mr v6 Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hi all, Following on from this topic last year: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/111333-wont-engage-gear-odd-clutch-pedal/ I had a failed CSC & it was replaced with a genuine Nissan part, all works fine. From cold you have full pressure on the pedal all the way to the floor. I did notice straight away (as you do in the hotter weather) that the pressure isn't as much, instead I seem to lose a bit of pressure for about 1" of travel. To explain it as best as I can, the firm travel I have from cold seems to get lost when hot & the first part of pressing the pedal feels like nothing apart from tension on a spring on the pedal somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 Today for the first time since having the new CSC installed 9 months (4500 miles) ago, the pedal stuck part way down. I left it & could still change gears as normal, but it seemed hydraulic pressure pedal travel as maybe an inch. It's got me worried that it may be failing so early. How is the pedal in the hot on everyone elses Z? Do you get this, or do you have full pedal travel & pressure all the way from the top to the bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Should have fitted an after market uprated CSC However, even an OEM should not have "failed" already. Best to take it to a specialist for a proper bleed as sounds like some air may still be trapped in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 Hopefully it's just air, but do you have any links for an uprated one Alex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Anyone? For an 05 DE? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 If it is an 05 DE that you have, then it will not have a CSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Sorry for the mix up, I was reading other things. It's the external slave on the outside of the box . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 You can stick with genuine Nissan at around £80.00 or aftermarket at circa £45.00. I personally would go with genuine Nissan. When I do the CSC delete, I always fit a genuine Nissan DE slave cyl. However I would firstly eliminate air in the system before splashing the cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Thanks Alex. I may just go for the change to rule it out. Would this been seen as a superior part to the Nissan one: https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/clutch-and-drivetrain/350z-stoptech-premium-clutch-slave-cylinder.html or https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/ancillaries/1673-350z-de-05-07-stoptech-premium-clutch-slave-cylinder-13842019.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 As I have already said, I personally prefer the OEM over after market, especially when you have an issue and this exercise appears to be a process of elimination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Thanks for the input Alex. As a matter of course, I've ordered a bottle of Motul RBF 660 & a Stoptech slave. I'll try the bleed with new fluid first. I'm going to use the bleeding method by blocking the cylinder as that seems to yield good results. If I start to get a mushy pedal from then on in, I'll swap the cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 I bled the system today using normal brake fluid. I went through exactly 300ml. Iwas told by a 'tech' (word used very loosely at work) to get a pipe with a small slit in it, that way it allows fluid out & no air in.. This didn't work, so had my dad come over & we did it the normal 2 man way. After a short time of dad having to pull the pedal up with his foot etc, we had a good pedal (I mean the normal pedal) after about 20 mins. I still have the same amount of pedal play as before. I'm starting to think it could be the master cylinder, purely because every now & again if I press the pedal I feel a little of the play go, then it comes back, plus the master is making a squeaking / creaking noise when the pedal is pressed. I also noticed the crappy Nissan insulation that's around the hydraulic pipe, it's a poor attempt at heat diversion. I ordered a 2" wide length of exhaust manifold wrap from ebay. I got rid of the standard stuff & wrapped the heat wrap around the braided line using cable ties every inch or so, just in case the fluid was boiling up, the standard heat wrap was all open bar a couple of cable ties in the wrong places. Time will tell I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Can I just ask, if this problem continues, the next stop would be the master cylinder. Torqen shows a rebuild kit for the DE for just £27.62. Has anyone any experience fitting this kit & fixing their problem before forking out £100+ on a new master? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr v6 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Anyone? Torqen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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