evilscorp Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 I didn’t bother with the rear diffuser or the full rear fibreglass arches and haggled a bit with their eBay prices so it was similar to their online shop. The free motorbike lights they sent were a bonus but not sure if I will buy my own as they look cheap. Its definitely a different looking kit from the usual jap stuff. I think some retro jdm wheels would set it off but as you say looking at £1.5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cimanu Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 2 hours ago, evilscorp said: Yeah, such a shame, UK salty roads that do it and poor under coating I think. Half of me wants to restore it.... but the other half with the silly hat on usually wins. Definitely keep the silly hat on! Those kits are cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 I can't see Getting ready to remove the bumper and fit the intercooler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 So someone spent a little time and money doing a decent respray on turd bodywork luckily the wings are getting binned for the boss ones. Chassis looks like should be good. Bye bye baby intercooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Need to keep these but the rest will be replaced, how do you remove those ball joints? Is it just a circlip that holds them in? Will need to remove them so I can have them shot blasted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Dash out Now hopefully These are connectors and I can just unclip them to pull the harness through the wing and then relocate the fuse box under the passenger dash where the airbag should go. Then a bit of a wire tuck for the engine and some cable deleting for the old headlight washers and bits. I am also thinking about deleting the abs as I will be installing a new 350z brake master and booster courtesy of PaulT, I didn't like the way the abs cut in with me on track in the 350z and removal of it will free up space in the bay, weight reduction and let me run a bias valve to set the 350z brembos up correctly with the oem rear brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 So on my continued effort to rip the car apart for welding; loom messing, stupid massive connector wont go over the white plastic surround of the fuse box side. Trying to pull it through the wheel arch so I can relocate the engine base fuse box to where the passenger airbag was. Glad I labeled most of this mess. Next up is trying to find how to mount the clutch pedal and master cylinder from a 350z. Need to cut the brake pedal to give room for the new clutch pedal. I will also need to remove the switches from the 350z clutch as they hit the steering column (think they are only for starting the 350z so you don't lurtch the car forward?). Hopefully they can align with the oem position but I will need to do some measuring, Lastly I was going to swap the brake master and booster from a 350z but it might be too powerful if I remove abs so I may reuse the 200sx brake booster, hopefully the 350z master can bolt up to it. I assume you just remove the fork from the end to pull the rod through the brake booster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 this will get a lick of paint, Loom out ready for cuttung and extending. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 Windscreen out, tried everything but the sealant used was super tough, had numerous metal wires snap trying that method, the stupid pick tool you pull wasn't much better, even my air scraper wasn't brilliant until i had the thing out to remove the excess.Good old brute force laying on my back kicking the fecker out was the best way but it did leave a few shards in and out the car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humpy Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Bloody can't believe I missed this thread. That 1st pic looks immense. Will be following and wishing you all the best with the awesome project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cimanu Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Still excited this is ongoing Glad you've kept with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted April 18, 2018 Author Share Posted April 18, 2018 (edited) todays update, teaching my self to weld again. not bad for first attempt in 14years. ok I lied, took me this mess to figure out the correct settings to use on 0.8mm steel, also need to switch my auto darkening helmet down one as my eye is a tad itchy (arc eye). But the main thing is good penetration, not much splatter, heat warping can be reduced with a copper or alu plate hopefully. My air nibbler was brilliant for cutting through the steel too so I should start making patches and stuff soon. Going to order a dimple die 3/4" for the a pillar roll cage buttrages or whatever they are called. Edited April 18, 2018 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 (edited) So, cut my template out of cardboard and bashed part of the floor flat, but think i may need to attach the plate under the floor, rather that place it on top, too tricky to bend to shape and I dont want to try and butt weld yet. Edited April 23, 2018 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 Grinding off the spot welds and underseal from the sill join so I can weld in a u shaped metal piece to strengthen the sill for future jacking points. Cutting out a patch of rust to see whats behind! Hopefully good metal? nope. Scraped and wire brushed as much of the rust off so I can treat it then weld in some repair patches. Plenty more of this will happen =( 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 (edited) Welder wasn't happy about attaching this, so I had to do the million spot weld method. Also think I should have used my thicker steel for this part but figured if something was to try and burst through it has two layers to go through. Still might put another patch on top for keeping my mind at ease. Need to grind off the slugs and fill any bits I missed but its the missus 30th so I should probably spend some time with her lol. Edited May 9, 2018 by evilscorp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted May 16, 2018 Author Share Posted May 16, 2018 Parts, Parts, Parts!!! Thanks Torqen, you know how much I like keeping you on your toes with specialty items =) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Thanks for your new order Gary, pleasure to help, you know we love a challenge, there's no part we can't source Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Ebay also throws a few wonders your way! Would have cost 3x as much new (without shipping) and has barely been used, it may be a tad over kill though but might as well try a twin carbon clutch once. Came out an s15 so has a thicker flywheel and pilot bushing ideal for my 350z gearbox swap. Last of the grinding around the windscreen, some rust remover applied then a coat of primer on sunday. This is where the windscreen crack started so i thought it may have been the three different panels moving (dead spot welds maybe?) so I stuck a few tack welds to hold them together, IF ANYONE THINKS THIS IS A BAD IDEA FOR CRASH SAFETY OR OTHER WISE PLEASE TELL ME! (I assume you want the passenger cell the strongest part so I may even add a few more to these areas.) most dangerous tool ever. (however it will do wonders on the underseal.) next big holes, template made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 chop shop scotland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 More rust. Dodgey dan work, patch over rust, basically going to have to cut the whole rear passenger boot pocket out and redo. Not looking forward to fabbing metal up for that area ^^ more bits need cutting out but thought I would primer it so it doesn't get any worse. MY first UGADUGA! Wish i had one of these in my life a long time ago! abs and aircon gone(aircon may come back if I can find a new radiator for it otherwise bye bye.) Big hole, same happening to otherside and wheel tubs will replace. The end is so long away I don't even think I can see it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Slowly getting there, had to fix a sh~t box fiat headgasket which took a few days but the rust is the main slow down. 8V yuk. Think I may buy a rotisserie as I can't weld very well upside down. The old diff cooler has been removed as its most likely fuokd, Saves a decent bit of weight, the diff magnetic plug was full of metal so hopefully its ok. Front propshaft came off easy, the rear is a pig, going to have to cut the nuts off as you cant get a ring spanner over them (too close to diff flange) and the crows foot spanners i bought specifically for this can't shift them without rounding them either. (new bolts will be shorter so I don't have this problem again). Jacking off the diff was easy but there weren't many places to put jack stands that wouldn't crumple, the rear chassis legs seemed a good spot until i couldn't get the hubs off the rusty arms in situ, then it became a pain to try and slide the whole rear subframe out the side on some wood. The passenger driveshaft looks damaged from previous removal or something, it dropped out compared to the other which needed split with a blunt chisel tapping all around. I think this lot is scrap apart from the 5 stud hub. where I gave up today. Plan to strip and shot blast anything that is getting reused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Showing the ol' girl the love, props dude!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 12 minutes ago, davey_83 said: Showing the ol' girl the love, props dude!! More like domestic abuse, had to hacksaw off one stuck chassis bolt, just hope I can weld something onto it and remove it/ or I may just cut the whole section out and see how badly rusted the captive nut is 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRF4N Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 At this rate you would’ve been quicker building a car using scrap metal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 (edited) I hate youtube.... now I have found out you can buy an adapter to fit a 350z diff and driveshafts to the 200sx.... Adds to the whole interchangeable theme I am trying to go for. Edited August 30, 2018 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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