cob1980 Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 2 hours ago, cs2000 said: @cob_1980 - I think it is possible. Ive spent the last 3 days trying to figure it out. Got some components on order so im working on it. It wont be a quick thing to sort out, but looking at getting some proper PCB's made and what not. In theory what I have designed in Eagle should work just fine. Ace! Thank you for taking the time to look at this, it would be a very useful mod. You must have a pretty decent knowledge of electronics to be doing this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 On 01/06/2018 at 18:22, cob1980 said: Ace! Thank you for taking the time to look at this, it would be a very useful mod. You must have a pretty decent knowledge of electronics to be doing this No worries mate, I like challenges! I have a "working" knowledge of electronics, but luckily have a friend based in Australia who designs things like new ECU's for GM cars, he's been assisting me turning my basic understanding into something that A, will work, and B will survive the harsh electrical environment in a vehicle. Plus he's been reviewing my board designs to make sure they actually will work. Components should be here today for a test board anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cob1980 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 On 04/06/2018 at 12:52, cs2000 said: No worries mate, I like challenges! I have a "working" knowledge of electronics, but luckily have a friend based in Australia who designs things like new ECU's for GM cars, he's been assisting me turning my basic understanding into something that A, will work, and B will survive the harsh electrical environment in a vehicle. Plus he's been reviewing my board designs to make sure they actually will work. Components should be here today for a test board anyway Not what you know, who you know ey I have a basic knowledge of electronics for example I'd have been happy to have fitted some kind of separate remote control to power the windows shut but I was concerned that I'd mess up something else with the cars electrics. Cars are pretty complex these days and beyond my knowledge! Ill wait to see what you come up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Just got the boards from the manufacturer today. Building tonight, followed by some programming a a lot of testing over the next few days/weeks. Have another project im working on too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cob1980 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 On 14/06/2018 at 13:36, cs2000 said: Just got the boards from the manufacturer today. Building tonight, followed by some programming a a lot of testing over the next few days/weeks. Have another project im working on too... Wow, you've gone to town on this. What do you program it with? Or rather what are you programming? I see there's a relay output so how will this work will it need a live feed from somewhere putting in? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Haha thanks, if its gonna work, I want to do it right! The brains of it will be an Arduino pro mini. The language is understandable and it allows me to do some other cool tricks with it too ;) There is already a 12v live feed in the door anyway, so yes you'll tap off of that. The rest, il have to save for now ;) Need to order a rev 2 of the PCB. Some components don't quite fit (blame this being my first board ive designed). I "made them fit" for prototyping which went well, no magic smoke came out and no explosions, so that's cool. Il order the next version when I can and try it in the car (once ive sorted the programming out!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cob1980 Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 On 18/06/2018 at 21:59, cs2000 said: Haha thanks, if its gonna work, I want to do it right! The brains of it will be an Arduino pro mini. The language is understandable and it allows me to do some other cool tricks with it too There is already a 12v live feed in the door anyway, so yes you'll tap off of that. The rest, il have to save for now Need to order a rev 2 of the PCB. Some components don't quite fit (blame this being my first board ive designed). I "made them fit" for prototyping which went well, no magic smoke came out and no explosions, so that's cool. Il order the next version when I can and try it in the car (once ive sorted the programming out!) Nice! Live feed will make installation a lot easier then. Sounds like good progress sofar - well done mate ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) Well, some bad and some good news. Window Project Abandoned For safety reasons, i am abandoning this project. The window switch itself actually controls the windows (its not just a dumb switch). It deals with knowing when they're at the top and bottom of their travel, as well as the anti pinch system. My module can indeed close the windows when the car is locked, but it can not do safely. The anti pinch system is bypassed and the motor runs for X seconds (however long i set) and obviously eventually is trying to push a window that is likely already closed, so i have abandoned the project. I dont feel like bypassing these two OEM features is necessary a good thing, and nor do i want to cause damage to people or their cars, god forbid someone/something gets stuck in a closing window and causes flesh