ricochet Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 When the nsf wheel bearing/hub was being replaced this was noted , is it significant ? I believe its what is known as the banana arm . it is the same both sides. 2004 Coupe 113k miles , just passed MOT. All helpful comments welcomed, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) No. It's a superpro poly bushing (with caster adjustment) Edited November 26, 2018 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 Thanks Rob, I was asking particularly because there is a low speed clonking coming from the front (I think) of course there is no movement anywhere even with a big pry bar so I wondered if these bushes were moving under stress. A hairy brawny mechanic said he did manage to find a smidgen of movement in a drop link but I think DLs have a higher pitched sound. Does 'caster adjustment' mean I should have some adjustable suspension arm(s)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 (edited) So that's likely to be the other end of the arm/rod. Unfortunately the other end is a sealed ball joint type of bolt. Search for 'banana arm rattle' or 'compression arm rattle', and you'll see plenty of threads, it's common but quite hard to diagnose. It's more than likely to be this, so buy new ones and have the old super pro bushings pressed out, and pressed into the new arms. If you leave the stock rubber bushings in the new arms you're likely to notice slower steering responses typically. Check out the sponsored sellers, I know Torqen has a range of them not just the Nissan made one's. Any problems, just ask as I've done my ones a few times over the years. Out of curiosity, is your car lowered? Re: caster It's up to you, and depending on your cars caster if it needs more or less. If it's within spec just make sure it's pressed in the same orientation. SuperPro have a pdf iirc on their website. Edited December 4, 2018 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 apologies Rob for not replying earlier. Z is not lowered but has 10mm wheel spacers. Do the Super Pro bushes not wear out then? Will try and find original purchase/fitting details . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 35 minutes ago, ricochet said: apologies Rob for not replying earlier. Z is not lowered but has 10mm wheel spacers. Do the Super Pro bushes not wear out then? Will try and find original purchase/fitting details . No worries. You'll be fine, and no they shouldn't wear out at all ! It's only the opposite end of the bar that eventually starts rattling, so yep it's worth pressing out and putting into the new ones (if that's exactly what is knackered). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 So I've eventually bought two arms from TarmacSportz and will take Z end of next week for sorting out . just for reference I had 4wheel alignment carried out , result should be attached. I think I understand the significance of some of the figures but I would appreciate observations/comments from those who know more than me, thanks jc Zsuspension.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 From the attached geometry print out, the readings in red are outwith factory spec and require adjustment. Also, normally when you have excessive negative front camber it is because the suspension is lowered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 From the toe readings your car will be naturally wanting to do a big anti clockwise circle. Both of front wheels pointing slightly left, both of rears pointing slightly right. If you were taking a slight left with 4-wheel steering car this would be the setup but needs correction for setting up neutral. The camber settings are fine (although fronts are red) as negative 1,30 all round is a good starting point for handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Thanks for the comments guys , appreciated. Car is not lowered (afaik) but has 15mm spacers. The coloured depictions are good aren't they? More understandable at a glance than +/- numbers. so when the arms are replaced , and hopefully the caster adj bushes are transferred some adjustments should bring things back into spec.. front toe should be sortable. Camber is on the very edge of spec, and I have seen 1'30" rec on here for road use,.. I believe there is adjustment on the rears , if it isn't seized that would sort the rear toe , and then I won't be driving in a big circle!! just as a matter of interest is it possible to work out how big that circle is? jc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 Oh Dear!, banana arms replaced with the super pro bushes carefully transferred in the same alignment, and its still clonking/knocking, What can it be? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 23 minutes ago, ricochet said: Oh Dear!, banana arms replaced with the super pro bushes carefully transferred in the same alignment, and its still clonking/knocking, What can it be? jc Banana arm ball joints perhaps if you fitted the bushings to the old arms. Also, perhaps worn drop links. Could be numerous things but very easy to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 They are new arms (moog) with the super pro bushes transferred from the old arms .it wouldn't be these bushes would it? Drop links do not seem to have any movement in them, but in the large scheme of things not to expensive , what might be next to look at ? Glen the mechanic is experienced and a former racer and cannot see anything obvious, thanks for the reply JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 37 minutes ago, ricochet said: They are new arms (moog) with the super pro bushes transferred from the old arms .it wouldn't be these bushes would it? Drop links do not seem to have any movement in them, but in the large scheme of things not to expensive , what might be next to look at ? Glen the mechanic is experienced and a former racer and cannot see anything obvious, thanks for the reply JC The level of movement is often hard to spot, you can either undo the drop links and see if they seem stiff and firm or loose and wobbly or if you can replicate the clunk on the driveway or whatnot just undo the droplinks and see if that cures the clunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 Thanks for that suggestion , will try asap. .....cheers JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Could be suspension shock absorber top mount, I had that be loose on a previous car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahameJ Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 On 28/10/2019 at 11:38, MDMetal said: The level of movement is often hard to spot, you can either undo the drop links and see if they seem stiff and firm or loose and wobbly or if you can replicate the clunk on the driveway or whatnot just undo the droplinks and see if that cures the clunk. You can test the drop links by parking with two wheels on the pavement kerb, turn the steering to full lock and then drive off the kerb. If it's the drop links you should hear a clunk when the car drops back onto the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 Drop links on order, apparently when disconnected noise was certainly reduced. no sign of slack in top mounts. Will let you know. Thanks for replying , its good to know people are so helpful. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Great News!! Sorted using BluePrint drop links. the knocking /clonking that has been there for ages has gone, I can't say how much more enjoyable the Z is now. off for a 4-wheel alignment check on Thursday. So now I have two brand new bushes which were pressed out of the new banana arms ( replaced by the existing SuperPro bushes) and the seemingly not faulty existing banana arm ( minus its super Pro bushes). Thanks for all help guys, the moral is : check the easiest / cheapest first , hindsight is wonderful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricochet Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 Current measurements look OK, unless somebody can spot something ?? regards jcZsuspension2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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