Bockaaarck Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) I've been managing a long standing intermittent issue with the good old ABS, TCS and SLIP dash lights. The background is as follows, about 3 years ago the lights appeared on the dash, on and off for a few months. But I manage to read and clear the codes (P1122) as getting a number of other things checked when I had a clutch change at H-Dev (fuses, wiring check etc). Problem remained intermittent but thankfully never reoccurred during a couple of MOT tests. However; the last year they've come back on, and although still intermittent, they appear more frequently. The appear in a number of circumstances - 1) Straight away, when I start the car. 2) I start the car and all is good for a minute or two, then they appear before I set off. 3) I start the car, all is good, I set off and get driving. Then the lights appear after 5 - 10 minutes. These are the things I have checked / changed so far, trying to address this issue. 1) Checked brake fluid, and double checked - all good, well in the max reading - not sure I could add a significant amount of fluid to make any difference - it is proper full up! 2) Checked the ABS fluid, this is also full, well up to max and again, is reading at a healthy level ! 3) I have changed the accelerator pedal position sensor / switch - in case that was the issue 4) I have done the pedal dance more times than Michael Flatly has done Riverdance 5) Guys at H-Dev ran some checks, checked / changes fuses and checked for electrical shorts, nothing seemed to be found 6) I have recently checked and changed the throttle body (thanks Adrian at Torqen!) and that's been installed, running well and operating fine. 7) I have done the pedal dance a few more times and checked the levels again, for luck, just to be sure. 8) Only code I consistently got from JOBD reader was the P1122code. I have cleared the codes again recently - I have two readers, both not tell me there are no codes when I do a reading - although the lights have come back on. I'm now thinking about what I look at next, where I head with this. The historical code indicates that the issue is in the throttle controller / actuator space. As said, I have replaced the throttle body recently (couple of weeks ago) and that all appears to be functioning ok. One remaining issue is that the idle seems to be quite high, around 1000rpm. I am going to continue with the pedal dance. To address the high idle, in case I haven’t quite got the timing right. I am wondering what the next likely candidates are, in terms of the issue / error / lights. I have the following in mind. 1)Throttle control actuator connection 2) Wheel speed sensor / sensors 3) Steering wheel position sensor 4) ABS actuator 5) ABS pump 6) Possibly the KMH / MPH convertor thingy, which I guess is fitted to the car, as it's a JDM import. God knows what they look like, where they are or where I can get one. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions on what I can check next, what the next best step is? More than happy to investigate suggestions, thoughts, ideas from the community and our trader / mechanical experts. Thanks Edited October 16, 2019 by Bockaaarck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 This is what happened to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) So, before leaving work this evening. I fired the car up, lights appeared. I did all of the various pedal dance activities. In fact I did them twice, just to be sure. Hosannah, Hosannah In The Highest! The lights disappeared and the throttle idle dropped down to around 650rpm, hussar! Set off from work, but of A and B road driving. Slow speed stop n start, some cruising at 40-50mph. After 18 minutes, while sat in a queue is slow moving traffic......bing*.....dashboard lights up again. But idle stays around the 650-750rpm. Edited October 16, 2019 by Bockaaarck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) 13 minutes ago, HEADPHONES said: This is what happened to me Hey HEADPHONES, thanks for flagging this. Yep, I’ve already replaced that switch previously. However; as it’s only a few quid, I can give that another go, I guess Edited October 16, 2019 by Bockaaarck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikz2004 Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 8 minutes ago, Bockaaarck said: So, before leaving work this evening. I fired the car up, lights appeared. I did all of the various pedal dance activities. In fact I did them twice, just to be sure. Hosannah, Hosannah In The Highest! The lights disappeared and the throttle idle dropped down to around 650rpm, hussar! Set off from work, but of A and B road driving. Slow speed stop n start, some cruising at 40-50mph. After 18 minutes, while sat in a queue is slow moving traffic......bing*.....dashboard lights up again. But idle stays around the 650-750rpm. I believe some of the pedal dance things need to be done once the car is warm. If you do this correctly, it should fix it. From memory it's the throttle position reset you need to do once car is warm but maybe someone else can confirm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 Easy to check if brake pedal switch is working. Just check brake lights come on full power instead of very faintly. Mine was also sensitive to how far I screwed it in 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Rikz2004 said: I believe some of the pedal dance things need to be done once the car is warm. If you do this correctly, it should fix it. From memory it's the throttle position reset you need to do once car is warm but maybe someone else can confirm. Yep, that’s correct. The car has to be up to temperature when the pedal dance is done. I ran the car for 10-15 minutes while stationary, to get it up to temperature. It was in the normal band, temp wise, before I got my dancing shoes on Edited October 16, 2019 by Bockaaarck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 5 minutes ago, HEADPHONES said: Easy to check if brake pedal switch is working. Just check brake lights come on full power instead of very faintly. Mine was also sensitive to how far I screwed it in Yep, I definitely think it’s worth me having another look at this. I know the switch there can be a bit flakey, particularly the Nissan ones. I’m just gradually ticking a few things off the list. The initial error code was throttle actuator related, so that’s the start point. But this switch, the wheel speed sensor’s are where I’m going to look next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valy Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 got the exact same issue for a good few months and still haven't managed to sort it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeg33 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 P1122 points to these potential issues: (google search). That's where I'll start troubleshooting =) Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted Electric Throttle Control Actuator circuit poor electrical connection 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikz2004 Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 17 hours ago, Bockaaarck said: Yep, I definitely think it’s worth me having another look at this. I