Kryptek49 Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 (edited) I'm based in Kings Lynn, Norfolk, I just got 4 new tyres fitted and wanted to get the tracking looked at as the wear wasn't 100% even on the old tyres. I've phoned up a local performance specialist who charges £120 for a full alignment. I get that he deals with fast cars alot but is that not quite a lot for an aligment? He uses the 3D Hunter system, but so does Kwik-Fit who charge about half the price. Is this normal for a quote, or should I shop around more? If anyone knows of a good shop local to me that would be great. If rather avoid places like Kwif-Fit/Halfords and go to someone who knows what they're doing. Edited August 12, 2019 by Kryptek49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Shop around, a lot of places hear 350z and instantly add sports car added tax for labour times sadly. Kwik Fit will be fine showing before and after print out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Unless you have full adjustable suspension, you aren't getting a full alignment anywhere. Is your car stock ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 You get what you pay for. If you just want the wheels pointing straight then go to quikfit, if you want a proper setup then go to somewhere that’s knows what they’re talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Kwik-Fit and the likes will panic if they come across a seized snail cam bolt and will probably break it, which will cost you more in the long run. £100.00 + vat sounds about right from a specialist. Just pay the money with the assurance that it will be done right. However, if your car is stock explain to them that there is no camber adjustment on the front or Caster front or rear and perhaps they will negotiate on price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 Thanks all for the advice. The suspension is stock, but I would rather not have somewhere like Kwik-Fit mess about with it, so will stick with the specialist. Thanks for confirmation on the price Alex. I'll mention your points on camber & caster and see if they are willing to negotiate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 To help out whom ever you end up choosing, spray the crap out of the bolts and tie rod ends in something like wd40 (much better stuff out there but you probably have a can at home) the night before. It may make the difference between a quick and painless job, to something like Alex pointed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 I had mine done by Drury Lane Garage in Manchester last year. The car felt more planted once it was all done. My car is standard too. I paid £144 inc vat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 36 minutes ago, RobPhoboS said: To help out whom ever you end up choosing, spray the crap out of the bolts and tie rod ends in something like wd40 (much better stuff out there but you probably have a can at home) the night before. It may make the difference between a quick and painless job, to something like Alex pointed out. I'll do that! I've actually just ordered some Whiteline lowering springs which I will fit on Wednesday before the alignment on Thurs, so shall spray everything then. 28 minutes ago, mr v6 said: I had mine done by Drury Lane Garage in Manchester last year. The car felt more planted once it was all done. My car is standard too. I paid £144 inc vat. Just googled them and this was the first pic from Google - yours by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Fitting lowering springs will affect the geometry settings and depending on how much you drop you may find that the stock rear snail cam adjusters may not have enough adjustment in them to get your settings to within factory tolerances. Also as there is no camber adjustment on the front you may have similar issues there as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 On 12/08/2019 at 16:54, Kryptek49 said: I'll do that! I've actually just ordered some Whiteline lowering springs which I will fit on Wednesday before the alignment on Thurs, so shall spray everything then. Just googled them and this was the first pic from Google - yours by any chance? That is indeed mine, although on the old wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cimanu Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Was done in the last year I owned it mate, print out should be in the history to give you an idea of where it is/was Think that was £80 off the top of my head on a laser rig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 2 hours ago, Cimanu said: Was done in the last year I owned it mate, print out should be in the history to give you an idea of where it is/was Think that was £80 off the top of my head on a laser rig I curbed it doing 60 so probably need it done... Still goes perfectly straight but want it checked just to be sure. I'm also fitting lowering springs this/next week and don't want to wear my new tyres oddly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Took it to the garage today - not too impressed with them as the steering wheel is now off centre. The guy also seemed a bit off, I won't be going there again (apart from when I go back to get the tracking re done because they did a crap job...) Anyway, he's also said that he couldn't adjust the rear toe or camber as the bolts are completely stuck. The camber is almost in spec so it's not a huge deal right now, but does anyone know what parts I need to replace to get this sorted in the hopefully distant future? He reckons I'd probably need to cut the old bolts off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 The fronts didn't look too bad before and look even better now. Possibly the left rear is causing the steering wheel to be off center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I cant believe that positive camber at the front is within factory spec. No wonder zeds understeer badly out of the box, i know they have to make every new car design understeer at its limits but positive camber on a sports car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Welcome to the world of the snowflake. Heaven forbid a car should actually handle properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) 14 hours ago, G1en@waxandshine said: I cant believe that positive camber at the front is within factory spec. No wonder zeds understeer badly out of the box, i know they have to make every new car design understeer at its limits but positive camber on a sports car? So to make the car drive as well as possible, while also trying to reduce tyre wear, what would be the recommended front camber setting? Edited August 23, 2019 by Kryptek49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Just thinking about it, if there's no camber adjustment on the front, and the rear camber/toe bolt was stuck, I've just paid £75 for them to minutely adjust my front toe? That seems very excessive doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 13 minutes ago, Kryptek49 said: So to make the car drive as well as possible, while also trying to reduce tyre wear, what would be the recommended front camber setting? It tells you the tollerences on the print out that you got from the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 10 minutes ago, Kryptek49 said: Just thinking about it, if there's no camber adjustment on the front, and the rear camber/toe bolt was stuck, I've just paid £75 for them to minutely adjust my front toe? That seems very excessive doesn't it? It is not the garages fault that the bolts were seized. They would have spent time trying to loosen the snail cam bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 55 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said: It tells you the tollerences on the print out that you got from the garage. Yeah I can see the OEM specifications in the middle column, I was just replying to @G1en@waxandshine's comment about positive camber being a poor OEM spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 The oem spec will take tyre wear and comfort etc into account. The “best” setup will depend on your usage and driving style but the more camber & toe you dial in will obviously reduce tyre life and comfort. I am not a geo specialist but my car is set at camber -3”00 front -1”30 rear and zero toe in/out which i feel gives a good neutral balance when pushing on the limit but that is mainly track/fast use. Its taken me around 4 setup changes to get to somewhere i feel happy. For a more road oriented car possibly -1”30 all round would be a good starting point but again it depends on tyre sizes/widths/makes as this can have a major bearing on handling as can tyre pressures. The main issue you have is like Alex has said, without fitting adjustable arms/bolts you have very little movement on factory cars so you are more or less stuck with what you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kryptek49 Posted August 25, 2019 Author Share Posted August 25, 2019 Just after a quick bit of advice if anyone can help I've just taken the car for the first proper drive since the alignment, and it feels terrible. The steering feels very light and vague, I don't have any confidence in pushing the car around a tight corner, it's hard to explain but it definitely doesn't feel right. The alignment specs I've posted above appear to be okay, so what is now causing this? In the last month, I've fitted 4 x MPS4's, Tein lowering springs (which should increase handling), and now got an alignment. If anything the car should feel much better than it used to? Could the wheel being off centre cause the steering issues? The car still seems to track straight, so I really don't know. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I take the car back to the garage next Saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Have you checked the tyre pressures? Did the garage adjust them prior to adjustment. I can't seeing it being the cost to the garage as they hardly adjusted anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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