Redsky Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 So long story short the previous owner seems to have messed me about. Showed me receipts for rust proofing and wax oil which is why i felt comfortable buying my 350 even though it had been near the sea for a few months. The arches were clean as was all of the paint, pretty much any part I could see of the car without a proper lift. When I finally got under the car at Nissan I saw what the pictures show, a pretty horrific show of rust. So this is how it started and ive decided to try and save the car from rotting out, sorted the brakes and ball joints so far. Next is the W brace and the components for that since that is just made entirely of rust and snapped. If anyone has any advice or tips or tricks I would be immensely grateful and feel free to call me a mug for managing to buy a zed that's pretty much made of rust :/. Also if anyone knows any good body shops or rust specialists around Bedfordshire I would really like their details if you could. Thanks to anyone and everyone in advance for any help or advice you can give. Fair warning about the pictures they are pretty grisly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) W brace seems to be prone to rust. Aftermarket replacements are better and not that expensive. Edited June 27, 2017 by Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Yeah that seems to be the general consensus that the W brace is one of the first parts to rot away. Unfortunately my local garage already ordered the parts for me (with a quick price check by myself to make sure it was reasonable). I was under the impression that the after market ones were supplementary rather than an outright replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chubby Ninja Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 No they completely replace the w brace. Tarmac sells the summit racing ones I think they are called Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldel Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 I *think* the replacement ones can hang a little lower than the W brace - if you have a lowered car/thinking lowering worth considering that 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jords Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 There's a make called ultra racing that a lot of people use. They do replacement braces fior the w brace, middle small brace and large front brace. I've looked at the pictures, sure there is some rust but it's far from a rot box. Looking at them I'd say it needs a proper undersealing job because it's never had one. I don't see anything terminal under there. Maybe the invoices you have seen is for cavity waxoyl injection which is where they spray it into the inner arches etc.. Either way don't be too disheartened by the situation a couple hundred quid should see you right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chubby Ninja Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Yeah that's the ones! I got the name wrong lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 I think if they do hang lower I would have to go OEM anyway, barely clear the speed bumps where I live at stock height anyway. Jords I think that might be exactly what he had done, thanks for the comment Ill also keep in mind the other braces if i need to get those sorted. So far Ive had the U bends on my calipers sorted luckily nothing else needed changing on my brake system, Although my pedal is now a lot less sensitive, way more travel before any braking happens im guessing maybe low fluid or trapped air? The parts for the brace should show up tomorrow and ill get them on. I had a leaking balljoint on my front right but thats been sealed and I think im leaking gearbox oil so ill need to get that sealed or at the very least my oil topped up. I think I just assumed the worst when nissan told me to fix everything it would be £3500 in just labour, no parts included. Thanks for all the comments helped me calm down a bit, turns out im already really attached to my zed, didnt want to see it die a horrible rusty death. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 I think a lot of that will clean up with some hard work, the box section at the top needs some attention as does the W brace. Rust proofing tends to be more panels than the support bars. It is a bit of work/investment needed though, you could do like I did, strip it all out clean it up and then paint it Lot of work but it will sort the rust and looks good for the MOT inspector Good luck 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willsy1980 Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 ^ Makes me want a bag of Skittles Love it !! I'd have been too OCD and colour coded it Body one colour, supports/suspension another and drive train etc the third colour 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 ^ Makes me want a bag of Skittles Love it !! I'd have been too OCD and colour coded it Body one colour, supports/suspension another and drive train etc the third colour Love the skittles comment It is colour coded - Red Yellow Green and Black, the car was Green and Black the other "coding" was based on "What colour shall I paint thins?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jords Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Glad I could be of some help.. I would expect some rust under most older zeds some of them are 14 years old now. Get a wire wheel and some good underseal and get to work haha. Alternatively get it booked in somewhere to have them do it. I discussed having mine undersealed in the future when I was at atkins nissan specialists a month or 2 ago. They are far from a side street garage but said a few hundred quid would get it really well cleaned up and then properly undersealed. Just remember that once it's been done properly it's common practice to check it every year but it would be well worth it. Any parts that can be removed and cleaned up I would do yourself and spray with some black 'stone chip' paint firstly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Although rusty I think that looks pretty standard for most of our cars? I posted up pics of mine awhile back and people shrugged and said it was fine, fix the bits that need fixing thats