know the switch there can be a bit flakey, particularly the Nissan ones. I’m just gradually ticking a few things off the list. The initial error code was throttle actuator related, so that’s the start point. But this switch, the wheel speed sensor’s are where I’m going to look next I had this same issue after cleaning my throttle body and thought I had done it correctly once the car was warmed up but turns out one of the things hadn't worked. I re-did them and not had any issues since (6 months). I personally would take the car for a drive until its fully up to temp and try them again a few times until I'm satisfied that they've been done correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 4 hours ago, veeg33 said: P1122 points to these potential issues: (google search). That's where I'll start troubleshooting =) Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted Electric Throttle Control Actuator circuit poor electrical connection Yep, throttle actuator is top of the list for checking. Plus a few follow up candidates, just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 4 hours ago, valy said: got the exact same issue for a good few months and still haven't managed to sort it.... Yep, I’ve just gradually worked through a list of checking things off. The throttle body is the last thing I’ve changed, in my particular circumstances. So I’ll double check that and then look at the actuator has as been a bit of a pain in the bum to work through. But there we go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 2 hours ago, Rikz2004 said: I had this same issue after cleaning my throttle body and thought I had done it correctly once the car was warmed up but turns out one of the things hadn't worked. I re-did them and not had any issues since (6 months). I personally would take the car for a drive until its fully up to temp and try them again a few times until I'm satisfied that they've been done correctly. I think my next task is to actually check everything I’ve done in terms of the fitting of the new throttle body. I’ll go through it step by step, checking everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 Okey doke, new brake light switch (2nd new one) installed. Seemed ok. But then it didn’t, dash lights on again (grrrr). So, removed it, checked it, put it back in, seemed ok. Did a bit of twisting and tweaking. Tried twisting the switch all the way in, that just left the brake lights on. Tried twisting the switch out a bit, brake lights went off, dash lights off. Then tried twisting the switch further out, brake lights stayed off, dash lights off - awesome!. Started the Zed up this morning, grr, lights again on the dash! Drove the car in to work. Did a bit of checking, made sure engine was warm. Started Zed, all ok, no issues, then lights came on. Turned ignition off, did the pedal dance, turned the car back on - dash lights straight back on. so, did a bit of twisting / turning of the brake light switch. Ignition on, did the pedal dance, started the car. Yay, no dash lights, so just left things as they were! Got in the Zed to leave work, and headed off. 15 minutes after leaving from work - BING! - dash lights on again - damn it! Ok, on startup from cold, she revs up to 1500rpm initially. But then drops down to about 1000rpm. Eventually settling down to 650-ish rpm’s after a minute or so. She drives fine, brakes fine, accelerated fine. She seems to be behaving generally very well. I think next steps, I will try gradual twisting of the brake switch again, but at marked intervals of turn. And see whether that addresses the issue. Gut feel is that this is likely to be something stupid like a dirty connection or similar. However; gut feel, followed by a process of gradual elimination over three years. Has got me to exactly where I am now, no further forward. So any more ideas or thoughts are welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valy Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 same here...had a new brake light switch ,lights come on sometimes and sometimes don't ...not sure on the next step but at the moment is not affecting anything as far as I can tell... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 10 hours ago, valy said: same here...had a new brake light switch ,lights come on sometimes and sometimes don't ...not sure on the next step but at the moment is not affecting anything as far as I can tell... Hey Valy, I feel your pain, it’s a real nuisance. Rest assured, when I get to the bottom of what it is. I shall post an update here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodzman Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 Not sure if this will help, but I had similar issues earlier this year. ABS and TCS lights would come on, seemingly fairly randomly, but with increasing frequency. So I bought a code reader (an Ancel AD610) and low and behold two codes popped up C1109 Battery voltage and C1106 RR LH Sensor-2). So similar symptoms albeit a different problem. Turns out that corrosion in the mounting hole for the ABS sensor on the alloy diff housing had pushed the sensor away from its activation ring, presumably causing a weaker signal and ultimately a code to pop up, lighting up the dash. Photos may show this: Sensor gap before: Corrosion on other side (mounting bolt for sensor on immediate left) Gap when taken out, cleaned, copper greased and re-fitted: Not sure if this helps but might be something else to check, which is fairly easy once the back of the car is jacked up. Alternatively it might be useful for anyone else looking to track down similar issues? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 Woodzman, that is excellent info, especially the pics. Thanks, that’s very much appreciated. Having read through loads of info, read a load of stuff, tried a load of things. It’s really useful to have more input and detail. Car is booked in to have a look at exactly those bits n bobs, on Monday. Fingers crossed they’ll find it’s one of these sensors or something to do with the ring. Probably sounds a bit weird, but it’s actually been quite good fun. Looking in to potential issues / causes, and ticking them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted October 30, 2019 Author Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) Ok guys and gals, it seems that the ABS pump is what is knackered. Which was on my list of possibilities. So now it’s a case of getting hold of a replacement. Which I have managed to source from ZMANALEX. For your information, it appears there are two different types of ABS pumps for a JDM Zed. So just bear that in mind. Edited November 1, 2019 by Bockaaarck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bockaaarck Posted March 20, 2020 Author Share Posted March 20, 2020 Forgot to update this thread. The ABS pump was replaced and solved the issue totally. Thanks to Alex (thank you!)for sourcing the pump for me. Zed is up an running, no more ABS, TCS and Slip worries! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Good to see the problem is solved. As our cars get older, the collective knowledge of our members will be invaluable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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