damage or shatters the window. The Later model cars (rev up on wards i believe) can roll the windows up or down (cant remember) by pressing and then holding the lock/unlock button on the fob. Its also VERY annoying as US delivered vehicles can roll up the windows by inserting the key into lock barrel on the door and holding this locked for a couple of seconds. The UK card have the wiring for this, but the ECU doesn't have the necessary code in it (or maybe just not enabled) to activate the feature. If we had the same feature enabled, I could have built a very simple module that didn't have to deal with handing large amperage currents, but alas this isn't possible with our UK ECU's. I dont like abandoning projects and its something that ive put a LOT of time into developing and pulled favours with friends with knowledge in the automotive electrics arena, so im kinda bummed about it, but its just the way it is. The board all works (in terms of basic functionality) so that side is all good, it just doesn't operate how i want it to and i wouldnt be happy with people running it in their vehicles knowing what it could maybe do. That, and i now know more about what the switch does because in testing i blew mine up and had my drivers window stuck half down for 4 days whilst i ordered a replacement! Working on other Projects I am simultaneously working on 2 other projects for the Z. These are below. 1. Full VDC Disable - This will be a little module that you install underneath the ashtray area in the Z. It will connect in-line with the OEM Yaw sensor module and when activated (with the simple press of a button) fully disable both VDC and TSC. No, the little button under the dash doesn't do this, it just disabled TSC). The module will also "remember" if it has been pressed meaning that unless you de-activate it (with another button press) next time you start the car it will auto-disable VDC for you. 2. LED Reflectors - I have had a bash at this in the past, but i now have a custom designed PCB with 150 SMD LED's on it (like what Z-LED's in the US offers), and space for some amber LED's for side repeaters. The PCB is all designed, i just need to find time to get these ordered and one assembled. The pure issue here is time, its 150 White and 50 amber LED's per reflector, hand soldering 400 SMD LED's..... Plus i can no longer find a source for the aftermarket reflectors, so this could also be an issue longer term. Paying for fabrication of these is possible, but due to sheer volume of components the costs are pretty high, but if i can get a single set built as a proof of concept, then get 10 pre-orders, assembly in China would be the way to go. Bluetooth Mod 2.0??? lastly, i want some feedback. I spent quite a lot of time on the Bluetooth mod, but the sales were...less than stellar and it was a difficult one to shift. I am looking at the connector on the tape deck and trying to find a replacement so that the Bluetooth module install will literately mean removing your tape deck and plugging my module in its place. Anyone that was tempted by this mod in the past but didn't go for it, what were the reasons? For me, Bluetooth audio streaming on the OEM Bose was something i wanted for YEARS but there was nothing out there that did it cleanly until my product came along and i have several members running it that (as far as i know) are all very happy with it, so therefore I can only summarise that it was due to the rather difficult installation (if you're not very technical / familiar with taking the Z's centre console apart etc). but let me know what you think. Edited July 16, 2018 by cs2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyzak Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hi CS2000, just bought my first Z last week and i'm gutted that i didn't buy one years ago!! Just been catching up with your Bluetooth Mod, sounds awesome! Are you able to make on request or do you need a few orders to make it worth your while? If you can do the odd one then i would be very interested in the DIY version please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) Hey mate, il send you a PM as I have some other plans edit: for anyone interested. Kyzak will be my willing guinea pig for the 2.0 version of this mod. If all goes well with tests il make a new topic to sell them as they’re pretty radically different. Edited September 26, 2018 by cs2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 version 2.0...i'm intrigued!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteWiix Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 Like the work done here and definitely following this, my only problem is I'm not one to pull things apart to make changes as they never seem to go back the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PPod Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 (edited) Use my Bluetooth module everytime I'm in my z such a needed mod. Love mine. Thanks again cs2000 Edited September 27, 2018 by PPod 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 Hehe so v2.0 has piqued some interest! @PeteWiix this install is pretty damn easy, especially the new version. No soldering, no scotch locs, no bullet connectors, basicslly, if you can undo some screws, you can install this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikz2004 Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 I'm intrigued to hear more