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Won't start - any ideas?


Rich350z

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On 08/02/2021 at 21:36, Azurez33 said:

Hmm could be down to the pump when it gets cold then,  however could be crank or cam sensor aswell 

 

If that's the case (in regards to the pump) is there a way of fixing/preventing this? Or does it require a new pump?

 

I plan on spending the weekend working through my list of things that I've cobbled together from various similar posts on this forum:

 

NATS - check for water ingress

Crank Sensor - remove connector and clean with electrical contact cleaner (will probably do this with every connector I can easily find under the bonnet lol)

IDPM - check for loose connects/obvious breaks.

Clutch pedal - check that the button that it presses to allow engine to start, is depressing correctly!

 

As above, i tried the pedal dance and it doesn't seem to give me a code I understand (2 slow, 6 fast, 2 slow).

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35 minutes ago, ShortPaul said:

Did you :pmzmanalex:

...nooo... I don't like Pm'ing people - it feels instrusive lol. Does he mind?

 

 

Also - just been out to the car - AND IT BLOODY WELL STARTED!!!!

 

So, I think I've narrowed down the issue:

 

When it was failing to start, my red immobiliser light was staying on even after turning the key.

 

When it started just now, the red light went out when I turned the key!

 

So, I though the red light was meant to stay on when you attempt to start it - evidently not! So, I assume that this is likely to be some kind of immobiliser issue?

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Might sound stupid but have you tried replacing the battery in your key fob? we get this at work a lot eg car can’t read key code signal because it’s too weak etc... I’d advise making sure you have a back up key to try it on first before you try the  “primary key” 

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52 minutes ago, Azurez33 said:

Might sound stupid but have you tried replacing the battery in your key fob? we get this at work a lot eg car can’t read key code signal because it’s too weak etc... I’d advise making sure you have a back up key to try it on first before you try the  “primary key” 

 

No, I haven't tried this to be fair - but I have tried the spare key (the one with no buttons - think it's called a valet key) and that doesn't start it either, so I've ruled out being a key problem - but that doesn't mean I am not willing to try anything at this stage!

 

So, I will order a battery for the key fob to see if it works

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If the pedal dance is giving you lights you can’t read, get a cheap code reader and plug it in. I’d get one with a cable a cut out the phone Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and get it read. For £20 it’ll be useful for ages. All you have to be careful of is that it’s different reader for jap imports.

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Did you drive it or leave it running after that one time it started, or just shut it off fairly soon after?  Could be flooded (again) potentially.  Try pulling the fuel pump fuse, turning the key and let it crank for 30 seconds, return the fuse and retry.  This should dispel any excess fuel.

 

Although i expect your mechanic would have tried that already...

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1 hour ago, marzman said:

And is a valet key even supposed to start the car?  I always thought they just unlocked it so it could be valeted...? :shrug:

 

That’s weird, I thought you just got a lower rev limit with the valet key, to curb valet Parker enthusiasm?

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19 hours ago, Stutopia said:

If the pedal dance is giving you lights you can’t read, get a cheap code reader and plug it in. I’d get one with a cable a cut out the phone Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and get it read. For £20 it’ll be useful for ages. All you have to be careful of is that it’s different reader for jap imports.

 

I've got a bluetooth OBDII reader which I've connected and it doesn't give any error codes. The device does work though as it has a feature where it gives live readouts on things like engine temp, throttle position and %, revs etc.

 

17 hours ago, Kieran O'Quick said:

Has your car had any mods? 

 

No mods (unless you count my 350z dust caps I put on B) )

 

17 hours ago, marzman said:

Did you drive it or leave it running after that one time it started, or just shut it off fairly soon after?  Could be flooded (again) potentially.  Try pulling the fuel pump fuse, turning the key and let it crank for 30 seconds, return the fuse and retry.  This should dispel any excess fuel.

 

Although i expect your mechanic would have tried that already...

 

Yeah when it started I drove it for a full week before it happened again!

 

 

17 hours ago, marzman said:

And is a valet key even supposed to start the car?  I always thought they just unlocked it so it could be valeted...? :shrug:

 

Yup - my wife uses this key all the time when I take my key to work and leave the car at home

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