Adrian@TORQEN Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Still have Pagid RS29 on my GTR, noisy as hell in traffic, squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeky to the point you fill you drive a tractor to Central London Once they're hot, they're good pads, but it takes a while to perform properly. The dust is also a big down side, wheels are always brown within minutes of spirited driving. For mainly a daily and with only 1-2 track days a year, stay away from RS29. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) http://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-pads http://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-discs am i missing something here ? Edited February 28, 2017 by gsexr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 http://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-pads am i missing something here ? This? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 I'd go for StopTech discs - slotted, Hawk pads, StopTech lines and Motul RBF 660 fluid. You don't sound like you're a very heavy track user, this will do the work just fine Im sorry but I dont think this is fair or reasonable, a trader shouldnt be able to promote his own stuff as " friendly forum recommendation". To then go on and claim that Pagid RS29's are no good as street pads (which is crap, they are fine from cold and dont make any noise) is totally unreasonable. Apologies Adrian, I know youve got a business to run but this is hardly impartial advice, is it? Ive used RS29, 2 types of Carbon Lorraine, Project Mu, and Carbotechs all in the last 2 years and for me, a 350Z on standard discs with braided hoses and CL RC5+ is as good as anything Ive ever used - no squeaking, worked fine from cold and hot stopping power was awesome, the RS29 and Carbotechs are very close behind and I know Performance Friction are highly thought of too. I currently have CL06 on my BMW which are dusty, noisy but for sheer performance on and off track are amazing. Chances are you dont actually need any discs either but Im getting fed up of banging that particular drum ......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 I was just trying to write something along the same lines but you put it better than I could. This post was started because of a trader with little knowledge and a lot to sell. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 I'd go for StopTech discs - slotted, Hawk pads, StopTech lines and Motul RBF 660 fluid. You don't sound like you're a very heavy track user, this will do the work just fine Im sorry but I dont think this is fair or reasonable, a trader shouldnt be able to promote his own stuff as " friendly forum recommendation". To then go on and claim that Pagid RS29's are no good as street pads (which is crap, they are fine from cold and dont make any noise) is totally unreasonable. Apologies Adrian, I know youve got a business to run but this is hardly impartial advice, is it? Ive used RS29, 2 types of Carbon Lorraine, Project Mu, and Carbotechs all in the last 2 years and for me, a 350Z on standard discs with braided hoses and CL RC5+ is as good as anything Ive ever used - no squeaking, worked fine from cold and hot stopping power was awesome, the RS29 and Carbotechs are very close behind and I know Performance Friction are highly thought of too. I currently have CL06 on my BMW which are dusty, noisy but for sheer performance on and off track are amazing. Chances are you dont actually need any discs either but Im getting fed up of banging that particular drum ......... There's a broad range of opinion and I try to take it all on board, plus I do my own independent research to verify =) It's good to hear about different peoples experiences and viewpoints, even the traders, I don't imagine they would be stocking them if they didn't think they were decent =) As for discs, I'm guessing something is either warped or suffering from thickness variation as I am getting noise and pulsing when braking, so whilst I'd like to not spend an extra 500-700 on discs (I'd rather upgrade suspension first) I think it is necessary to start getting the car up to the standard I want while I need to change them anyway, and to get rid of annoying noises =) Perhaps I can do both the brakes and the suspension and just hammer the credit card 😂 It's interesting to hear regarding the CL pads on standard discs. I'm finding it a struggle to find prices on most of the more specialist brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) On the 350z I've used: Yellow Stuff DS2500 CL RC5+ (current pads) All on standard discs but had them Skimmed by Marcus, Hostechnik lines and TYP200 fluid. I've only just briefly used the RC5+ on track but they get used on the road 90% of the time. They are very noisy when not bedded in, which is due to being stuck in London a lot of the time. They are probably dusty but I don't know as my wheels are Plastidipped in matte gun metal, so I don't bother cleaning them. The stopping power is immense and feel is the best I've tried so far. I didn't like the DS2500's, when they got hot the drop off in stopping power was instantly noticeable, which coincides with their temp graph anyway, others like them but I don't, they felt mushy as well - note normal discs, not grooved etc The Yellow Stuff felt nicer than the DS2500's and didn't have a sharp drop off in stopping power when hot. For the price, they are fine for DD. If you're getting pulsing/noise - just bed them in (look at the sticky post for that) first to see if it's not just that. Whip the wheels off, get a small wire brush and ensure that all mating surfaces are clean, including the rear of your wheels. Edited March 1, 2017 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Shouldn't be the bedding in process if they're old discs / pads? It's become worse since I got it in Jan, admittedly not until I took the front wheels off and put them back on. