Clutch Slave Cylinder and line replacement

[GappySmeg]

Possibly a daft question... am replacing my clutch slave cylinder and flexi line... when I disconnect the old flexi line, will the hydraulic fluid **** out everywhere?

 

I don't need to drain the fluid out before unscrewing the old line do I?

 

Car is an 05 DE, so external slave.

[mr v6]

You will need the patience to correctly bleed the system. Replace the line with a braided steel one if you can, I got a HEL one from Horhsham Developments on here.

[GappySmeg]

You will need the patience to correctly bleed the system. Replace the line with a braided steel one if you can, I got a HEL one from Horhsham Developments on here.

 

Yes, that's all in hand... have new slave, shiny new braided flexi, and have read the bleed procedure from Nissan's own service manual. Oh, and a few bottles of Motul 660 to freshen with.

(Slightly annoyed it recommends NOT using a vacuum bleeder, as it means I'll have to rope the misses in to help!)

 

Anyway, question remains... will fluid whoosh out everywhere when I disconnect the old line?

I'm guessing not, but want to be prepared!

[Keyser]

You can't use a vacum bleeder as there is a non-return valve thingy on the clutch feed hard line - found behind the passenger side rear wheel liner if you want to find it.

 

Fluid will drip from the old line as soon as you loosen it - if your quick it won't run dry - if it does it's just harder to bleed.

 

Good luck with it

[GappySmeg]

You can't use a vacum bleeder as there is a non-return valve thingy on the clutch feed hard line - found behind the passenger side rear wheel liner if you want to find it.

 

Fluid will drip from the old line as soon as you loosen it - if your quick it won't run dry - if it does it's just harder to bleed.

 

Good luck with it

 

Cheers!

[scobie140]

Its a easy job if you plan it right. split and remake all your connections so you know they all come freely, crack all your bolts, clips etc. Loosely make up the new pipe and slave then try to quickly change over when ready. If you do it this way you should only loose containment for a minimum amount of time. It should save you running the master low and making bleeding a little bit easier.

 

I vacuum bled mine and roped the wife in to pump the pedal just for good measure much to her displeasure haha

Edited March 31, 2017 by scobie140

[Keyser]

I just re-read what I wrote and it could be misleading

 

The valve is behind the FRONT passenger side wheel hiden by the rear part of the 2 piece wheel arch liner - just in case someone takes the rear passenger wheel off looking for it

[GappySmeg]

Well, that was fun

 

I hadn't spotted that the flexi-line was fixed to the car with a big spring clip... sort of assumed it would come loose once I disconnected the hard line. Realised in the nick of time before too much fluid had escaped, re-tighted it up to properly have a look (topped the fluid back up to max).

That spring clip is a right pain to remove, but managed it, then swapped over the old to new flexi-lines, again without losing too much fluid.

Manage to start the bleed with the slave cylinder clamped in, as per a tutorial I found on youtube... also used the vaccuum bleeder for the initial bleed, as you're pulling a lot of fluid down to fill the new line and slave, so the traditional method would be a pain.

Regarding the valve in the line, I read that that prevents using a pressure bleeder to back-fill the system, but there's no reason for it to prevent use of a vacuum bleeder.

Regardless, I finished off the bleed the traditional way, with the help of the misses.

 

All seems good, but haven't been for a drive yet as doing more jobs to the car.