HEADPHONES Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 I've corrected my headlights 4-5 times over the past 10 years. Past 3 times I've coated with Gtechniq C4. This slows the hazing alot but a year after the last application I have this Armed with a collection of wet and dry, pads and polish and a drill with pad attachment I proceeded. I used wet and dry grades 2000, 2500, 3000 then 5000. This revealed some crazing when viewed at certain angles. Fearing I'd make it worse with a machine, I proceeded with a MF cloth and Megs NXT Metal Polish. This still left some deep swirls. Another hit with Menzerna ultra fine polish After a couple more hits I got from To Now I've already got some clear wrap ready to protect the headlights hoping to get better durability. Any harm in putting C4 before the wrap as long as I leave a couple of days for curing? Or is C4 pointless if I'm going to wrap anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 It’s probably a bit pointless, to be honest, I can’t see it adding anything however I don’t foresee any adverse effects of doing so either as the wrap will sit over it just fine. If you want to try it and you’ve got spare C4, go for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Just wrap it, from experience it's a great remedy. Just make sure the finish is exactly how you want it prior If you're desperate to use C4, coat the wrap if need be. I've done a few years back and it's looks day one fresh! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldel Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 1 hour ago, davey_83 said: Just wrap it, from experience it's a great remedy. Just make sure the finish is exactly how you want it prior If you're desperate to use C4, coat the wrap if need be. I've done a few years back and it's looks day one fresh! You could do with trimming the edges and flattening the creases out on that wrap mate... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 1 hour ago, coldel said: You could do with trimming the edges and flattening the creases out on that wrap mate... Why didn't you post earlier coldel? I've only gone and copied Davey and have the exact same finish 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Schwier Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 The wrap will not stick if you put the ceramic coating down before, surface needs to be as clean as possible (Alcohol, IPA wipe down) You can use the ceramic coating on top of the film to boost the hydrophobic properties 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 ^ Pro advice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 Alas my clear tint film wasn't to my liking. Lost alot of clarity probably due to a poor quality film. So I stopped half way, removed it, cleaned and ipa'd the surface and applied a coat of C4. Going to apply another layer after 24 hours to hopefully boost durability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 If it helps anyone, I definitely found that using wet and dry made the process easier and gentler on the lenses. In the past I went straight to pads and polish. Yesterday was the first time I'd used wet and dry. I think that without wet sanding, because there is so much for the pad to do, there is a tendency to work the pad too long and hard producing heat which could possibly damage the headlights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 A dual action polisher won't create heat as it's not in the same spot continuous. Wet & dry is the harshest form of correction for lacquered finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) On 19/04/2020 at 18:58, HEADPHONES said: Alas my clear tint film wasn't to my liking. Lost alot of clarity probably due to a poor quality film. So I stopped half way, removed it, cleaned and ipa'd the surface and applied a coat of C4. Going to apply another layer after 24 hours to hopefully boost durability. That shouldn't have been the case, can you explain the final steps of your process? Edited April 21, 2020 by davey_83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Sprayed the light with water containing a drop of fairy liquid. Removed film backing. Chucked the backing and held the film that had the sticky adhesive side. Sprayed soaking both sides of the film with the water/fairy liquid. Layed it over the light. Used the felt covered squeegee included to press out the water smoothing outward from the center. Used hair dryer as I went to soften the film as I pulled and stretched. It was going on ok, but the film itself wasn't a good batch. Headlight was clear but even after smoothing the film out the film still retained a slightly cloudy look. Kinda like a transparent plastic lunchbox that is clear but not in the same way as glass. Should have taken some pics but I was preoccupied in taking it off before the adhesive had time to really become steadfast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Alas it was only £3.69 so no great loss Plus it got me practicing wrapping something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Maybe in a couple years when the C4 fails, I'll try a premium film or even pay a bodyshop to add clearcoat to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) Ok that makes sense, the wrap has another top film that you peel of after application. This film gets scratches during application which is finally removed, without doing do it will look cloudy. Edited April 21, 2020 by davey_83 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 22 hours ago, davey_83 said: Ok that makes sense, the wrap has another top film that you peel of after application. This film gets scratches during application which is finally removed, without doing do it will look cloudy. You mean there was a top film to remove What a plum That'll teach me to just watch a couple of YouTube videos and think I don't need to ask specifics 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeybrain1234 Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 I did this today with the wrap. Not really happy with result. More likely to be my lack of wrapping skill, but a few bubbles and the edges I found a nightmare. Think I will go back to yacht varnish. Wrapping was painful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 First time to tried I had to pull the lot off, second attempt applied it wet which was what's needed. Then heat applied to the edges. The bubbles I had then in the heat of the sun came out and any larger bubbles, I made a pin hole in the wrap and fingered the moisture out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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