burntorange Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 So i have a jwt lightweight flywheel and clutch on the way...getting a custom made dual flow exhaust done....i will be doing the plenum and air filter stuff and then going for a remap....but im wondering what else can we do to increase acceleration without fi......like lightening the flywheel etc.....i have heard you can change the final drive but what else?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eigen Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Final drive will do it, but expect fuel economy to suffer and high revs at highway speeds. A small mod, that might be worthwhile if you have a DE is to get rid of the parasitic idler pulley, it will lose you about 500g of rotating mass from the engine, not a whole lot, but it is a very cheap mod ~20 pounds in parts, all you need is a smaller belt and a spacer, cheaper if you can machine the necessary spacer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Lose as much car weight as is practical is always a win. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 Hmmmm i will look into that idler pulley....i have access to a cnc machine so i imagine i could machine this spacer if i knew what it needed to be.....research needed here...... Is there any obvious weight savings but still keeping it a nice looking daily?? Also anything else as far as suggestions go keep em coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 26 minutes ago, burntorange said: ... Is there any obvious weight savings but still keeping it a nice looking daily?? That will be down to you as what is one man's food is another man's poison. The leather heated seats are very heavy and that would be a great weight saving. Also loads of trim stuff that you could bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 There is a guy on youtube i stumbled accross watching 350z stuff that has stripped his zed out to the extreme but everywhere he can save weight he has. He is called thatbluezguy it will give you some ideas if you want to take things further. He claims to have the lightest 350 in the world. Obvious ones to start with are stainless/titanium exhaust, lightweight bucket seats, sports/decats, lightweight fly, remove spare wheel and jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Is this for drag stuff? If so tyres and softer rear springs will help you get off the line with minimal wheel spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Wheels are a great place to lose weight from, however if you have Rays on then probably not worth looking at anything else unless you've got serious cash to burn. From a standing start, the tyres will be the other big place to make gains from. The quicker you can transfer the power down the quicker you'll be moving, so pick a semi-slick to suit your budget and go from there. Aside from that, it's just going to be about weight as others have already said. Saving weight will be better than 5bhp extra from a filter, and cheaper too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldel Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Apparently there is a tonne of sound deadening material in the boot you can strip out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Its not for drag racing, it was more for getting the most of the car as i plan on having it as a daily / odd track day here and there, I do have the rays already on this DE, which is a good start, and im going to getting looking at weight saving including the parasitic idler pully. does anyone know the weight of the original leather heated seats? be good to have something to comapre to when shopping around. Cheers for all suggestions so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 I dont know the exact weight but i estimated about 25kg each when i removed mine, replaced with bucket seats and rails at around 10kg each so a nice saving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) Check out these for inspiration. Goes a bit beyond what you'd want for a daily, but gives you an idea: 2725lbs (1236kg) Z - https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/595172-350z-gutted-weight-loss-pics-nasa-ttc-prep.html Lots of part weights - https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/416242-z-part-weights-with-pictures.html Another lightweight, approx 2905lbs (1318kg) with part weights - http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/173-nissan-350z/69348-official-3point5-weight-reduction-thread-ongoing.html Also worth thinking about weight distribution - relocating the battery into the boot for example - or you'll end up with an even greater front bias. Acceleration from 0 or at low (legal) speeds is traction limited, but if you want acceleration at higher speeds without FI, then NOS is your friend. Edited April 9, 2018 by OnlyAfro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 My knowledge of nos and its affects on the engine are next to nothing..... is it safe to boost with nos without upgrading internals?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 48 minutes ago, burntorange said: My knowledge of nos and its affects on the engine are next to nothing..... is it safe to boost with nos without upgrading internals?? If done properly and you don't go crazy, it's safe, and costs as little as £1k or so. Stock internals are fine up to ~400whp / torque, so you can safely do a 50/75 shot of NOS. Unlike FI where the power and extra strain is always present, typically with NOS you will have a window switch so it only squirts between say 3k and 6k rpm and a controller so the NOS is progressive, making things even safer. It can be run on the stock ECU and all sorted when you get an UpRev, including a small retard for Men Without Hats levels of safety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 I dont know too much about Nos, a quick read told me that the 50/75 shot is apparently to do with the extra horsepower to be gained by using the Nos....In that case why 50/75 if the engine is fine for 400whp, could you not run 100shot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnlyAfro Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 You can run 100, or even 125, on stock internals, but it requires more retard and you'd probably want to use an aftermarket ECU, which is expensive. It depends what your priorities are - personally I'd rather leave a nice safety margin and stick with 75, but one of the great things about NOS is that if you want more, you just swap out the jets for bigger ones (you get a selection of sizes in a kit) and get it remapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Also be aware that very few places stock NOS these days, and even fewer companies insure cars with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 I have NOS, don’t bother, it’s a complete pain to get hold of and only Greenlight and Adrian Flux will insure you. I’m actually considering disconnecting the whole system and just leaving the tank in the boot for cosmetic purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 tbf i looked into Nos, and i feel by the time youve paid for the install and the constant refills, as they look pricey! may aswell have gone for the FI route! To be honest i think long term, i want to first of all get the basic bolt on upgrades done and remapped. ie Dual flow Zorst, HFC's , Plenum (How expensive!?), free flow filter, possibly the idler pulley, then mapped! then im thinking about improving the handling, now this is where my knowledge really suffers haha but i would like to make the car hang on that little bit more when doing a fast corner before the rear starts to wanna overtake the front, but thats for the suspension thread. After this i think i would like to build the engine and then decide whether i want to go Turbo or Supercharger to make a killer sleeper car. whats peoples thoughts on reliability of either of these options as i know turbo is where more power can be accessed from but supercharger has way less to go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) If you want a fast car, follow the rules: First make it stop, then make it handle, then make it go. If you sort your brakes out then you can carry much more speed that you currently do, then do your suspension so you can corner quicker so waste less speed, then worry about power. The Zed has more than enough grunt as stock, you just need to maximise the weak points (brakes and suspension) to really make the most of it. Edited April 12, 2018 by Ekona 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevoD Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Ls swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay84 Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 57 minutes ago, StevoD said: Ls swap Before or after brakes and handling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay84 Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I've never thought of the zed as a sleeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Regarding brakes... i currently have the gt with the brembo brakes....not that i actually think theyre any good as they are. Think i ruined my pads when i suffered brake fade from braking to a stop at over 150mph.... (on closed roads obvs) Would getting braided hoses do the trick here, new pads for my ruined ones? Btw my knowledge isnt the greatest on modifying cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Braided lines are definitely a plus (and cheap too), then I would change the pads for something you know to be decent. If the discs are okay then leave them be: My current preference is to use reasonably cheap discs and spend the cash on the pads instead. Obvs if you have the money then get some awesome discs as well, but personally I feel you see more benefit from pads than discs pound for pound. In terms of pads, I'd go for the Performance Friction 01 pads on the front and their Z-rated pads on the back. I've had personal experience with these and have found nothing better on road and track, although please check they've not updated their part codes in the last few years! And I really wouldn't worry about putting the 'closed roads' thing on here, no-one's fooled for a minute Just put 'repeated high speed stops' or something equally vague but informative, as at least that way you're not leaving yourself open for prosecution as well as a telling off from the mods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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