GodISmE Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 (edited) It looks like I'm boiling the Motul fluid (tried both 600 and 660) and therefore losing brake pressure after the brakes get really hot. Any better alternatives which are less likely to boil or at least not as fast as Motul?! PS. I already have air brake ducts. Edited May 30, 2017 by GodISmE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Did you try Castrol SRF that is fancy brake oil Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aashenfox Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Laughing my tits off at 'fancy brake oil', but yeh, I suppose it is! Snjur, you're a legend mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Well I recently bought Motul 660 and than lad told me we have as well fancy Castrol SRF almost double of price than Motul. So I remembered this "fancy" costly Castrol Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Castrol SRF is the choice of the informed, but as Snjur says, expensive, however less fluid changes, so cost effective and it does what it says on the tin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 I searched the net and actually this one came up as having the highest boiling temps: Torque RT700. Any experience with it? Also, I might just throw it in here as it's a related question: which pad (ds2500 or ds3000) would generate more heat and therefore boil the fluid quicker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 http://www.torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html http://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds3000/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 It's not about heat resistance of the pad and its mu throughout the heat range. It's about which pad would generate more heat and potentially overheat the bloody Brembos with its small rotors! It's tricky to judge, because in theory the harder pad should absorb less heat (so should not heat the calipers up that much) but it has a higher mu, therefore can generate higher temps. So, which one? PS. I was told that the wet boiling points are more important than dry as even fresh fluid would have some moisture in it. True? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Which SRF is it: the grey one or the yellow one (React)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aashenfox Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Identical product, the updated packaging is the Gold 'React' product, I'd be trying to get one of those simply due to the hygroscopic nature of DOT 3, 4 and 5.1, the newer the product the better, though of course I'm not trying to say that a sealed bottle lets moisture in, the difference would be less than negligible (pocket of air trapped at the top of the bottle under the cap will contain 'some' moisture), the OCD in me says buy the newer bottle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) I found one bottle (Gold) in a local shop but the guy says it's from August 2015! Probably not a good idea to buy it? Or will it be ok? Edited May 31, 2017 by GodISmE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aashenfox Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 I reckon it'll be ok, realistically. Would I personally buy it...dunno, would depend how bored I was to find a newer one. Is there a real scientific reason not to buy a bottle from 2015, probably not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Can you upload some photo's of the cooling ducts for the brakes ? What pads have you used on track ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) Ds2500 front, ds performance rear. Edited May 31, 2017 by GodISmE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Ds2500 front, ds performance rear. https://flic.kr/p/U3gDuA Cool, I presume that is directing air towards the centre of the disc ? I really didn't like the DS2500 on the road at least, I had fade with those from spirited driving. Same fluid as I use now, TYP200. I'm currently on CL RC5+ (will probably try RC6 next) , I really need to do ducting as well as I managed to start cooking the brake fluid last time I went out on track. The reason in my case I believe this happened is that I created hotspots on the front discs, so I think the disc gets hotter quicker and then you're into the cycle of loads of heat in that area. (time to skim them, put ducting in for me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavrik Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 I use DOT 5.1 Comma synthetic fluid with DS2500 compound pads with Evora dimpled/grooved discs... No fade/boiling on track for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 No fade/boiling on track for me... Your not trying hard enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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