Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 have you balanced the whole rotating assembly? Crank/flywheel/clutch cover/rods/pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 (edited) 45 minutes ago, Mark@Abbey m/s said: have you balanced the whole rotating assembly? Crank/flywheel/clutch cover/rods/pistons? So far only the crank and rods/pistons. Still not 100% perfect but for now more then enough. The difference between the lightest and heaviest piston/rod combo is 0.3 gram. Still need to order a new flywheel/clutch Also quick question. The clearance of the bearing is in the tight range (0.0014 - 0.0015) and i was thinking with that clearance to have an 5w20 engine oil but would you suggest something other? Edited October 23, 2019 by itsLeon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 So i changed the Pauter rods for some Eagle rods and can continu to build te engine. Do need todo the rebalancing part all over again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Dont forget to keep taking and uploading photos as you go along! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 1 hour ago, itsLeon said: So i changed the Pauter rods for some Eagle rods and can continu to build te engine. Do need todo the rebalancing part all over again... You may find they’re lighter so better for the application anyway, saves carrying weight in strength you don’t need. Re balancing, you don’t want to balance everything individually as thats not how it is in the engine, you’ll need to take everything to a machine shop for balancing as Mark has also said to get the rotating assembly balanced (crank, flywheel, clutch cover, front pulley and piston/rods). They will weight match the pistons with pins and rods then there is a calculation or their whole weight to work out a reciprocating weight which then a portion of is then attached to the crank using bobweights, the crank is then balanced with the piston/rod weights attached to it as it will be when built up giving you a true balanced bottom end. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 43 minutes ago, RobPhoboS said: Dont forget to keep taking and uploading photos as you go along! Yeah will try to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 43 minutes ago, 350Butcher said: You may find they’re lighter so better for the application anyway, saves carrying weight in strength you don’t need. Re balancing, you don’t want to balance everything individually as thats not how it is in the engine, you’ll need to take everything to a machine shop for balancing as Mark has also said to get the rotating assembly balanced (crank, flywheel, clutch cover, front pulley and piston/rods). They will weight match the pistons with pins and rods then there is a calculation or their whole weight to work out a reciprocating weight which then a portion of is then attached to the crank using bobweights, the crank is then balanced with the piston/rod weights attached to it as it will be when built up giving you a true balanced bottom end. Yeah i agree that they are better for my application around 100 grams lighter then the Pauters. While i agree that balancing as a hole is the way to go my bank account says no... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 4 hours ago, itsLeon said: Yeah i agree that they are better for my application around 100 grams lighter then the Pauters. While i agree that balancing as a hole is the way to go my bank account says no... Yes you’ll have that!! 600grams saved at 8000rpm is massive. Feel your pain with cost mate!! N/a certainly is not the cheapest route!!..........getting the whole lot balanced is not one of the expensive things to be honest, worth asking the question to a machine shop? Sadly there’s no other way of doing it as it’ll just be out of balance and with one of your goals being able to rev to 8000rpm I’d say it’s essential to have it done, even if you leave something else out that can be done later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 (edited) So i found time to update this topic and a lot has been done in the time. Main bearings from ACL Main bearings clearance measured and confirmed Main studs from ARP Thrust washers from ACL Thrust clearance measured and confirmed Eagle Rods Rod bearings from ACL Rod bearing clearance measured and confirmed Rods balanced Cosworth pistons(high compression) Piston to wall clearance measured and confirmed Pistons(en ringpack) balanced Piston rings gaps measured and adjusted where needed Supertech oil seals Cat cams springs Cat cams lash caps (to raise buckets) Cat cams race cams(intake: 290 duration 12mm lift, exhaust 274 duration 11mm lift) Cam oil clearance adjusted Valve clearance corrected Deck clearance measure Balanced everything including the bank account! Todo for next time: pre lubricate heads with molly and oil measure piston to valve clearance create self and oil galley gasket What we learned: Apparently there are letters on the brackets that hold the cams. Ow an i also bought a roll cage... Edited December 10, 2019 by itsLeon 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 Ah glad you posted again as all of my stuff is currently at the machinists ! With your ARP main studs, did you have any crank bore distortion ? Or did they line bore it for them ? I have the ARP studs as well, and it's something I can't find any info on regarding our block if it typically causes some clearance issues or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 17 minutes ago, RobPhoboS said: Ah glad you posted again as all of my stuff is currently at the machinists ! With your ARP main studs, did you have any crank bore distortion ? Or did they line bore it for them ? I have the ARP studs as well, and it's something I can't find any info on regarding our block if it typically causes some clearance issues or not. I don't know for sure because i was not around when my friend installed them so i would have to ask him. But the fact he is very and i mean very secure and i didnt hear anything from him about it means it was al good. In fact. But i will ask him when i speak to him again. But i don't expect any problems for the reason i