evilscorp Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 I can think of only one person on the forum who may answer this but worth a shot. How do you remove the propshaft U joints? The appear to have a pressed in spring clip rather than a circlip holding the U joint cap/bearings in-place. Going to (don't judge or hate) getto shorten the propshaft for the 200sx s14a but I intend to cut 1.5" of the carbon fiber tube off and use a press mounted sideways on the ground with a sling attached tp the press to hold the bottom of the propshaft and press the (believe it to be) serrated coupler 1.5" futher down the tube until I remove the 15cm length needed and use a resin on the last push to help lock the serrated coupler inplace and strengthen any of the cutting of fibers as its been push inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 (edited) I assume from some googling they are staked/peened in and the wee tabs may bend out when pressed. Yes its getto again... but I think there is enough metal to peen them back in place once it all goes together again. (square punch or chisel on the middle of the alreaded marked 8 points.) Edited February 27, 2021 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 Wasted thread, think ive decided how to do it. lol. Going to file/cut/grind (whatever is less invasive) one sides, 8 tabs off then use the press to push a die through the other side. Hopefully the cup should pop off at the filed side if not, I will then dremal grind the 8 better exposed tabs on the pushed side and then have to rigg something up to push the cross part the opposite way so it has enough space to be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 Had a rake about but unfortunately my hole saws (without central drill bit) is 0.5mm too big and just doesnt quite fit in the hole so looks like I will have to individually grind off each tab at 90*. Might start tomorrow unless I have anyother ideas through the night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 So didn't have much time today only half ass attempt. used the dremel and a tiny used cutting disc to wear down the pressed/staked tabs on one side, then put it in the press, its not flat or level so not ideal. Started to press with the end of the joint supported 2nd last picture but I started to worry when I was putting a lot of force and not seeing or hearing anything. Too late at night to be not 100% focused so sha@{+t it and desided to message Zemanalex for advice and wait till i am off again on tuesday, hopefully find a replacement part somewhere with internal snap rings as I dont fancy buying a staking machine/ tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 PM received and replied to: Replaced loads of staked UJs in days gone by, but never had to replace a 350 UJ. however the principles are the same. They simply press out and do not require any cutting and then carefully press the new one in and as you say use an internal snap ring. Available on line, however best to measure accurately with a vernier to get the correct size and go for the ones with the grease nipple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 As always Zmanalex comes in with the goods. Cheers for the quick reply and conformation on how to do the job. Didn't think about a grease top up U joint but I will look for one. (probably lucky if the car will do a few thousand miles a year but better to be serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 Might help someone one day but here are some sizes and the struggle that insued for u joints on 350z propshaft. Tried multiple ways, all terrifing as the ears for the u joint are not flat/level. Ended up using the press and shutting my eyes. Also cut away a section of the carbon fiber propshaft to see if it was splined. Found some picutres on Trigs escort build on their forum of the inside and he has just cut and pressed the shaft back on, I had intended to cut small sections and press it back in after a few goes but the mess the carbon makes is horrible so just going to cut the steel section completely free and hopefully press it in. Need to find an old seatbelt now to go through the other u joint as I dont need to replace or hack that side up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Thought i found a treasure map inside the propshaft, probably there to expand and give weight at speed so its staying... whatever it is lol. Think they used seam sealer on the end to keep moisture out so probably do the same, was going to use a big o-ring but not sure now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 Wont be doing that again, nothing was easy. U joint needed the ear lobes on the couplers ground down as the snap rings wouldnt fit in. Used seam sealer on the joint, then thought my new air hammer attachment would speed things up.... it didn't so went back to the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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