all. Do any of the replacement w braces contain the points to mount the rear plastic shields that cover that ARB bush area? I didn't really see any last time i stared at a photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 Yeah I think I will put a bit of elbow grease in myself and get it cleaned up, some parts im planning to replace when I can afford, upgrade the anti roll bars I think is fairly far up the list. Think Im near needed some new discs as well so ill find something nice to put on. The colours on that are amazing it looks fantastic, that must have taken a while and a steady hand for sure. One question i do have is what did you use to jack yours up? Ive got a little low profile jack but im just a touch paranoid about where to jack it up and put the stands under it. Dont want to cause my car any harm to the seams or the sills. Any particular types of paint would be better? Or just spray it with a dedicated underseal then paint, after removing the rust i mean. What ive learnt so far is that I quite like aluminium parts and galavanised bodywork xD. I will try to get a picture later but i think ive got some paint bubbling on one of my arches. Im guessing thats a straight to a mechanic to get rid of it situation. I would guess if its bubbling paint its penetrated the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 There is a guide on here for jacking points do a quick search. That one I did on axel stands (I have high ones) now I have a ramp (I'm spoilt) You can use the sill jacking points for stands just be careful, also always sensible to have a safety when on stands, it can be the wheel on it's side under the sill downside it you damage the wheel if it falls but better that than you! other than that I used BIG wooden blocks so should it fall you could still get out. SAFETY FIRST I did all under mine as part of a complete refurb took 11 months but that included new engine, SC, custom interior and a full respray so ........ Paint - mine was all sandblasted primer and then sprayed using commercial (lorry) paint I would use under-seal or rust proof for a DIY job then you only need wire brush it all down first. Also stone chip is good but put rust stop on first Just do it a bit at a time or it can be overwhelming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 Yeah that seems sensible ive got a big pile of bricks and slate in the back garden so im sure i can leave that under the wheels when shes up in the air. Going to feel like shes brand new though. New W brace that isnt snapped in half and two new rear tyres. Should be a good bit of fun once its all together. The only restriction ive got at the moment is the 350 is my car its my daily, so i cant leave it in a state where i cant drive it away xD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry40 Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) The best rust treatment I have found is Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber... http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate-80 I purchased a 2004 350Z two years ago come this October, admittedly it was immaculate low mileage ( 26K ) and to be fair there wasn't really any rust so to speak of other than surface on the W brace. I removed and wire brushed the brace and then applied 2 coats of the Hydrate 80 which converts the rust to a black protective barrier which I then painted with Smoothrite black, I also removed all the wheels and painted Hydrate 80 under the arches before again painting, I know some people don't like Smoothrite as a top coat but I do very few miles and never have any issues with it chipping, in fact I tend to clean and re-apply the top coat every 3 years or so on my classics ( TR4 & A35 Van ) and they are well protected. Admittedly if I was doing high mileage and all weathers I might be tempted to apply a more flexible top coat for added protection and again would look at Bilt Hamber for that as well. Edited June 30, 2017 by Gerry40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Yeah the issue ive got is ill be averaging about 10-12K a year with my 350. But i will keep that in mind. Maybe use that to clear the rust then place something a bit sturdier over the top of it perhaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Just had my new brace fitted, the old one was just pure rust, it was practically in 3 pieces maybe 3 or 4 mm of rust on one side holding it together. With the new W brace The feel and poise of the car feels incredible, i thought it felt great before (Went from an astra to be fair) but now it feels in a different league. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 So started hearing a rattling from my back end going over speed bumps. Was worried I had lost part of my exhaust hangars or something similar, turns out to be a piece of aluminium from the back end just above the exhaust back box (maybe a heatshield or a spashguard?) But pretty much it looks like the bolts rusted and then started eating into the metal around the holes so eventually the left hand side gave out and was flapping about. Managed to take it off and now ive got to figure out where to get a new one or if its even worth putting it back on. Pictures to follow for anyone who knows what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeceybeaney Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Exhaust heat shield to keep all your groceries in the boot cool took mine off the first week I owned my zed, as it vibrated and drove me crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsky Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 Did you replace it or just kept it off? Just curious if its necessary, getting it off was easy but i sheared the end of one of the bolts so i think ive got to go through the boot or somewhere to get to the tops of the bolts to replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willsy1980 Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 You could easily repair that, 2 aluminium strips each side 1 inner 1 outer drill through and rivet on to the heat shield, re-drill the mount holes and refit. Far cheaper than replacement, but you could take option 3 and just bin it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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