Ross k Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Few more updates got the oil cooler fitted to the engine fitted new front and rear main seal and test fitted the flywheel. Then I took the air con pump apart so I can use the housing to support the power steering pump, removed the throttle pedal ready for an s14 pedal. Then I modified the front section to receive the supra rad I've brought I got it second hand fairly cheap so I thought I would give it a go and if it doesnt work I'll sell it on it, fits fairly well and was designed for the engine and means I don't have to run a super long bottom hose. Heres a few pics of what I've got so far also a pic of the aluminium ready to make the engine mounts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_K Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Do you work for an injection mould tool company by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 My dad owns an Injection moulding and engineering company so I'm pretty lucky as he's been helping me out I'm actually a traditional coach builder for the day job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_K Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 That explains it! The last picture was very familiar and looked like it could have been taken at the places I've worked. Great build! Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Few more updates fitted a new oil pump last week removed lower and upper sump cleaned up an resealed. All looks good Inside the engine oil strainer was clean etc also got the flywheel test fitted with the clutch and worked out a few measurements all looks good. finally I made some dowel pins up and fitted them to the adaptor plate please excuse the unorthodox was of stripping to the bottom of the engine down but with it sitting on the adaptor plate it worked a treat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Keep up the good work, following with interest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashback Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Only just found this, but a great read. This should be awesome when finished. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 Thanks for the kind words guys really spurs me on exciting new update one engine mount is done!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 Good day today the engine fits lovely with the new mounts. I also ran the power steering pipe across and did alot of little jobs. you can remove the manifold and Inlet with the engine in position which is a bonus unfortunatlly the engine isn't sitting quite level so I will need to sort that out here's a few pics thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimallie Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Awesome build dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Muxlow Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 This is very interesting, thanks for keeping this updated Ross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 You're so lucky having an in house fabricator to make this stuff.........top work on those mounts! Looks like a good fit and a bonus that you're still able to work around it once in. Although I bet it's about to get really tight when you start to install exhaust, turbo air intake, intercooler pipework etc etc!!! Its all part of the fun though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybp Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 On 2/26/2018 at 22:31, Ross k said: Well small update rad purchased and on the way the mounts are being made done a few small jobs on the car and I have been tracking down various jz parts which cost the earth I need to change the fuel system to a return system Ive seen of the shelf kits for this but they seem a bit wasted on me as I don't need all the parts for the standard 350 fuel rail anyone who could advise on this would be appreciated and wether I can make the kit up myself thanks Ross I made my own fuel return system the only fiddly bit is making up an adapter to replace the standard regulator in the fuel bucket run a return line for the fuel, throw in an external regulator and away you go but nothing too difficult really if you really want to give it a go I''l sort out what info I have for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 Cheers for the help but I brought the cj fuel correction kit in the end for the fuel bucket but I appreciate the advice. Less successful day today trying to work out the gearbox mount also discovered my mishimoto fans won't fit as I only have around 50mm clearance does anyone have any recommendations for very slim pull fans thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 Well not much to update ran the return line front to back u also checked bonnet clearance etc and it's all good I thought you guys may find this pic interesting with the strut brace fitted. It shows the clearance and how much lower the engine sits to the standard de. I also did some crude measurements and I think the 1jz sits around 1 and a half inches further forward than the de and the shifter is 140mm further back than standard so the extra weight should be spread fairly even I also ordered a gearbox mount from America so I'm waiting for that to arrive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cimanu Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 That lower bracket is pure art! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longsh07 Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Loving this build so far, keep up the good work! Also, those ally mounts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Cheers for the kind comments guys progress has been slow. My crossmember from America arrived tried that on and it fits perfectly with our engine mounts which is a result. Also checked the angle of the diff compared to the gearbox for prop allignment please to say they are aligned within 2 degrees I've Been told anything below 5 is good so happy days. After this I pulled the engine again Ive bolted the flywheel up and clutch up for the final time and got the gearbox bolted UP, next time the engine goes in it will be for the final time. After this I ran the power steering return pipe and tapped the crossmember for the bracket I'm happy with how these turned out hope you like thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Engine change modifying can be very time consuming (took as 2 years to put the V8 in a 350) but it's coming along well, those mounts are Keep us updated and good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Cheers for the comments keyser as you say time seems to disappear. Anyway I really could do with some help I'm trying to sort the fuel lines out I have ran a return line under the car and I have it coming up where the other fuel lines run I have to get the fuel lines to the other side of the engine bay I was planning to run the line up into the cavity where the brake servo etc is and then across to the other side in this area is this a good idea. I also don't know what to do with the evap line some people say get rid of it etc any help would be great also may sound stupid but can someone point out which line is which thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybp Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 18 minutes ago, Ross k said: Cheers for the comments keyser as you say time seems to disappear. Anyway I really could do with some help I'm trying to sort the fuel lines out I have ran a return line under the car and I have it coming up where the other fuel lines run I have to get the fuel lines to the other side of the engine bay I was planning to run the line up into the cavity where the brake servo etc is and then across to the other side in this area is this a good idea. I also don't know what to do with the evap line some people say get rid of it etc any help would be great also may sound stupid but can someone point out which line is which thanks Ross The evap line should be the one nearest the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 Thanks alot that helps alot I think I may have it worked out now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Well a fairly successful weekend on the zed first thing was to run the fuel lines to the other side of the engine bay which I've done. After that my short shifter arrived from America so I got that fitted and tested and then welded up its a good bit of kit and I could get all the gears perfectly. Next everything back together finally the manifold inlet etc and dropped the engine back in for the last time bolted the engine all in finally unfortunatlly the shifter doesn't sit quite central and sits a bit further back than I like I may just live with this as it functions perfectly. Got the engine wired up aswell which was surprisingly straight forward now it was all going well till I tested the drive shaft and realised the uj on the new shaft is bigger than the old one meaning it fouls on the tube on the rear of the gear box so at this point I gave up for today. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 (edited) Right guys after some advice does anyone know how to remove the tube of the rear of the gearbox, where the propshaft yoke slides in I presume its a guard to stop dirt going into the oil seal, you can just about see it underneath the shifter in this picture. Also does anyone know how much play a standard 350z driveshaft has in it as in if you hold the propshaft up with one end in the gearbox and the other unbolted but in position on the diff how much would it move left to right hope that makes sense. Edited May 10, 2018 by Ross k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross k Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 A few more things done on the zed firstly got the fuel return line plumbed into the fuel rail then i finished up the power steering system. I needed a new resvoir as I had to relocate it to the other side of the engine bay after looking at aftermarket ones for 100 pound plus I came across a mini one for 15 quid with bracket it's worked spot on and looks decent also got the tube out the back of gearbox allowing me to work the prop out and just done smaller finish up jobs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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