have seen many engine's build here with ARP studs and never heard of it on the VQ engine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 That would be excellent to know, as they aren't particularly cheap Our builds are quite similar, I'm also using the same pistons but Manley connecting rods, JWT cams/springs but yours is more fruity in comparison ! Did you use ACL's 'race' bearings or the standard ones ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 11, 2019 Author Share Posted December 11, 2019 15 hours ago, RobPhoboS said: That would be excellent to know, as they aren't particularly cheap Our builds are quite similar, I'm also using the same pistons but Manley connecting rods, JWT cams/springs but yours is more fruity in comparison ! Did you use ACL's 'race' bearings or the standard ones ? We didnt measure any distortion but i think the previous owner did some work on it (i bought the parts from a well know dutch engine/car building company) What JWT cams did you buy? c8? Of the ACL question. I bought the ACL Race Series Main & Rod Bearing Set w/ Thrust Washers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 11, 2019 Author Share Posted December 11, 2019 Also small update: Yesterday we measured the piston to valve clearance using the clay (play doh) method. We have around 5.8mm clearance so everything is good. Now we are gonna build the engine for good. Also note to self. Turn the cams to correct way when installing the timing belt or else the measurement will be off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 1 hour ago, itsLeon said: We didnt measure any distortion but i think the previous owner did some work on it (i bought the parts from a well know dutch engine/car building company) What JWT cams did you buy? c8? Of the ACL question. I bought the ACL Race Series Main & Rod Bearing Set w/ Thrust Washers. Thanks for letting me know ! The only problem I have is that the machinists I'm using don't have a line bore machine. So it would be easier for me to use the standard oem bolts if I have problems with the ARP main studs. They didn't say I would, just that it has a chance. Yes that's right the C8's (I've been using them since Feb) but I was having some issues with my car's power dropping off, after a initially good dyno. Looking at the main bearings, something got in there and caused some damage! The valve seats also had some pitting from particles of grid coming through the intake at some point (most likely on my old intake setup). If I get a chance this weekend I'll start my thread too, although the photo's at the moment will just be the dismantling point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansburger Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 Great work! Cant wait to hear this lady run. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 Awesome build project! Looking forward to further updates and pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 13, 2019 Author Share Posted December 13, 2019 On 11/12/2019 at 12:16, RobPhoboS said: Thanks for letting me know ! The only problem I have is that the machinists I'm using don't have a line bore machine. So it would be easier for me to use the standard oem bolts if I have problems with the ARP main studs. They didn't say I would, just that it has a chance. Yes that's right the C8's (I've been using them since Feb) but I was having some issues with my car's power dropping off, after a initially good dyno. Looking at the main bearings, something got in there and caused some damage! The valve seats also had some pitting from particles of grid coming through the intake at some point (most likely on my old intake setup). If I get a chance this weekend I'll start my thread too, although the photo's at the moment will just be the dismantling point Im interested in what your gonna find what might cause the lose in power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) Just looked at the views on this topic and i guess some bot is going wild. Any admin wanna give some insight. BTW. Tomorrow no update about the engine but gonna work on the software part. We gonna try the following: - pops and bangs (allready achieved but can always be better) - Shooting flames - Ghost cams. Al this on the stock ECU without expensive licenses. Edited December 16, 2019 by itsLeon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 8 hours ago, itsLeon said: Just looked at the views on this topic and i guess some bot is going wild. Any admin wanna give some insight. BTW. Tomorrow no update about the engine but gonna work on the software part. We gonna try the following: - pops and bangs (allready achieved but can always be better) - Shooting flames - Ghost cams. Al this on the stock ECU without expensive licenses. Not much to say TBH, enjoy the fame. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 6 minutes ago, SuperStu said: Not much to say TBH, enjoy the fame. So it's a legit? Oke. Mom! Mom?! I'm famous!!? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classic Line Insurance Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 Great build thread so far, cannot wait to see the finished result. Will be following this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 Update about the software. - Pops and bangs. Didn't see much improvement. - Shooting flames. Didn't see anything. We do suspect the exhaust for this because its our "be quiet on dyno exhaust" also know as OEM. - Ghost cams. While we did manage the lower the ignition timing (to 5) on idle we suspect there is a special idle table we haven't found yet to get this to work. We might try in the futher to play with the VVT to give the desired effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 Is the 'ghost cam' for a lumpy idle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsLeon Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 37 minutes ago, RobPhoboS said: Is the 'ghost cam' for a lumpy idle ? Yes. its kinda useless but from what i hear around me people want it because they won't invest in expensive camshaft swaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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