Guest Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Hey there ladies and gents =D I'm looking for a set of coilovers, but I have very little knowledge. Performance is the most important aspect, with a modest drop being secondary. The car is my daily, with designs on tracking for fun. First, if I proceed with this, are there any secondary parts / considerations I need to factor in to the equation? I read somewhere on the forum that something needs strengthening at the rear, and that I may need some additional components? My other question is, any thoughts on what to go for? What is popular with other folks? =) My budget is semi flexible - it's around £1000-1200 unless there's something supremely good for a bit more, in which case my OCD demands I get the shinyshiny =D Thank you for your thoughts, opinions, and knowledge =) Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 You may need camber control arms depending on how low you go, I would say kw's if thats your budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I'd like to drop it rather than slam it, not a huge fan of super low. Not heard of KW, are they OK? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 The 350 has very ltd camber control, so even with 25mm drop you will probably need them. Kw are highly regarded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I went with Meister R gt1, kw v3 were my intention but Im very happy with the choice I made. Have a look through the forum,always lots of conflicting ideas just take your time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I suppose another question is, do you want a true coilover or happy to keep the inboard spring design. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I had a look through the suspension forums but didn't see too much, although I did see something about the Meisters ^_^ I will look at the KWs too. In answer to the true coilover question, I don't know, what's the difference? I'd prefer to go with the superior setup whatever that may be =) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Depends what you want to do ultimately. There really isn't any 'best' as it totally depends on you, how you drive and what you'd like to get from them I didn't want 'true' coilovers as I don't want to strengthen the strut towers, plus you have to purchase arms to replace the spring buckets. More faffing around. Largely others haven't done the welding but I would really want to if taking it to the track, for the road yeah I'm sure it's all cool. If you're searching, copy and paste this if using Chrome: site:350z-uk.com track coilovers (and change the search term to whatever you need) A word of warning...once you start messing with the suspension, it's a slippery slope to spending way more than you initially thought (especially if you're doing track days) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Using tapatalk, and the search seems shite 😂 So from your post I'm assuming the Meisters aren't what you would class as true coilovers? What is the difference? =) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Coilover = coil (spring) over damper, or what the 350 has at the front. Rear is seperate spring and damper. Coilover technically better, but honestly not worth the hassle to change on the Zed unless you're at the extreme end of modding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I think it's something to do with the spring and damper acting along the same axis on true coil overs whereas in the 350 set up there will be some induced bending stress in the bit that's between the axis of the spring and the axis of the damper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Ah ok, think I get it, wonder why they made that design decision? So for full coilovers, reinforcement would be better, and other parts would need replacing? And the difference in performance is minimal? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Just thought it should be asked to clear up any confusion if a true coilover was what you wanted, the 350z handles perfectly fine with the inboard spring design so imho, if its not broke, dont fix it. The question is asked a fair bit and usually the first question is whats the budget, being your budget is into premium coilovers i wouldnt be looking past kw's, i have never heard a bad word said about them, do a general google kw search and have a read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Cool. So the way I tell if it's full coilover or partial is if the springs for the rear aren't pictured around the shock in any images I see? And I will need new arms at the rear for a drop above 20mm? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I would get the camber arms as it gives you more adjustment when it comes to geo. Yes basically, but just be careful as some images will be generic/library photos when your looking at ads, usually though it says in the description, best just to ask if your unsure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) KW yes. Type 1 if you don't want to fiddle with them. Trouble with adjustable stuff is you are forever fiddling with it - I chose to trust the manufacturer and thought they were bang on for road use. I was 25mm lower but got sick of losing the flexis on bumps so went to 15mm drop instead. Easy to do as the KW hight is adjustable, even if the shocks aren't. Edited March 4, 2017 by Toon Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeisterR Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) From a suspension design point of view, if this is a fast road & track car, I will ALWAYS stick with the OEM inboard springs rear setup. The reason is that there are anti-squat property build into the OEM suspension, something you want to keep. Also, keeping springs in the OEM location mean you do not have to worry about force being send to places that it wasn't design to go. You don't have to worry about the turret that weren't design to hold the weight of the car. This is not an issue for race car because the turret normally are reinforced by a roll cage anyways. So for a fast road car, stick with the OEM design. You will get better performance and less headache from it. Here is a picture of the separate rear of the GT1 just to help illustrate. Jerrick Edited March 4, 2017 by MeisterR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Thanks for the info Jerrick, it sounds as though I would be better off sticking with the OEM design =) Now I need to research what's going to be best! Plus look into costs of front & rear camber arms =) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Unless you found a crazy good deal or used set, don't bother with true coilovers, it's not going to make a jot of difference. Unlike good tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I'll wear out the ones it came with before splashing on new tyres, I want new rims at some stage anyway so I'll have no choice =) so are KW and Meister the 2 I should really be looking at? I hear Tein mentioned a lot by various people but I don't know what their reputation is like =) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Tein are very good, but you have to spend the money, i had a set of control master flex on one of my Rx7s and it was a very compliant set up both on road and track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 On the flip side, I don't like Teins at all on UK roads. Far too hard regardless of what you do to them, they always seem to be oversprung and underdamped. Great for smooth Japanese roads, not so helpful for our crappy B-roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I don't mind a firm ride (hah!), I just guess it depends on quite how bad they are! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Just check what spring rates they come with, I am sure they are not any different to the majority, but the less expensive ones are quite crashy, so maybe that was Ekonas experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Spring rates? Something else to research 😄 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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