about this. As an aside, how does the standard HU compare with after market for sound quality if anyone's tried both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 @Rikz2004 il share some more details once I have the PCB’s in my hand and it’s all been tested aound quality is really subjective. Personally, I liked the Bose. I uograded to a pioneer car play unit purely because I wanted car play, but can’t say it gave me better sound quality. I got that when I swapped all the speakers to Vibe units instead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikz2004 Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 @cs2000 thanks for your reply! I'm very tempted to upgrade the speakers to the rainbow components I had in my e46 prior to this car, as it seems a lot of people have good results after upgrading the speakers. I just need to see if they'll fit! The bose is meant to sound pretty good and unless you have 4v preouts I can't imagine another HU would sound that much better but without hearing either I guess it's difficult to say (mines came with an aftermarket HU with 2/2.5v preouts). I guess whether this sounds better would partly come down to the Bluetooth dac in the kit you're building? Although I might be wrong on this! I look forward to hearing more once you're ready! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 The orignal version i have in my car, plays brilliantly, pairs without fail every time, and sounds epic...the Bose system itself isn't that bad, but having that ability to stream from my phone is a must for me.....i also have a media button paired with the phone, so i can skip tracks etc i use this one- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Satechi-Bluetooth-Button-iPhone-Samsung-Media/dp/B00RM75NL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538123010&sr=8-1&keywords=satechi+media+button but others are available. not sure i would change to a version 2...just interested to see the development Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 (edited) @Rikz2004 - Yeah as i said, people seem to bash the Bose/Clarion for some reason. It has its issues like the audio channel cutout issue, a tape deck (seriously Nissan, a tape deck in 2004...) and the relay on the sub amplifier going bad, but i never thought of it as a "bad" unit. Upgrade all the speakers (bar the sub, not worth the time, cost or effort), to a good brand and that will give you the biggest difference. That said, you are right that the specefic EQ settings in the Bluetooth module will have a small effect on quality. Its not "user customisable" (i have to use the factory programming software for the Bluetooth modules and built my own programming jig) but ive put some decent time into making it sound right for most people in terms of not too much bass, volume boost is about right etc etc The actual hardware also is important. This inst some "Won hung lo" brand Bluetooth module, its a top of the line chip from Qualcomm with Bluetooth 4.1 support, the same chip used in many decent quality bluetooth speakers on the market. Ive designed the supporting board to have a fully isolated power supply (so no power switching noise/whine) and as short as possible traces to minimise on any electrical noise. @Paul K - Glad you still like it mate V2 likely wont include any "new" features (it can, but not sure if its worth it), it will just be a MUCH simpler install as i think thats likely what put most people off. Id say out of the 15 or so that ended up selling, over half of the people had to come back to me with wiring questions. 2 i even installed myself (and one got blown up!) Il keep quiet for a bit as id like to get the actual hardware in my hands and tested before i rabbit on any further, but i see no reason why it wouldnt work, its not exactly complicated! Edited September 28, 2018 by cs2000 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteWiix Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 On 27/09/2018 at 13:47, cs2000 said: Hehe so v2.0 has piqued some interest! @PeteWiix this install is pretty damn easy, especially the new version. No soldering, no scotch locs, no bullet connectors, basicslly, if you can undo some screws, you can install this! @cs2000 like the easy option, can you link me to ordering and payment and I'm in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 Sounds good, il update you once I have something to share. My last batch of boards had one tiny error so I had to order some more, they're due any day now, once I have it tested and hopefully working with Kyzak then we should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted October 21, 2018 Author Share Posted October 21, 2018 (edited) One issue with ordering PCB’s from China, leadtimes! PCB version 1.0-1.3 were never actually “made” they were pure digital designs and basically verification of the size I needed along with multiple total relayouts of the board. Proof of concept essentially. 1.4 was the first board I ordered, this was via standard shipping. PCB version 1.4 was the first ‘delivered’ version and arrived a few weeks ago. I confirmed that the board was per my design, installed the voltage regulator and power indicator led aaaand, no led lit up, somehow the part in my PCB software was set up incorrectly so the + and - were swapped. Quick edit in Eagle and standard shipping reorder. 