Jump to content

Engine, TCS and Slip light (But no limp mode) - Whats the best diagnostic tool?


galaxyg

Recommended Posts

I've seen a very similar thread also going on here, although mine gives slights different symptoms. Was driving happily yesterday for about 40 minutes, then all three lights came on at once whilst waiting at a roundabout. No other effects, so I pulled over, turned off the car and restarted it - which it didn't do as easily as normal.

 

Arrived destination, left car parked for a couple of hours. Started perfectly - engine light on, ESP/Slip not on.  15 mins down the road, a momentary drop of revs, ESP/Slip comes on, car then behaves as normal. If there's a limp mode, it can "limp" happily at 90mph as usual.

 

Exact same "engine light first, plus the other two about 15 mins later" also occurred later the same day.  So I guess I need to get some kind of device to read what the fault is - I'm looking for suggestions on the device. I don't intend to be doing a lot of this kind of thing so whatever is the cheapest that is also actually useful. Suggestions welcome.

 

Also suggestions for what might be  wrong with the Z also welcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Standard 6 spoke wheels that come with the basic 2005 Z and the front tyres are Bridgestone 225/45 R18, , rears are Pirelli 245/45 ZR18.  Fronts could probably do with a little more air in them, though I have no idea if that's relevant to the problem.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, galaxyg said:

Standard 6 spoke wheels that come with the basic 2005 Z and the front tyres are Bridgestone 225/45 R18, , rears are Pirelli 245/45 ZR18.  Fronts could probably do with a little more air in them, though I have no idea if that's relevant to the problem.

Just trying to eliminate certain bits as we’ve had a few whacky racers on here, just purely  from what you’ve described I’d say you might have an abs component failing ie “wheel speed sensor, abs ring” realistically you’d be best to get it hooked up to a diag scan tool to give you more details, 

 

Sometimes the Eml comes on because there’s a fault with the abs and vice versa. Get it scanned then come back to use, how handy are you? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Azurez33 said:

 how handy are you? 

 

Plugging in a diagnosis tool - yes. Actually carrying out repairs - no. Unless they're super super easy. I can change a wheel and change a battery.

 

Any suggestions on what's the best thing to get to scan it with?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Azurez33 said:

Ahh okay mate, if you get stuck you can come down to me, I’m in Worcester/ Malvern and can’t take the diag far! Get it scanned and we’ll go from there! 

Thanks a kind offer, thanks.  I'll keep you posted in this thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 15/05/2022 at 18:14, Azurez33 said:

Just trying to eliminate certain bits as we’ve had a few whacky racers on here, just purely  from what you’ve described I’d say you might have an abs component failing ie “wheel speed sensor, abs ring” realistically you’d be best to get it hooked up to a diag scan tool to give you more details, 

 

 

Quite some time later, I've finally got my hands on a tool and some time and run it, with the following results (image below)

 

Which initially suggest ABS. At the same time I was running the diagnostic, the car did turn on the ABS light *and* the Stability light *and* the "slippery road" light. And then off again And then a while later on again. Repeat. Every time a small click from the car.

 

Although a bit off Googling gives me a youtube link that suggests Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) C1130 will also cause an ABS light fault, even if the ABS is actually OK.  

 

Any experience/advice welcome.

 

fault.jpg.42f460a4ac8a3f03d8632318a106e192.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, well camshaft position sensors are common as hell on 350s, however you’d be best to check the wiring just incase, should have a 5v ecu feed and an earth aswell as a signal back which could be 2-5v back, I can see if I’ve got the testing data at work if you want? and don’t get a cheap quality sensor they never last/work. 
 

With regards to the abs issues, these could be knock on from not starting so the abs sensors not getting the correct voltage it needs so might be best to try and sort the Engine management light first. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Azurez33 said:

Hmm, well camshaft position sensors are common as hell on 350s, however you’d be best to check the wiring just incase, should have a 5v ecu feed and an earth aswell as a signal back which could be 2-5v back, I can see if I’ve got the testing data at work if you want? and don’t get a cheap quality sensor they never last/work. 

 

Thanks for info, good to know and yeah sounds logical to start with engine not ABS. I have no idea where to start on the above however. 😀 I'm about as good with electrics as I am with mechanicals.   I can change a battery/fuse. Beyond that... (motions hand going over head).     Testing data might be useful though thanks, if I can figure out what I'm doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahh right, we’ll tbh to test the wiring you’d atleast need to know how to use a multimeter in this scenario, got anyone who’s handy like that? What age is yours again? I’ll do my best to get the relevant info whilst at work, but they are known for eating cam sensors from time to time 😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, galaxyg said:

Thanks!  Studying now...

 

@*!# sorry, just realised somehow I’ve clicked onto crank position not cam 😂 I was tired when doing this , I do apologise however the fundamentals will be the same 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right. It is the cam position sensor. Also confirmed it at a local Japanese sports car specialist I found. For now they've cleared the fault and at the moment, the car has entirely forgotten about the problem - no warning lights.  I'll get it changed anyway, I can't see that lasting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, galaxyg said:

Right. It is the cam position sensor. Also confirmed it at a local Japanese sports car specialist I found. For now they've cleared the fault and at the moment, the car has entirely forgotten about the problem - no warning lights.  I'll get it changed anyway, I can't see that lasting.

Excellent, that’s good to hear, the car will have to do three drive cycles before registering the fault again, cold - hot- cold x3, keep an eye and keep me updated! think I’ve also mentioned, go for a decent quality one or you’ll buy thrice 😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...