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 There's a broad range of opinion and I try to take it all on board, plus I do my own independent research to verify =) It's good to hear about different peoples experiences and viewpoints, even the traders, I don't imagine they would be stocking them if they didn't think they were decent =) Fair play mate, thats easily the best way to do it and Ive just done exactly the same on coilovers despite having run probably 10+ manufacturers over as many years. I have a problem with traders giving advice on "the best" stuff though, as they are not going to be recommending other peoples products and their advice is generally anything but impartial. Your own first post proves this, anyone who has used a variety of brakes will tend to steer clear of EBC and yet a qualified professional is telling you thats the way forward. As for discs, I'm guessing something is either warped or suffering from thickness variation as I am getting noise and pulsing when braking, so whilst I'd like to not spend an extra 500-700 on discs *gets drum out* Discs dont warp, they can sometime have buildup of material on the friction surface. A fierce session with decent pads can sort this, alternatively there is a trader on here that can offer a disc skimming service, Id go these routes before swapping out quality hardware. It's interesting to hear regarding the CL pads on standard discs. I'm finding it a struggle to find prices on most of the more specialist brands. I did 2-3 trackdays and probably 10K on them IIRC, no problems at all. That said Ive just chewed throuygh a set of pattern discs on my 135i in less than a year with the CL6, only one trackday and similar miles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) Shouldn't be the bedding in process if they're old discs / pads? It's become worse since I got it in Jan, admittedly not until I took the front wheels off and put them back on. Nope, do it regularly depending on pad material. More aggressive pads like the ones I'm on don't really like the DD driving, thus the transfer layer gets wiped off and needs to be plopped on again. Plus it's free to try it. Note - I didn't say it's what your problem IS, just that it's the quickest easiest thing to try out FIRST Edited March 1, 2017 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Cool, thx for the recommendation, I'll give that a try before replacing everything =D In the name of research, can anybody who has used CL pads let me know where they were able to buy them? I can't find pricing to compare with others =) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) I got my ones from Driftworks. (doesn't look like they do them anymore??? - I notice that lot's of stuff isn't sold by them now) https://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/race-brake-pads/nissan/nissan-350-z-cl-brakes-race-brake-pads-2002-09.html Double check that's the correct fitting. Edited March 1, 2017 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 That looks correct, thanks for the link. And ouch! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 http://www.clbraking.co.uk/ for me, DW didnt stock the sizes I needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 (edited) They are pricey but right for this level of pads, I've wasted £00's on pads that came highly rated only to be used for 5 mins on a track and then thrown away. I've got no experience with CL pads, whats the modulation and pedal feel like with those? As this is another area that I've always really rated the Pagids If you wanted to try anything Pagid or Performance Friction give Alyn a call at http://asptrading.co.uk/ I think (and say if I'm wrong Rob) the point about re bedding in pads is that if its doing a load of low speed daily commute type driving pads like these can glaze up so taking it for a quick blast and carrying out a few big stops say 80-20 a couple of times gets them back to their best again. Also the point regarding the DS2500 pads is exactly what I found too, they just can't take the heat of track work and fall off very quickly and I even had material transfer on to my discs with them which gave me the worst vibration under braking I've ever had so best to stay away from these unless road use only Edited March 2, 2017 by 350Butcher 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 (edited) Pedal feel and modulation are as good, if not better than lesser stuff. Ive never had brand new RS29's but the Carbotechs and both CL's I felt were better in every respect (other than noise and dust), Id say the RC5's are