Rays TE37 offsets...

[Guest]

Hi all =)

 

I've purchased some 18" TE37s, 8.5" front, 9.5" rear. I'm coming close to fitting them so am looking at spacers. The Rays site only has 8.5 width at 40 offset listed, but I've measured my 8.5s at 33mm offset. The 9.5s which aren't listed are 39mm (I'm guessing 40 factoring margin of error).

 

Does anybody have a clue what factory offsets the 8.5s came in other than 40? =) I don't want to make an assumption and get spacers wrong =)

[Snjur]

Which Rays forged or that from track model. If I recall correct it was 8.5 & 9 and et 30/33

 

Just found this online so hope it helps

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/350z-wheel-identification-guide.html

 

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Edited May 29, 2017 by Snjur

[Guest]

Hi Snjur, these are aftermarket Rays Volks TE37 wheels, don't think they fall under the OEM US sizes =)

 

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[Aashenfox]

Here ya go mate.

 

http://www.upgrademo...wheels/te37.htm

 

It's possible this table is not complete, but in general this site is a good source of wheel info.

 

Your front seems a bit off, maybe someone shaved it? Anyway, if it is 30, or even 33, you'll want 15 to 20mm for the front, depending how much poke you want. Since those fronts are convex, I'm gonna assume you won't be poking, so 15mm spacer for the front.

 

For the back, you'll want 20 to 25mm, probably 20mm. In both cases, 15mm front and 20mm rear, you'll be at about the same stance as someone like myself with stockers and 20/25 spacers, it's pretty flush, are you low?

Edited May 29, 2017 by Aashenfox

[Guest]

Thanks Aashenfox =) I'm not yet lowered, it will happen at some point but it's not my current priority and probably won't be for a few months. I know some run 25/30, which for me at these offsets would be about 20/20. Is this workable? Does it cause any problems? Or am I better sticking with 15/15 for a rough equivalent to 20/25? Hope that makes sense 😄

 

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[Aashenfox]

I think 20 on the front will poke notably more than the rear with a 20, which is fine, but not the best visually. It would be better to err on the side of the rear being wider by about 10mm. Here're some figures and math for you to help you decide.

 

The first thing to get your head around is the effective offsets of the stockers. So, without further ado...

 

Stock, no spacers: 8.0+30 front and 8.5+33 rear.

 

So, with 20/25 it's like a +10 on the front, and a +8 on the rear. If you fit 25/30 spacers, naturally, 5mm less offset again, so +5 and +3 F and R respectively.

 

The best fitment for our cars to get the best balance of aggression and look is 9.5+22 and 10.5+22 but that also requires a touch of lowering not to look too monster truck-ish.

 

So, 9.5+22 and 10.5+22 has 2mm more poke at the front and 6mm more poke at the rear, compared to stock wheels 25/30 spacers.

 

So at your sizes, 8.5+30 (let's assume?), with a 20mm spacer, you are at an effective 8.5+10, which is almost identical in fitment to 9.5+22 (it actually pokes just 1 more mm), BUT the back with a 20mm spacer (effective +20) will be a BIG amount more under the fender, 11mm LESS poke than a 10.5 22, so in actual fact, if you want the equivalent 10.5+22 fitment, you'll need a 30mm spacer for your rear Volks.

 

Having said all that, I say again, that without a bit of lowering, 20mm front and 30mm rear will be really quite aggressive. If I was you I'd probably buy 20mm and 25mm (given that you may have a little more front offset than 30, if you're measurements are right, and it's more like +33). Then later on when you get lowered a little, you can sell the 25s and get 30s, or sell the 20s, move the 25s to the front and get 30 or 35 for the rear depending how it looks to your eye.

Edited May 30, 2017 by Aashenfox

[Snjur]

Well Aashenfox when you are putting all down like that bit of a advice. I have JR3 which are copy of TE37'S and they are 9x18 ET15 front and 10x18ET25 but with 15mm spacer on rear. Without spacer on rear will front and rear be in line?

 

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[Aashenfox]

No worries mate, I love all this.

 

Your 9+15 will poke 1mm MORE than 9.5+22, and 3mm MORE than stock with a 25mm spacer

Your 10+25 will RECESS by 9mm compared to a 10.5+22, and RECESS by 3mm compared to a stock rear with a 30mm spacer.

 

The stock offset difference (and therefore the official 'stagger') of the stock wheels is 3mm wider track (per side) at the rear (so 6mm wider track total). Without spacers, your 9+15 and 10+25 will be exactly that, 3mm wider track per side at the rear. Therefore, you don't NEED a spacer at all to maintain the stagger that Nissan intended. However, since the difference in the width of the actual fenders front to rear is about 11mm, if you maintain Nissan stagger, the rears will look less aggressive than the fronts. Therefore, if you want to match the fit exactly of the classic 9.5+22/10.5+22 setup, you should run a 10mm spacer on the rear with no spacer on the front. You will then be exactly 1mm wider both front and rear compared to 9.5+22/10.5+22 which is a 'balanced' look, neither wheel appears to poke more than the other.

 

Hope it helps!!

Edited May 30, 2017 by Aashenfox

[Snjur]

Thanks mate awesome reply

 

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[Guest]

Hey Aashenfox, thanks for the response =)

 

So I have remeasured, and I think 30 at front and 40 at rear for offsets unless I am mistaken. With this being the case, I take it 20 & 30 spacers would be the best solution?

[Aashenfox]

That's what I reckon, should be a well balanced setup.

[Guest]

That's what I reckon, should be a well balanced setup.

Thanks very much dude, your advice is greatly appreciated =)

 

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[Aashenfox]

Most welcome bro.