Harrm Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Apologies if I'm posting this in the wrong place this is 1st time I've posted. So I'm now getting really fed up of searching for my issue. Here goes it's a bit long winded. Had the car a year and half and the car has done it from day 1. Start it and drive it cold and half way to normal temp (normally after about 2 mins of driving) she starts blubbing exhaust turns to a deeper tone and at low revs is almost jerky. If left to idle to temp this doesn't happen at all, unless you stop the car and switch it back on then it happens again for a few minutes then clears itself. There are no EML on. So I got a jobd reader last week and it read 5 faults P0021, P0024, P0024, P0011, and P1078. All to do with exhaust valve timing and intake valve timing bank 1 and 2. So I changed all 4 sensors, 2 x cam shaft positioning and 2 x exhaust valve control positioning. After mixing these around a bit hey presto, no fault codes. Out for a spin but the issue still remains. It may seem petty but apart from this issue the car is faultless and I really want to solve it. Before this I have swapped MAF, crank sensor, checked vacuum pipes, cleaned throttle body, tried a 2nd throttle body, cleaned exhaust valve solenoids, Checked plugs and fully serviced. So I'm pleading for help/suggestions I'm next going to try changing the thermostat, I've also been told mixed stories about the flywheel being a possibility as it has had an aftermarket clutch and lightened wheel 3 years ago? Thanks for reading people appreciate any advice and ideas. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kieran O'Quick Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 That's crazy that it gave you the codes but fixing those bits didn't solve it. My revup played up and didn't give accurate codes when coils were failing and when a Cat had collapsed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrm Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 None of the sensors were oem so I can only think that they needed changing anyway and were not related. I wonder if there could be a dodgy coil. Is there a way of testing them? I've taken them out individually and they look good to the eye (no cracks etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kieran O'Quick Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 They can be a bit intermittent and don't always show signs of failure even on a multimeter. Sometimes it's heat dependent. I identified one by cooling them in situ when running but I'm not sure how advisable that is. Am no mechanic. Usually you at least get a p0300 random misfire code for coils though or if you're lucky the cylinder number too. So it sounds like it could be something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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