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Barbie cars... Grind hard plumbing co.


evilscorp

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So I watch donut media on youtube which then gets you into other weird places then next minute you end up driving 50miles to buy a broken kids quad and decide your strimmer no longer needs a place in your shed.

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Kids quad minus an engine as it broke, fortunately I got some parts of it like the gearbox and exhaust and they fit my strimmer... hopefully.

The quad had a 40cc engine and the ebay strimmer is 50cc? So no replacement for displacement? lol (no doubt this will increase to a motorbike engine after trials).

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So if you have youtubed barbie car you might see where this is going and why the frame is getting stripped.

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The engine will be going here at the front, the brackets that are already there will help for mounting points.

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The rear is the problem.

The drive sprocket is in the middle and the chain will be where my ass is going so I need to shift it to the right. Hopefully I can weld a flange onto the shiny driveshaft and simply unbolt the sprocket and move it over so the chain runs down the side.

Next issue is the rear suspension needs to go so the chain stays taught and drifts happen =) Not sure what way I will do this yet and I will have to reinforce the chassis front to back as the old seating location (everything behind the steering column is getting cut off to make way for a kart seat.)

The feet rests will be unbolted and I might try to use that steel pipe for adding width to the chassis.

 

I just missed out on a kids two seater pink porsche on ebay that would have been ideal so I will need to wait for something else to come up. (don't want to spend money, needs to be pink and big enough for me and the chassis to fit in, probably 1m long but need to measure.)

 

Love this sh@*t

 

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On 10/09/2019 at 16:55, rabbitstew said:

That chain doesnt look very strong, would using a motorbike chain be better? Wouldnt want it to snap. Looking forward to seeing how this project progresses!

I think it is a motorbike chain, probably 2 or 3x as big as a push bike.

 

Cut the chassis today and decided to change my mind on rear suspension.

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Going to use the shock (if I can) so I needed to move the tie in point further back so I can have space for a seat.

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Just need to weld it into place once I am happy.

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Obviously it will be going on straight just rough mock up.

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Thought I was gonna be super lucky today but only half came through.

The extra long bolts I need for the gearbox were the same size as my spare cosworth plenum bolts but sadly just a bit too long.

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But the main good news is that it was only needing a new spark plug to get the engine to work again (new carb went on anyway but is a smaller inlet so I might swap the old one back.) 

I used the spare spark plug from the box of parts I was given with the quad and it runs fine, just need to adjust the idle .71184580_10162354134510441_6276180691113

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Anyone with bike experience know if the preload on these springs can be adjusted? Looks like they are at the lowest setting and it seems I am too fat for kids quad bike shocks (when mounted incorrectly). It should only need tightening up a small bit as it nearly takes my weight, otherwise its solid mounted rear suspension.

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I might need to make guards or somewhere for my feet lol. The drive chain will dictate how high I can have them positioned.69762749_10162354772740441_2338031031728

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The motorbike chains I use dont have that circlip, they use rivets to attach the spare link so bit stronger, but you might be okay. Just make sure you fabricate some sort of chain guard to be on the safe side! :thumbs: Be good if you could fabricate something on the rear axle to take a motorbike sprocket, then you would have easy gearing adjustment to whatever you wanted.

 

That shock you can adjust the preload using  C spanner and turning the bottom bit around. Like you say, it looks like its on the lowest setting atm. Sometimes you can use a big screw driver and a hammer to knock that bottom bit around.

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Thanks for the tip rabbitstew, my spring compressors dont fit so I will try that method.

 

Took the old sprocket off so I can gauge how I am going to mount it.

It's going to be tricky to mount it central if i weld a plate to the rear drive bar.

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This is a rough mock up of how i might have it all setup. Not a fan of the exhaust pointing at me but hopefully i can heat and bend the exhaust that I was given to point down the side of the car where the chain drive is so I know which way to exit in case of emergency lol.

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Made the mounts but need more as the thing likes to shake bolts loose lol.

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The exhaust might need to be re routed as it might get in the way lol.

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But what a difference it makes, much quieter, now all I need to do is figure out how to set the idle speed.

