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Steering Wheel Cover?


Strudul

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I admire your optimism and self-belief. :) That said, retrimming a steering wheel involves so much more than just knocking up a cover and buying some thread!

 

I do this work for a living and it's not easy by any means. Should be interesting to see the end result. ;)

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I admire your optimism and self-belief. :) That said, retrimming a steering wheel involves so much more than just knocking up a cover and buying some thread!

 

I do this work for a living and it's not easy by any means. Should be interesting to see the end result. ;)

Care to divulge any of the obstacles to look out for? :)

 

I think the biggest problem will be getting the material the right shape / size so that it stretches perfectly, isn't loose, and doesn't bunch up.

 

Also not sure how to pad it. Was hoping to just get some 6mm high density foam, stitch the leather to that (back stitch?), then Euro stitch it all together. Dunno if you can stitch the foam directly to leather though or whether I need to just stick it on with that magic-hem-web-tape stuff.

 

As for leather vs pleather, any recommendations? (Quality / ease to work with / stretchiness.)

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I had a good look at Payco's car after leather work was done on lots of the interior and the quality was exceptional. If you are anything like me, the tiniest of issues would drive me to distraction. Paycos car was perfect, utterly perfect inside with the seats and everything else done. Again not doubting your handiwork but if you can get to within 25% of the finish of that with some ebay/first effort I think you will have done very well.

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No obligation to share, but can't harm to ask... I'd have thought any textiles shop would be able to provide recommendations / advice with regards to materials if I were to go and ask. Similarly there are probably dedicated forums with people willing to share.

 

Not asking for trade secrets or a step-by-step guide. There is a big difference between knowing how to do something (or the materials to use) and having the ability to do it. Take vinyl wrapping, even with the best wrap, tools and a detailed guide (which are easy to find), there's no way I'd manage to do a professional job without a lot of practice, hence most people don't DIY.

 

Or using the KFC example, the list of ingredients is freely available on the internet, the secret is the ratios.

 

On the flip side, if you can convince me it's too hard to attempt, then there is a potential customer up for grabs.

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Ok, for starters: 6mm foam is too thick. Your wheel will feel like a big, round marshmallow and will more than likely struggle to keep a uniform shape when everything's stretched into place.

 

And you will need to stretch it to get anything like a decent finish! If you don't need to stretch the cover severely to fit it, then you've made it completely wrong. ;)

 

As for leather versus pleather: your wheel is a seriously high-traffic item. It gets passed through your hands countless times and that means that synthetic leather will wear very quickly indeed. I can't advise you against pleather enough!

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Thanks for the advice, really appreciate it.

 

Foam - From my research, initially I thought the same, but having tried some 3mm scrim foam samples, I could barely tell any difference compared to no foam, it just squished into nothing. It didn't feel like those nice squishy (but firm) wheels you get on modern Mercs. Maybe it was just crap foam? I know any foam will make avoiding bunching much harder, but it wouldn't be fun if it wasn't a challange ;)

 

That being said, the foam Redline uses seems quite thick?

 

Stretching - Yeah, from playing with bits of material I'm getting an idea of what is required. Plain patterns look fine when stretched, but the perforated stuff just became so distorted and looks crap. Though being thin pleather, I think the material is the cause of the problem again. Will have to get some decent real leather and have another play.

 

Pleather - My reason for not going Alcantara was just that reason. Would be silly to get pleather instead then :lol:

 

Thanks again, really admire your work and some pro insight really helps :thumbs:

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Plan is to machine stitch up the edge of the material, which should give a very tidy, even stitch. Then, from my understanding, it's just a case of weaving the thread between the stitches, almost like lacing up your shoes.

 

As seen here:

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If you plan to do Euro stitching, the entire cover has to be glued into place absolutely everywhere first. That style of stitching is purely decorative and, if you exert pressure by trying to pull the two edges together (to remove a gap between them, for example), you'll either snap the thread or tear the machine stitching through the cover material.

 

I'm personally not a fan of Euro stitching. It looks good in a straight line but I think it looks untidy when it has to go round a curve. This is because the machine stitching is a uniform length throughout, rather than becoming smaller on the shorter edge of a curve, so the loops in the joining thread don't decrease in size accordingly.

 

All down to personal preference though.

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Those are the words of a professional.

 

Who knew there were kinds of stitching.

 

Us professionals have our favoured techniques. I know Jack favours Euro stitching on all of his wheels and that style is less labour-intensive than the "X-design" that I prefer to use.

 

Euro is more elaborate and eye-catching but, as I said, I personally feel it stops looking as nice when any kind of curve is involved.

 

My style is simpler (but takes longer to do) and, because it's all done by hand, I can vary the stitch size on a curve so it keeps a neat and uniform appearance.

 

Again, it's all down to personal choice. I have used Euro stitch (and baseball stitch) in the past but I always come back to the X-stitch based solely on the finished look of a wheel, gearknob or handbrake grip.

 

:thumbs:

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