Erni902 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 (edited) Right guys, on Wednesday night I had an intermittent misfire that happened mainly in 4th 5th and 6th gears but few and far between. Car has been driven over the weekend at various speeds in all gears and has had no issues. Although I havent driven on WOT at all. Jumped on the motorway this afternoon and went to accelerate up to speed (not on WOT) probably about 50% throttle in 5th gear at around 60-65mph when she misfires a few times. I slip her into 6th and slowly accelerated and she was fine until around 78mph when it misfires again. Pulled off the motorway and accelerated away from the lights on the roundabout and she misfired badly in 1st and 2nd. Car is pretty much undriveable above 2k rpm. If under then its ok but anything over that and she coughs and sputters like mad. Any ideas what could be causing this? The plugs were changed a couple weeks ago when this first happened and seemed to help a little but obviously now the problem is back and quite bad. Whenever this happens there is no CEL or any fluctuations in any of the gauges/dials etc. RESOLUTION MISALIGNED FLYWHEEL Edited April 20, 2017 by Erni902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Check your codes. Probably a coil pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Will it log codes even if there is no CEL? Also if its a fault that only occurs with load (ie. no issue through the rev range in neutral and idles fine) then can I still do the usual coil pack disconnecting test while the engine is running to determine which one is going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 (edited) Ok so no CEL but read codes via flashy method and it seems the codes are: P0011 P0021 P0420 P0430 P0345 So it seems that my timing chain replacement has not fixed the P0011 and P0021 errors. The P0420 and P0430 are for my decats and the P0345 is the camshaft position sensor I believe? Would the Camshaft position sensor throw the P0011 and P0021 codes aswell as the P0345 code? Also how hard is it to swap this out? i.e. can I do it myself or will it be a garage job? Edited April 2, 2017 by Erni902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Right so I have now just driven 180 miles since the last post and not a single misfire. Dont think I went above 3k rpm the whole way back. Varying throttle but not WOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay84 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Yeah I agree with coil packs. If they're starting to break down internally it can be an intermittent thing until they go all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) Cheers mate. Just ordered new cam sensors from Nissan owing to the P0345 code. Will look at coil packs next. Now does the pedal dance method of retrieving codes actually show you CURRENT codes or does it simply show all the historic codes? I have no CEL illuminated as yet. At a bit of a loss if the P0011 and P0021 codes are still present after the timing chain replacement. Not sure how much money to spend on this before it becomes false economy. About £8k into the car now (including buying it) and problem is still here. Another £150 on sensors and then £360+ for coil packs. A new engine would see this rise to in excess of £10k all in and at the end of the day its only a £5k car at best. Edited April 3, 2017 by Erni902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 So thanks to SuperStu I now have an UpRev cable. Pulled the codes and confirmed all 5 I pulled above were correct. I have a replacement coil pack coming tomorrow and already have both cam position sensors (because if one has gone the other probably wont be far behind). Got my daughter now for Easter but hopefully I can distract her with the iPad long enough to fit a couple of bits to the car. Not sure where to start with the coil packs as I have only the 1 coil pack coming tomorrow so maybe have to remove the plugs and see if 1 is slightly blacker than the rest and go from there. On visual inspection of the coil packs none of them have the tell tale bulge/blister on them but obviously this doesnt mean they are good. Will have to swap 1 at a time and see if anything fixes it. Now I have the data logging capability is there any sensors I can monitor and log while I go for a drive that will show some kind of difference whent he misfire happens and give any indication as to what cylinder may be dropping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Gone to swap the Cam position sensor on Bank 1 (Driver side) dead easy but once removed I noticed the old sensor and the new sensor were completely different. I checked and apparently Zeds from 03-07 can take both part numbers. So installed the new one and she idled very high then after a couple of revs she was missing all over the place on low throttle. Connected my UpRev cable and this time P0340 was thrown up which is Camshaft position circuit malfunction. Switched the engine off and re-installed the original sensor, started revved and reset dtc codes. All is fine no missing on revving in neutral and code has gone so it looks like certainly my for my car (04 DE non-revup) part number 23731-6J90B is the sensor part number to get and NOT 23731-6J90C!! I shall be getting my money back for this one I think. Just about to swap the Bank 2 sensor (the one for which has thrown the P0345 code up. Although this is a right PITA as you can kind of feel the connector and the bolt but can't see the damn thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 (edited) Bank 2 sensor changed and what a nightmare!! Unable to get eyes on the actual sensor but managed to feel around for it, got the bolt undone and the connector removed, took about 15 minutes to get the blighter out owing to no space for leverage. Anyway new sensor installed, dtc's cleared, fired up fine, went for test drive and misfire still there, checked codes and the P0345 code is still there also. At least I know this sensor is now good and these are apparantly prone to going bad between 70-90k miles so if not now then they probably would soon anyway so for peace of minds sake its done. Next on the agenda is the coil pack. I have only got the 1 good one (well the one brand new one anyway) so no idea how to trace the bad one other than swapping one and seeing if the fault remains, if so then swap it over to another one and keep going until either the bad coil pack is found or the fault still remains and something else is the issue. Sounds like I have been fobbing you guys off above by changing the sensors and not the coil pack as suggested but I simply went with the easiest ones first. For the coil packs the intake etc needs removing. Are there any parameters I can datalog while driving that will show up the cylinder thats not firing when this occurs? If there is then it will make it much easier lol. Edited April 6, 2017 by Erni902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Swapped coil pack with the middle one on the drivers side as this was the one that seemed to be blackened with carbon type deposit.....No change, same codes, same misfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Will check back in next week once I have had the flywheel alignment checked as this could also be the cause of this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 All the best chap with the investigations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks mate, hope to god now its the Flywheel otherwise Im going to have to start thinking about potential compression issues etc. I have run a cylinder power balance test and the results across all cylinders were near as damn it the same so either there are no issues with any of the cylinders or they are all naffed 😂 Edited April 7, 2017 by Erni902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Just chucked the old girl into the garage to have the flywheel alignment checked. Hopefully find out this afternoon or tomorrow whether this is the case. Fingers crossed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erni902 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) Ok so I have just got the car back and it was confirmed that the flywheel was indeed fitted incorrectly before I bought it. Hooked the car up to Cipher and reset the ecu, drove sensibly and all seemed ok so ran the car over 3k rpm with no misfires etc. Pulled up and checked the codes again...nothing!! Set off and took it up to around 5k rpm with no issues blah blah blah. Checked codes again and nothing. All seems good again. I have a long journey to do tomorrow over various roads so will get to feel the true power of the Zed seen as its been under powered since Ive owned it! Many thanks to Mark@abbey for helping me out via email and also to the guys at Horsham that were liaising with CMC Tuning to help them diagnose. Edited April 20, 2017 by Erni902 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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