading to the BC's over stock springs and dampers.

 

Yep these VQ35 have a wee oil filter, same size as the Micra and Almera 

You're not wrong. It was set to off road at that height! Had to take it waaayyy down. Lol. I'm still fine tuning truth be told.  

I didn't even consider weight saving you know. That's a bonus. I know the after market subframe is a good bit lighter than oem too. So should see a few kilos shaved off so!

It's mad a 1.0 litre engine micra has the same filter as a 3.5 litre. Bonkers

[Dipper]

On 03/10/2024 at 14:48, Dipper said:

Next mod on the list:

Rear red lens fog  light removal.

After following a previous "how to" guide on this site. I stuck the rear bumper light cluster in the oven. And using some trim removal tools.pried the lens away from the black housing. Once opened and clearing away the sticky glue. I took out the red lens and the mirrored backing. Both of which came away easily. 

Back in the oven for a minute to make the glue tacky again. And resealed the unit. 

Confession. I was worried about wrecking my lights. So I bought a cheap 2nd hand unit off Ebay to try this mod. Since it was successful.  Next I just gotta get a red bulb to replace the affected fog light, take off the rear bumper and fit the new clear lens.  Which hopefully add some symmetry  to the rear of the car

Finally got round to getting these fitted. Was a bit of a faff getting the bumper off. I only loosened it on one side. Then with a little key hole surgery managed to get in behind the bumper. Disconnect the old indicator/rear fog unit and replace with my previously modded clear one. (I fitted a red bulb in place of the red lens)  all back together and the back of the car looks nice and symmetrical now.