Rob350 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to explain where I'm at.. cheers So I repainted the rear arches, only about 20mm around the flat arch edge. Colour match is good but as I sprayed the lacquer coat i tried to blend to the rest of the arch, anyway it has now made the arch like a matt finish. It feels smoothish to touch but not glass like the rest of the car. It almost feels like it needs a good clay bar and you can hear the roughness when you wipe your hand over it. On one arch I used farcella g3 scratch remover paste on a buffing pad which has made it glass like smooth and shiney again. My question is... I'd like to use a proper polish to make it shiney glass like, what polish should I get?? Also should i use the fluffy buffing pad or proper foam polish pad??? The g3 paste has done a brilliant job but I think it's full of fillers like a glaze so if I deep clean the car again I'll be left with matt arches again and have to reapply the g3 paste everytime I deep clean the car. I'd like to properly polish it so if/when I deep clean the car again in a year or so I wont be left with matt looking arches. I hope you understand. I've got some Maguires ultimate compound, I've read about some 105 or 205 polish maybe?? Any advice would be great, there are soooooo many different brands and products of polishes etc it can get confusing on which is best for my application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Depends how bad it is really. If you’ve got reasonable results with G3 it doesn’t sound too bad, but pictures would help. As a rule, after any paint I’d recommend claying (for overspray) before polishing anyway. Worst case scenario, wet sand (but carefully as aerosol lacquer will be horribly thin) with 2500 (or finer) and then a 2 stage polish with something medium-to-heavy cut finishing with a light cut compound on foam pads. Best case, lightest cut polish/pad combo possible to get the job done. Scholl polishes are my go-to, with S30+ being a great finishing polish. Wool pads are heavy cut so I would always go with foam and only step up if you absolutely need to. I’d always advise an IPA wipe down after polishing to check actual results, which will remove any fillers or oils masking any remaining issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob350 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 7 minutes ago, ilogikal1 said: Depends how bad it is really. If you’ve got reasonable results with G3 it doesn’t sound too bad, but pictures would help. As a rule, after any paint I’d recommend claying (for overspray) before polishing anyway. Worst case scenario, wet sand (but carefully as aerosol lacquer will be horribly thin) with 2500 (or finer) and then a 2 stage polish with something medium-to-heavy cut finishing with a light cut compound on foam pads. Best case, lightest cut polish/pad combo possible to get the job done. Scholl polishes are my go-to, with S30+ being a great finishing polish. Wool pads are heavy cut so I would always go with foam and only step up if you absolutely need to. I’d always advise an IPA wipe down after polishing to check actual results, which will remove any fillers or oils masking any remaining issues. Thanks illogikal, I was hoping youd come to save the day I clayed the whole car today and that made it 10× better, it left the lacquered area feeling smooth (not glass smooth) but like sanded smooth or original paint that needs a really good clay. I thought I'd see what the g3 would do and It came up really shiney and glass like smooth so I dont think it's bad enough to need wet sanding. I'll get some pics tommorow morning in the sunlight to help. But for now would you reccomend the s30+ on a foam pad? With it being a light cut polish, if I do need to go a little bit deeper I could use the woolly buffing pad. Also to help me understand the cutness of different products... on a scale of 1 to 10 say, (1 being finishing polish and 10 being wet sand) If Scholl s30 would be 1, where would the megs ultimate compound be on the scale of 1 finishing polish and 10 wet sanding?? I really appreciate the help, straight from someones mouth instead of trailing threads and discussions getting confused on polished bliss lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 On a Z, I’d always stick with foam pads unless wet sanding, even then I’d try heavy cut foam pads before stepping up to wool pads. in terms of cut, it also depends on the pad; on a moderate cut pad (say Lake Country tangerine pad, for example), I’d say S30+ is a 3, Megs 105 (Ultra Cut Compound) is about a 8 - about the same as Scholl S20 Black. Megs 205 (Ultra Finishing Polish) is about a 4. Those numbers would drop down one each on a Crimson pad though as that itself has a lighter cut. To simplify matters, my recommended 2 stage polish on a neglected Z would typically be S20 on Tangerine pad for heaviest cut (I would never see the need to go any higher than this without severe paint defects) down to S30+ on a Tangerine pad for finishing - but S30 on Tangerine or S20 on Crimson for a mid-way level of cut. So for fresh rattle can paint that just needs to be polished up, I’d suggest starting with S30+ or 205 on a Lake Country Hydrotech Crimson pad, worked thoroughly with sufficient passes, wiped down to check the finish. If there’s little to no improveKent, step up to S20/105 on a (fresh/clean) Crimson pad and repeat. If you still need to, then step up the pad to Tangerine and repeat. Definitely should have asked this sooner, but I’ve just realised I had assumed! Did you use rattle can lacquer or 2k? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob350 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 16 minutes ago, ilogikal1 said: On a Z, I’d always stick with foam pads unless wet sanding, even then I’d try heavy cut foam pads before stepping up to wool pads. in terms of cut, it also depends on the pad; on a moderate cut pad (say Lake Country tangerine pad, for example), I’d say S30+ is a 3, Megs 105 (Ultra Cut Compound) is about a 8 - about the same as Scholl S20 Black. Megs 205 (Ultra Finishing Polish) is about a 4. Those numbers would drop down one each on a Crimson pad though as that itself has a lighter cut. To simplify matters, my recommended 2 stage polish on a neglected Z would typically be S20 on Tangerine pad for heaviest cut (I would never see the need to go any higher than this without severe paint defects) down to S30+ on a Tangerine pad for finishing - but S30 on Tangerine or S20 on Crimson for a mid-way level of cut. So for fresh rattle can paint that just needs to be polished up, I’d suggest starting with S30+ or 205 on a Lake Country Hydrotech Crimson pad, worked thoroughly with sufficient passes, wiped down to check the finish. If there’s little to no improveKent, step up to S20/105 on a (fresh/clean) Crimson pad and repeat. If you still need to, then step up the pad to Tangerine and repeat. Definitely should have asked this sooner, but I’ve just realised I had assumed! Did you use rattle can lacquer or 2k? I used rattle can lacquer, also it's on an e46 m3. So I'm thinking I may use the megs ultimate compound on a foam pad to start, see how that goes, then get some scholl s30 to finish. Hows autoglym super resin polish for a finish instead of scholl?? The car is a light silver grey in colour, I'm also not after a 100% perfect finish as the silver colour makes the swirlies barely noticable. I'm just after bringing back the glass glossy shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob350 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 Heres a pic so you can see the colour. The rear arch pic is before I did any painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Ah, that’s a completely different kettle of cod then. BMW paint is the opposite of Nissan paint and is hard, so your main concern with going too aggressive is cutting through the new paint - aerosol goes on super thin, so you might not have much at all to work with, so bare that in mind. That said I wouldn’t be to concerned going at it with Megs UC on a foam pad. SRP is more filler than anything else, on the scale it’s barely be a 1 with the pad doing almost all of the work, to be honest. It’s really more glaze than polish. Have a crack at it with the Megs and see how you go, it does finish down on its own reasonably well so it should do you for your needs, but feel free to report back and we can suggest next steps if not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Miłego dnia i bądź bezpieczny ;) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob350 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Heres before polishing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob350 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Heres after 3 passes with megs ultimate compound... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob350 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Really happy to be fair.. it's gone shiney glass like again, I've got some scholl s30 and panel wipe on order, should be here by Wednesday. Gunna go over the megs with scholl then panel wipe the side I did with the g3 and megs and scholl that side. Thanks for the advice @ilogikal1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Great work! Get some wax/sealant on to protect all that work and you’re sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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