Guest Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Hey all, So my rear right is losing air pressure. It was a problem with the last tyre, but I let it slide. That tyre was recently punctured and replaced, but it is still losing air pressure, so I'm guessing it could be an issue with the wheel itself? Any idea what might cause this and whether it is fixable? Expensive wheels are expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 This is what I use: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Thanks Alex =) is it a case of having the tyre off and getting whoever is fitting it to apply this? Does it mean there is something wrong structurally with the wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 I can not comment on the condition of the wheel from where I am sat. However, the usual reason for pressure loss from the bead is corroded or dirty faces. If you take the wheel off and lie it flat and apply a mixture of water and fairy liquid all the way around the bead, you will soon see where it is leaking. Tyre does not require to come all the way off to apply the sealer, all you have to do is break the bead. However, to clean up properly the tyre is best removed. Your tyre people will know how to fix a leaking tyre and they will also have the sealer that they will use on a daily basis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 A friend once ran cheap replica wheels on his Audi. Forever losing pressure on 2 wheels. On further investigation the fitter then mentioned it was cracks in his alloys and recommended welding the cracks! After welding it was fine for a few months.....then the cracks returned. Not sure I'd feel safe running on cracked rims even after welding/repair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Thanks Alex, I will have somebody take a look, there shouldn't be any corrosion from what I can see, but perhaps people are just being lazy when fitting new tyres and not cleaning it properly. Headphones, a crack or something was my concern. I can't see anything, and the rate at which it is losing air seems to be 10psi in a month. The wheels are Rays Volks TE37 so aren't of shoddy build, but I'm not ruling it out. I will have someone check over the alloy thoroughly while they are rebeading the tyre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Shouldn't be a cracked Volk then. I had metal valves on my rims when originally purchased that went faulty after a few years and lost pressure. Hopefully just a cheap rebead or valve then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben–350Z Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 18 hours ago, HEADPHONES said: I had metal valves on my rims I had a V6 Mondeo with those, too - used to corrode like mad around the valves. Of course the wheels were also made of cheese anyway... The other thing they suffered from was corrosion on the inside, sort of on the part where the tyre bead sits. Guess that let air between the actual alloy and the "finished" surface. Should be noticed by anyone changing the tyre, but could be a possibility, maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 Thanks all for the info, have it booked in for tomorrow to get it looked at and hopefully sorted =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Bad news, it's a crack I don't think I've ever hit anything with it, so I'm guessing it was either like it when purchased from a forum member or a structural flaw has subsequently revealed itself. Off to a welders next week to see if it can be repaired, otherwise I have to try and find 1 x older TE37 in the right dimensions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Oh, and apparently my dual mass flywheel is on its way out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben–350Z Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Damn that sucks. Hope it can be welded! On the plus side, excuse for a lighter flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 If I'm poking around in there for the flywheel I guess it's worth doing the clutch at the same time, it's done 120k and gets abused more by me than the previous owner... it's just money I'd rather be spending on different car things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeybrain1234 Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Yes most definatley get the flywheel and clutch done together. You could go for the lightned flywheel and an upgraded clutch particulary if you bang through your gears like you stole it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben–350Z Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Doom said: it's just money I'd rather be spending on different car things! I know the feeling - I think I might have finished my clutch off in a moment of childish exuberance... Got to work early, empty car park.... Yah. Tyres have better grip on the road than the clutch does on the flywheel. But yes, one of those things if the gearbox is coming off, might as well do both. I see lots of things about changing the clutch slave cylinder at the same time..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 6 hours ago, Ben–350Z said: I think I might have finished my clutch off in a moment of childish exuberance... Got to work early, empty car park.... Yah. Tyres have better grip on the road than the clutch does on the flywheel. That sucks about your clutch dude =/ I struggle to get mine to break traction, but that's mostly the point, I like it to corner not slide Yes to the slave cylinder, is known for dying and is a cheap thing to replace and uprate while everything is off. Probably worth doing braided clutch line at same time, but that's all for a clutch thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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