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Red Zed Redemption


Dipper

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After allot of very careful work on these bolts I managed to get them all out successfully. It was a game of patience.  Wire brush. A good set of hex sockets. And being really gentle with the breaker bar. One thing I learned during this job was the importance of loosen untill you feel pressure. Then re tighten. And repeat.  Over and back over and back (basically forever) to clean the threads as you go. And never forcing things too hard. That and wd40 helps. Also for the big nut in the kidney bracket the impact gun. To loosen and then tighten over and back over and back. Which also made the nut hot and easier to take off. It wasn't easy though. But so relieved to have the whole thing disassembled without breaking any bolts or captive nuts.1000110378.jpg.688a43e4d3f21428e20bc0115af187c3.jpg

 

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Posted (edited)

So I wire brushed the underside of all the mating areas and treated it with rust converter. Leaving it to sit over night now before giving it a lick of paint. Before re assembly with new parts bolts and nuts.

Also as for the splash shield. I'd bought a replacement part but yeah. I havnt the patience  to fit it. It's not structural and it was a seige of a job to rip it out. As like most people I didn't want to remove the exhaust and the drive shaft. So I ripped the rusty thing out and If anyone wants to buy a cheap new unused splash shield you're welcome to it.

Edited by Dipper
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Looking good, reminisent of the work I'm doing on mine.
Taps for the threads are a godsend - so often they're fine threads though so watch out.

 

Unfortunately all the work I got done in this thread (

) has mostly started to get rust inside again and rust stains leak out.

 

Dynax S50 to the rescue 

Edited by Zalas
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Posted (edited)
On 26/07/2024 at 15:54, Zalas said:

Looking good, reminisent of the work I'm doing on mine.
Taps for the threads are a godsend - so often they're fine threads though so watch out.

 

Unfortunately all the work I got done in this thread (

) has mostly started to get rust inside again and rust stains leak out.

 

Dynax S50 to the rescue 

Nice work here. Unfortunately they do love to rust. It takes real effort to keep them alive in our climate. I was impressed by how well the rust converter works to be fair. But it can only do so much. 

Yeah not knowing thread pitches put me off the taps. I only have standard pitch taps. Not the fine ones

Edited by Dipper
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On 26/07/2024 at 21:32, ballistic said:

Im planning to do rust proofing on mine soon too. Kinda.dreading it but also really want to do it

Yeah it's better to bite the bullet. Make sure to check under the plastic side skirts at the rear arch. That's where my rust journey started unfortunately 

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Posted (edited)

New kidney brackets on. All new bolts and hardware. As well as new hardware for the previously installed white ultra racing brace. MOT rebooked for tommorrow.  Fingers crossed this time it's a win.

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Edited by Dipper
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Fingers crossed!!

 

Highly.recomment the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB/UC for underneath and the S50 for cavities. I'll send some pics tonight of how my arches and underneath look as I have my knuckles and tie rods off at the moment.

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Mot passed and the red zed is back on the road. I think changing rusty kidney brackets is basically a rite of passage for a 350z owner...you should get a badge or something

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Next up on the list is the heating dials. Mines an 04 so has the 1st gen dials. A little flatter and wider. With a smaller chrome bezel. So I snagged some of the newer dials off Ebay. They felt a bit gritty to turn and not smooth. So a quick rebuild and clean out was on the cards first before fitting them. I'm doing all this assuming they work once fitted. 

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Edited by Dipper
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On 21/08/2024 at 21:35, Zalas said:

Nice! How did you do the 'rebuild' clean - compressed air and qtips?

Yeah some wet wipes, q tips and then some tissues to dry it off and reassemble. 

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17 hours ago, ballistic said:

Arnt those the JDM controls? Thats what i have on mine

Oh good question. I know there is 3 types of heating controls. The ones that came in my early 2004 350z. Then the one with the slightly larger silver rear bezel. (I assumed this was a rev up change. But maybe it's a japan import thing)

And then the ones that come on the interior facelift models on the HR and such with the silver rotating parts and black rear housing. The 3 types I know of pictured here:

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So popped up the gearstick surround bezel. Disconnect the ribbon style harness wire connecting them. The dials are held in by a single black screw and clips you have to pry back. Two on top and two on the sides. (I didn't spot the side ones at first.) Lever them out with a screw driver and they pop out. I did a quick function test before reassembly. All the controls seem to work so I reassembled them and voila. A little more bling added to my interior.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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