burntorange Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 I have had a month of woes changing lots of things before going for a remap, which i finally have done - woooooo! My only issue i am left with is this. Ever since having my JWT lightweight flywheel and clutch fitted, my clutch peddle position had dipped really low and would have to be 100% depressed to be engaged and the bite point was almost instant as you released pressure. This progressively got worse to the point i could barely change gear - not good - this was only over a few days whilst i waited for my replacement slave cyclinder. When it arrived i booked it in right away and got that replaced. When i got there the clutch peddle was inline with the rest of my peddles until i drove it a few hundred meters down the road and it was again sitting in the same position, so i went back to state the issue. We sat around and tested a variety of things which i will detail the findings below to see if any of you can help. With the engine off and the clutch fluid reservoir open (top off) I was able to pump the clutch peddle from fully out to fully in no problems. this led us to believe maybe too much fluid in there, so drained some out, replaced the lid on the clutch reservoir and it was sticking again. Maybe this was because the air flow holes in the lid were blocked, investigated and found no blocks in airway. So we decided to remove the plastic valve under the rubber flexi seal on the lid, this seemed to help a little. next we got the engine running and as soon as the engine was on the peddle stuck about half way and would only ping back up with a little help and then it would stay that way until i stopped pumping the peddle for a minute and when i came back to trying it again it was stuck until i helped it back up and it would be ok until i stopped pumping the peddle for a minute. This led said mechanic to believe this was the clutch not pushing back as much as the OEM clutch on release and why the peddle only moves back half way. he got the car up on a ramp and said he could shim the end of the rod of the slave cylinder to increase the travel of the peddle, which it did, he reckoned that it might be the spring of the clutch peddle getting stuck in the half way position so by shimming it it should push it that extra bit further to stop this. After this we agreed i would drive it around and see if that made any difference else get a new master cylinder. Now this hasnt cured my problem, the peddle does tend to get stuck on its return if i havent pumped the peddle for over a minute which in normal driving is the case, most times it will return on its own, not right away though, youll just notice 10 seconds after a gear change a loud ping as it springs back into place. This is not ideal as you can image and means the clutch has no real feeling of engagement until around 35 to 40% of peddle travel inwards. Is my solution a new master? had no issues at all before this new clutch kit. All opinions appreciated cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Your solution is to bleed the clutch properly and get all the air out the hydraulic system: (very common problem) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 I would have hoped they would had bled the clutch properly, is this literally the only thing it could be? as that would be annoying and a waste of a slave cylinder and fitting costs!!!! grrrr, I personally have only ever bled a clutch on a bike, is it easy enough without garage lift ramps? gonna have to use the search ,which as a web developer think is a pita on this website, put anything more than a single word in and it replaces the spaces with + symbols which then brings up nothing, so have to remove the + it has added on the results page and research which then it will successfully search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 9/10 this is what it will be. Very easy, however 3 man operation. Best to bleed the slave on the bench before fitting. https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/67376-how-to-change-clutch-fluid/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 well, not impressed if ive had to pay twice for it!! you think for sake of £40 quid fitting and fluid bleed its not worth the hassle doing it yourself, just shows if this is the case, you want a job doing properly...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimg Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Sometimes if you jam the clutch pedal down with a stick or something over night or longer it gets all the air out, it worked on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Quick question, has anyone ever reverse bled their clutch system with success? I have a massive syringe with rubber tubing on the end i last used to reverse bleed my bike with ease, wondering if these would have any issue doing it this way. Dont need 3 people then im thinking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Reverse bleeding not possible I am afraid. One way valve in pipework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 2 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said: Reverse bleeding not possible I am afraid. One way valve in pipework. ahhhh drat, double drat! well thanks for this info saves me trying haha. ill have to recruit the missus, oh what fun that shall be, good job this forum is my safe haven so i can get away with saying that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 11 minutes ago, Bigjimg said: Sometimes if you jam the clutch pedal down with a stick or something over night or longer it gets all the air out, it worked on mine. If this will actually work ill give it ago before bleeding it properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.