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I am undecided if I should make a middle jack shaft to keep the oem sprocket location on the back and use two shorter chains for less issues with tension or if I should just use an extra long one and try welding a plate on the rear driveshaft for the sprocket to be side mounted.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Steering wheel and throttle sorted, just need to uncrimp a fitting for the carb to attach it.

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Need to go to a scrappy maybe for a bike brake or something on the other side.

The seat also arrived- good point- it fits me perfectly.

-bad point- I can't mount it low down where I want as my legs wont fit/hit the steering and will probably get cut off by the drive chain.

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So it might have to go here.

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going to faf about with some mounts for it so I can move it about and see where's best to put it.

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Need a milling machine or lathe in my life.

Trying to make a plate to weld onto the rear axle to mount the drive gear to (so I can swap it out for different sizes if needed. Got a stepped drill bit coming today to cut the central hole.

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Placement of fuel tank for mocking up a fixing flange, also reusing some pipe for strengthening the frame and keeping my legs away from death chain.

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starting the foot plate.

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I must say I like it.

A couple of concerns though.

Its hard to judge scale but that tube frame looks really flimsy for an adults weight.

You are sat right over the rear wheels so it might be strong enough.... but might be prone to wheelies given the centre of gravity.

Please wear some sort of good eye and testicle protection.

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Lol, thanks for the concern. The chassis is not even close to being complete, going to have some tube or L shaped steel members front to back to keep the toy car held up and to increase strength. The car windsheild might actually cover the direct exhaust line but I will probably wear my race helmet for a while.

Flame retardant pants might be an option as the fuel tank is going there but the chain will be down the side and I will be making a gaurd.

The engine up front should help stop wheelies but a bigger heavier engine might be needed =)

The tube is 1" so not bad the thin stuff holding my legs in is flimsy and will be getting welded and reinforced. 

 

As I didn't have a body previously it was all a bit guess work but now I know where everything has to go.

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10 hours ago, Impressed said:

Please wear some sort of good eye and testicle protection.

:lol: very true!

 

Tough one with seating position, but your a bit restricted. I do wonder if there will be too much grip at the back with an adults weight on the back wheels to allow for drifting, but you wont really know until you try.  Looking good though! :thumbs:

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Not really sure what way the project will go, turns out I am stuck with the original small engine just now due to direction of these engines rotation, the gearbox reverses the direction which is ideal for going down the right hand side of the car.

 

Probably will barely get above 10mph but we will see, I have a habit of going ott but never actually completing stuff.

 

Anyway I found this on a facebook add for free uplift under a bunch of toys and wendy houses, it's ideal and FREE!!!

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Also got a free bench drill and 3 free costa coffee's ( I was totally winning that day).

But the drill has no chuck so need to wait as it just spins the drill bit.

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started to dismantle the car... lots of screws and brittle plastic light covers, also the body work slots are a pain in the ass to remove.

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Errmmm it looks a bit big lol.

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cut .... cut.... cut ...dead dremel .... angle grinder and hot molten plastic.

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4x4 stance.

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these suck to unpop/clip, soooo stiff.

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getting there.

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low rider.

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So the issue is the quad chassis is too short (which is kinda a good thing) So I plan to cut the front off and weld in 5-6inches of pipe to get the correct length for the wheel arches. and I also need to angle the steering backwards to clear the windscreen, this might be the tricky part. 

I am hoping I can cut the base plate and angle it without too much hassle and then mount the upper bush the other side of the cross beam.

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might even be able to mount the seat like this but a tad further back after some chopping.

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I might get away with it.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

So things have been moving slow on this project as I now have 3.5 cars. I had registered interest in a new suzuki jimny and was told it would be next year before mine would be here.... then I got a phone call last week saying its at the dealer lol.... then my rust bucket 200sx that was away getting work done on and had been since April was ready (after being told this many times before) so I went to collect it. It wasn't ready but I wanted it out of the shop so took it back and now waiting on paypal to refund some money.

Some pictures of things: :lol:

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first and only mod lol bit of carbon wrap to protect the metal as I will be throwing stuff in and out a lot.

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In a sad state, hopefully the wiring is ok, just need to make some seat mounts as they were cut out and not replaced, also need to weld in the cage myself now and buy some dimple dies.

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more mock up but this will be the ride height.

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made the engine mount just need to do the frame to hold the body at the desired height and the 1 million other jobs.

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