evilscorp Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Going to drop the 350z diff at some point and check measurements to see if the angles/sizes are correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted September 14, 2018 Author Share Posted September 14, 2018 So this is going in this Well the important bits are. Diff,driveshafts,wheel bearings and maybe the handbrake setup as the 200sx uses a cable on caliper design. (no internal drums) Fortunately the 350z subframe looks like its from a newer car or hasn't seen much salt as all the bolts are good and should save me a bit of cash if I can use them on the 200sx subframe. The shocks look in half decent nick if anyone wants them? (one is minus the welded nut, but you can just fit a nut to the normal bolt anyway like most aftermarket shocks.) I may keep some of the arms as spares but if anyone needs them let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 So 350z wheel bearing bolts are 5mm wider spaced apart that s14 items so they won't be getting used =( guess they are now spare for the Z. But new s14 items aren't expensive so I will just have to order some and push out the 5 lug wheel axle from the old ones. This makes the 350z rear handbrake conversion more difficult as the plate holes wont line up..... Think I will leave this for a very distant future project and stick the old system back on for now. Now that Ive finished messing about with dismantling things I don't need I will hopefully drop the fuel tank tomorrow when I get up and set about ordering new braided fuel lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Only just caught up with this - good work mate, it's coming along Do keep us updated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 Kinda became sidetracked today as I was fed up struggling to find the correct heater controls in the chrysler 300c daily so ended up soldering in some new LED's and ate up most of my morning and I have work this afternoon =( So back to the koukicuda, Took the heat shield off the tank. . . . ok the first clip disintegrated and I ended up just pulling the rest off violently. The plastic fuel filler neck guard didn't help the corrosion resistance much. The moment I touched it the thing started to fall apart and would have been leaking fuel soon I imagine. Also found more rust so poked a hole. New filler neck needed as the bracket on the chassis is dead and so is the metal neck, the plastic part looks ok but these tanks are known to leak so I may have to coat it in something (some people use truck bed liner?) These fuel lines have been disconnected but I reconnected them as there is still a bit of fuel in the tank and I don't want to leave the garage with an open source of fuel, hopefully tomorrow for dropping..... removing the old tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 So the fuel tank in these is kinda big, just a couple more things to check then the engine and trans is coming out.Straps are dead.Need to wire wheel this all to see if its going to need patches welded here also.old brake and fuel lines are going to be replaced with braided and -6AN hose.Hopefully I can weld a new bracket to this filler neck.last time anything auto will be near the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Two 14mm nuts are all that seem to hold the engine to the mounts so they are off, now I just need to find a good place to bolt my engine leveler... nothing on the front looks good, only stuff on the side Still need to undo the gearbox mount but waiting until I know where to lift from/ slings arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 Engine out. Ended up using a mix of sling and chains on bolts. Plan to tidy this up and remove some unused pipes and weld some holes shut in the firewall. So my first mistake of quite an easy job (surprisingly) was not to undo the bottom two gearbox bolts. Back up again and jack under the box as doing this myself was a bit scary as this sh#' is heavy. Then I realized its not like roadkill american V8's the dam torque converter still has lots of oil in it and is bolted to the flywheel, which need to be accessed through an inspection hatch on the bottom of the block (hopefully). Getting the box off took a lot of wriggling. But now I can swap to the Apex exhaust 3" elbow easier and a few other bits and bobs (remove AC pump,) Glad I have the hoist as it was a pain to drain the fuel tank but used a sling to tilt it and drain from the filler pipe. (nearly empty so the fuel pump will be swapped soon.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Always fun pulling engines out on your own, as you say HEAVY Good thing about the 350 you don't have to lift it as high just take the front off. Keep up the good work mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 Turbo shaft has 1-2mm of play so should be fine for a few more miles, Oil return line will need changed, if I cant clean the pipe up it will be swapped for some braided hose. Sadly the original exhaust stud is too long to fit the 3" apex turbo elbow so it will need shortened and then the elbow might need some bashing or grinding to fit the 350z gearbox, since its a lot larger. Removed the last few items from the wheel wells before the cutting and welding work begins. To remove the steering and front subframe I think I just have to undo a clamp beside the red paint pen mark (not sure), then four big bolts under the subframe. Then I should be able to remove the lot for a clean and new steering rack bushes and maybe some offset spacers and other bits =) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 