1.5 arrived Friday. I built this up and immediately checked the voltage, all my voltages were present in the correct areas so I completed the build with the Bluetooth module and tape deck connector (the led has been killed lol), all went well. However in testing the sound was... weird. Little did I know the versions of the Bluetooth chip without the onboard 12v regulator have a different pin out which just doesn’t work with the 3 wires in headphones! Grrrr I then spent around an hour sourcing a different voltage regulator and editing the PCB so it can take the 12v version of the module. New boards ordered Saturday with express shipping this time so I’m hoping this week! This all stems from the fact the for some reason the headubit itself is 12v, but the tape deck (which my module replaces entirely) is only fed with 9v and the Bluetooth module needs first 12 and it then chops this down to 3.3. Many voltages to consider. Were basically changing from 12v in the head unit, down to -> 9v to the tape deck, up to -> 12v on my board, down to-> 3.3v on the Bluetooth module, mad, but seems necessary. Anyway, I’m pretty sure that 1.6 should fix all my issues. The only unknown is the new voltage regulator as I haven’t worked with this part before, but it’s a good, known part so it should be good. Edited October 22, 2018 by cs2000 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hi all, quick update and we finally have good news! 1.6 arrived Friday, built over the weekend and "tested" on Monday, this all works. Its now in a post van on the way to @Kyzak to test the install. It all works on my bench, but the thing im not sure on is quite what the Bose unit will think when you unplug the tape deck and stick something else in there then press the tape button. It may completely freak out, it may just sit and wait for an input, kinda depends if theirs communication between the tape deck and the head unit (it will likely fail), however if its just passive then it should work. Fingers crossed for some updated soon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptor07GT Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 having had my 07 Z for a month I can honestly say yes, a tape deck is unforgivable in car this century (and I still have tapes from original times!) Interested in Bluetooth option for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cob1980 Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 On 16/07/2018 at 15:24, cs2000 said: Well, some bad and some good news. Window Project Abandoned For safety reasons, i am abandoning this project. The window switch itself actually controls the windows (its not just a dumb switch). It deals with knowing when they're at the top and bottom of their travel, as well as the anti pinch system. My module can indeed close the windows when the car is locked, but it can not do safely. The anti pinch system is bypassed and the motor runs for X seconds (however long i set) and obviously eventually is trying to push a window that is likely already closed, so i have abandoned the project. I dont feel like bypassing these two OEM features is necessary a good thing, and nor do i want to cause damage to people or their cars, god forbid someone/something gets stuck in a closing window and causes flesh damage or shatters the window. The Later model cars (rev up on wards i believe) can roll the windows up or down (cant remember) by pressing and then holding the lock/unlock button on the fob. Its also VERY annoying as US delivered vehicles can roll up the windows by inserting the key into lock barrel on the door and holding this locked for a couple of seconds. The UK card have the wiring for this, but the ECU doesn't have the necessary code in it (or maybe just not enabled) to activate the feature. If we had the same feature enabled, I could have built a very simple module that didn't have to deal with handing large amperage currents, but alas this isn't possible with our UK ECU's. I dont like abandoning projects and its something that ive put a LOT of time into developing and pulled favours with friends with knowledge in the automotive electrics arena, so im kinda bummed about it, but its just the way it is. The board all works (in terms of basic functionality) so that side is all good, it just doesn't operate how i want it to and i wouldnt be happy with people running it in their vehicles knowing what it could maybe do. That, and i now know more about what the switch does because in testing i blew mine up and had my drivers window stuck half down for 4 days whilst i ordered a replacement! Hello mate Firstly my apologies for responding to this MUCH sooner, I blame having a 1 month old daughter I've barely been on the forum at all. I wanted to thank you for the time you've spent on this, even if it wasn't the result we wanted. If anything at least I can take comfort that this is just not feasible. It would have been a really useful feature for me and I'm sure many others who squeeze their Z in to a single garage, or just forgetful people ha. It annoys me every single time!! It has left me wondering though about ECU's. I am looking to remap mine next year. I'm a little gutted that I can't have multiple maps put on mine. I wonder if a US ECU can be used for multi maps, and have this feature, and not loose anything else such as PATS. Hmm..... Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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