danielb186 Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 (edited) Hey guys, so I have a 2004 350z, It didn't come with cruise control, can anyone recommend a decent tuner in the northeast to flash the correct software onto my ECU? (I have all the switches ready) Also, I have been looking into the TSC and ABS delete now I've figured out that the "G sensor" under the center dash controls the TSC so I need to add a switch to the earth so I can turn it on and off is that correct? The other Thing I'm struggling with is the ABS, now I'd really like this on a switch (I have my reasons why I'd like it this way) but the only way I've seen how to do this is the multi fuse near the battery, people have said add a switch through that but I'm unsure how that would work? Any advice? Thanks in advance. =D Edited July 23, 2018 by danielb186 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Not sure on the difference between years, but there's a connector on the ABS module (near brake fluid res) that you can unplug to disable all stability aids. Install an inline switch into one of those wires and it should sort you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 10 minutes ago, OnlyAfro said: Not sure on the difference between years, but there's a connector on the ABS module (near brake fluid res) that you can unplug to disable all stability aids. Install an inline switch into one of those wires and it should sort you out. This is accurate for an 04 - I have one and have done this a few times. or just do what the @The Chubby Ninja suggested to me on my first drift day and just unplug it when you want to hoon and plug back in when you want to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 27 minutes ago, OnlyAfro said: Not sure on the difference between years, but there's a connector on the ABS module (near brake fluid res) that you can unplug to disable all stability aids. Install an inline switch into one of those wires and it should sort you out. Will this disable everything? TSC,VDC and ABS or will I need to do the yawn switch as well? Also any pictures so I know what I'm looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 (edited) @OnlyAfro Thank you for your help I'll wire a switch in later =D I used to having a daily drifter so I miss being able to "have fun" when I want to Edited July 21, 2018 by danielb186 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Pulling the black connector out of the ABS module itself seemed to work for me too, but that was on an 07. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 by the way, any idea which wire is best to add the switch too? I believe grounds are normally best =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Yeah it turns everything off. I'm not sure which one is the ground but im sure you could test it with a multimeter. I don't know about your driving or car use but you could just leave it unplugged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 (edited) I had a look can someone advise me which plug it is? I think its the bottom one in the first picture? Also its connected to a metal bracket with very little access any idea how to get at it? Edited July 21, 2018 by danielb186 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Huh, what year is your car? You appear to have facelift wiring, facelift bumper, but pre-facelift headlights. It's easier on the original DE, cos there's only 1 connector there. As for which connector, I've never touched that block of 3, but unplugging the light grey connector in the first pic brings up the ABS, VDC and slip lights on the dash. Haven't tried the darker grey connector next to it, but it might work, try and see what happens - I just guessed and pulled one, but that doesn't mean it's the right one. Alternatively, unplugging the cylindrical black connector from the big metal ABS block itself also seems to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Worked perfect guy's thank you!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 @Lurch @OnlyAfro hey guys so after I've disconnected that plug and all the lights came on i tried to do a sitting burnout.. It didn't go well I reved the car up to about 4.5k dumped the clutch went straight over to the brake, and the car just bogged down and tried to stall. I tried using less brakes but still does the same thing. Is there something I'm missing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Burnouts are a different matter I believe. Even with all driver aids disabled, the ECU cuts power if it detects simultaneous brake and throttle unless you pull the brake light fuse. Can't remember if there was a workaround without losing brake lights or whether it can be mapped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Oh that makes sense... Any idea where the fuse is? I may wire a switch to that too so I can turn it off to do a burnout then turn it back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Think it's the one in the footwell labelled brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Ok ill try and find it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) 10A IIRC. Did you try unplug the dark grey connector next the the ABS module or just go with the light grey or black cylinder one? Curious what happens, but they are right faff to unplug. Edited July 23, 2018 by OnlyAfro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Just the light grey one, after all those lights came on i assumed I got the right one didn't realise about the burnout issue. I will wire that light gret plug to the traction control switch in the car, then Ill add another switch for the brake light fuse and hope that solves my issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 There's always the option of line lock if you are planning regular burnouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Ive heard you can get that mapped in? Ive never looked into line lock so I'd have no Idea where to start with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thinking about it im a drifter so I need to left food brake so line lock wouldn't work for me. :/ I'll have to wire in a switch the the brake light fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, OnlyAfro said: Even with all driver aids disabled, the ECU cuts power if it detects simultaneous brake and throttle unless you pull the brake light fuse. Can't remember if there was a workaround without losing brake lights or whether it can be mapped out. Just remembered that this is exactly what the ARC burnout licence (optional extra as part of the remap) does. Edited July 23, 2018 by OnlyAfro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Got curious and unplugged the dark grey connector as well as the light grey - made no noticeable additional difference. However, if you leave both those grey connectors in and instead unplug the black cylinder (highlighted in blue below) that I mentioned before, you still get the ABS / ESP and skid lights, implying they are all disabled, but you don't get the parking brake dash light ((!)) permanently on. Benefits: - That black cylinder is much easier to access and unplug / replug and has less wires, so choosing a wire to switch is easier - The parking brake dash light is also used to indicate low brake fluid, so you will keep that warning should you get low for whatever reason - No red lights on the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielb186 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Doesn't that one also cut the spedo though? Also how much is it to get that mapped on? I also need cruise control activating on my ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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