steering rack and subframe removed along with some radiator brackets and other stuff. main chassis rails are in good condition on the inside, not so good on the outside, have yet to look underneath =/ Cleaned them up and some of the suspension turrets then coated with zinc primer to stop them rusting while I cut out the death and weld in fresh metal. Quite boring but these pictures help understand where stuff goes so bare with me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 Some upside down welding... still needing more practice but I have plenty to learn on Sadly my daily driver 300C decided to seize both front brakes on a trip to Manchester so having to try rebuilding the calipers. Think my iphone camera is on the way out =( None of the videos I seen online had this problem. Both pistons came out fine with the compressed air but neither boot wanted to simply be pulled out! I think they must have melted onto the caliper as nothing could get them off and they just ripped with pliers. Ended up having to scrape and burn them out, hopefully they work as new calipers are nearly £300 for a car I don't love and want rid of (once the koukicuda is ready). As clean as I could get, the inner seal crevice is rubber free and they fortunately came out fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRF4N Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 You’re doing all this to sell it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 The CHRYSLER 300C is just getting new front brakes and a refresh of the calipers then selling when the NISSAN 200sx rust bucket is rebuilt and becomes my daily =p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRF4N Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Ah ok.... missed that sentence lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 having to waste more time on the chrysler as I realized the dust boots need to be pressed into the brake caliper so now I need to make a tool to do this (one less cheap hole saw no doubt.) meanwhile I got some parts back from the powder coaters... someones favourite colour on the forum, probably end up covering them in waxoil as well for extra protection.but they seem hole free, hopefully the rust should remain dormant under it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 Started making replacement panel for my tubs to begin then.... I didn't want to do a half ass job so thought I better see whats inside the frame rail. Lots of spot welds hold this bit in place. Huuummmm... Need to treat this stuff and hopefully I can save the U section with just grinding, the brackets inside look ok. Need to remove the rest tomorrow and start grinding and copying where to put the spot welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 Bought some parts and did a tiny bit of work. removed the torque converter then got stuck with the flywheel bolts as I need to make a flywheel stopper. Its far away so you can't see my poor welds. I don't have a fancy metal bender and my metal work skill's are lacking, but I get there. I know it doesn't line up but its getting tubed so F@* it. Needed the template to line the spot welds up with the brackets. And right at this point I ran out of zinc weld through primer and the missus was on her way home so play ended until tomorrow. Can't afford watanabe's and there were only 3 rota rkr's left anywhere in the size I wanted go I bought these... could have bought these many many times over compared with the vossen works on the Z All new hubs, been waiting for the driftworks black friday sale for a long time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 Not nice to look at but fortunately I won't have to lol. Hopefully some seam sealer then paint then wax oil should protect it from rusting again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Flywheel lock turned up, but it's not quite right for this engine but mehhh, done the job I was going to fit the orc carbon clutch and flywheel but I figured I better wait for some new bolts? Got back to the wheel tub... takes ages to do one panel =(. Got as far as cutting the curve to a rough shape, still needs some fine tuning before I tack it up, Probably going to stitch weld the inner and outer plate above then seam sealer to stop any crap getting in between the two panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 It takes lots of hours to have nothing much to show. But only seconds to buy sh#t, I don't need right now.... The seam sealer and gun I was using wasn't fun, took a lot of effort to squeeze the stuff out, not a neat job but it wont be seen and its not a show car. Once it dries overnight I will stick another layer of primer over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 That's coming along mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sargara Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Nice work so far, looking forward to seeing the end result 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 Busy time of year so only getting a half hour here and there to work on the car. Subframe bushes.... trying a different method of attack than burning which sucked on the 350z. Fortunately rust doesn't hold rubber well and this is a lot older and the oem bushes aren't great. Hopefully the metal sleeve can be punched out with a chisel after some initial cuts are made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRF4N Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 Will that be your colour scheme? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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