better than the CL6 for feel and both the CL's very, very slightly edge the Carbo's for ultimate performance. Ian is the man at Carbotech, http://www.carbotech-europe.com/ hes very helpful and makes pads to order - tell him docwra sent you, he might be surprised Edited March 2, 2017 by docwra 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0bj0sh Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 I've just fitted blue stuff to the front of mine are they are brilliant! Love them! Nothing wrong with ebc as long as you choose the right pads for the usage Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Shouldn't be the bedding in process if they're old discs / pads? It's become worse since I got it in Jan, admittedly not until I took the front wheels off and put them back on. Nope, do it regularly depending on pad material. More aggressive pads like the ones I'm on don't really like the DD driving, thus the transfer layer gets wiped off and needs to be plopped on again. Plus it's free to try it. Note - I didn't say it's what your problem IS, just that it's the quickest easiest thing to try out FIRST Just tried this, think I ended up transferring pad to a different disc and not helping the existing pulsing 😂 new stuff required in short order! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 If you still want CL pads give Mitz a call at Cougarstore. Just booked my zed in for some work beginning of next month inc new CL6 pads and he got hold of some straight away for me although he said it is usually 4-5 weeks. Worth a phonecall though, you could have them within a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Cheers dude, may just do that! =) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Before Docwra has a meltdown, id like to jump on his drum set by saying its a possibility that you have padd transference, which is a build up of residue from padd to disk, typically from sitting with your foot on the brake after coming to a stop. Ive had this recently and suffered an audible clonk under braking and pulsing through the pedal. The car had recently been in the garage so I think they took it out for a "roadtest" and gave it a kicking I took all padds out and roughed up the faces and disk with sandpaper, before cleaning it all with brake cleaner. Once reassembled and under advice from Ekona, I went on to do rebedding in, which went something like this 5 x 50-30mph light stops 5 x 50-0mph medium stops And on a private road obviously 5 x 100-0mph hard without ABS stops This cured my problem albeit with a stack load of dust after the run! To warp a disk you have to be going like bat out hell. For the sake of the thread I have MTEC drilled and grooved disks with normal Brembo padds, HELL braided lines and dot 5.1 blue fluid. Squeaky around town but stop very well and when hot even better 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) I've got an Infiniti FX which weighs as much as a small yacht and is based on the 370z chassis, including brakes. Thats a lot of strain on the disks and pads Infiniti front disks - pulsing after 6-8K. Problem starts off slow and eventually gets so bad that there is a shuddering thought the front wheels and i have to swap the disks out. I am meticulous not to sit with the brakes applied at junctions. Cheap off the shelf no-names - pulsing again after 4-6K EBC slotted - pulsing after 6-8K DBA T2 - 12K so far and no problems at all. I don't want to slag EBC too much as I have used them on my 350z without problems although the DS2500 pads wore through them quite quickly. Oh, and the Infiniti uses EBC green-stuff pads with no bothers at all. They behave very well. Go figure! as the yanks say. Edited March 4, 2017 by Toon Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I took all padds out and roughed up the faces and disk with sandpaper, before cleaning it all with brake cleaner. Once reassembled and under advice from Ekona, I went on to do rebedding in, which went something like this 5 x 50-30mph light stops 5 x 50-0mph medium stops And on a private road obviously 5 x 100-0mph hard without ABS stops Good memory, close! 5x 50-30 light 5x 70-40 med 5x 100-40 hard And with 5mins motorway speed driving without braking in between each set to let let cool off. Speeds are only a guide though, just do whatever you feel comfortable with (so maybe 80-40 for the last set, but do an extra one to get the heat up). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Think I'll have to stay up pretty late to try again 😄 I think tbh I'm better off upgrading from stock anyway, might just deal with the pulsing until new parts come through. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 (edited) That brake fade with ds2500 - do you mean a soft brake pedal after a few hard laps / sessions? I get that quite often now and I thought it was air in the system or a bad master cylinder. Braking power is ok but only from like half way down of the pedal travel unles I pump it up properly with my left foot before a turn. Everything is back to normal after a track day, pedal is stiff again. Is it becasue of those ds2500 pads?! Edited May 26, 2017 by GodISmE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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